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Bead Roller Stand

Your bead roller ins a very nice piece of kit!! well done! ;)

I have one Snap-On tool I bought new - right off the truck. I needed a very thin walled (approx 16mm) socket for doing bicycle chainsets; and the soft, crappy, and unusable one from the manufacturer was 47$ US. So I went and paid 50$ for a Snap-On one off the truck. Yes 50$ for one socket. They are nice tools, but I prefer buying them at garage sales. :mad:
 
On the topic of rulers; my 12" Mitutoyo flexible ruler was 27$, my 6" X 1" Mitutoyo ruler was over 17$. Not stupid to buy though. They are easy to read and with the very black thin lines I can read accurately to .010 with just the rulers. Saves time, and they are a joy to use.

At that price, they are a 'cheap luxury'.
 
Well I know whom I may have to ask for a hand in this project
 

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Really nice. Thanks.

For the record I have zero talent for this kind of stuff. I wish I did, but I don't. I am trying to learn, but to date most of my work is structural...just making panels stronger with beads, etc. Nor do I work with AL or have the dies for that. One day maybe...but like most of you I have a hundred projects ahead of me I have to get done before I can devote more time to this fun stuff.
 
I've been looking into purchasing a bead roller to use along with my english wheel for shaping metal. The thinnest metal I use is about 18 gauge steel, which model would be best for doing a large variety of work including artwork rather than standard panel strengthening?
 
Chris Cramer said:
I've been looking into purchasing a bead roller to use along with my english wheel for shaping metal. The thinnest metal I use is about 18 gauge steel, which model would be best for doing a large variety of work including artwork rather than standard panel strengthening?
Click to expand...
Hey Chris, the thinnest you use is 18 gauge? Do you mean thickest? High end bead rollers typically max out at 16 gauge. Beyond that you're looking at some HD rotary machines, which aren't much good for artwork IMHO due to the limited throat depth (which is kind of the opposite of what you need for artwork).

If you're using an English wheel already you know how the shape of the metal increases its strength. I was amazed when I got my first bead roller how flimsy 22 or 24 gauge suddenly had the strength of much thicker metal once you run some beads through it. Then I read up on the history of the machines and how adding those beads to bomber seats during WWII was instrumental in saving weight. I guess what I am saying is, if you think you need to bead roll 16 gauge you might be surprized to discover you actually can use much thinner sheet than this to achieve what you want. My apologies if you already know this; but I was shocked 20 years ago even learning this on a hand bead roller—never mind the power one I have now. It was a long time ago but I still recall using thinner and thinner material and still getting great results.

Having said this, first ask yourself if you will be working alone. If yes (and especially for artwork), a manual bead roller is out of the question because you need both hands working the sheet. For artwork you'll want at least a 24" throat depth, and you can't handle the material and crank by yourself on that type of machine. On the shorter manual ones you can, but they are really just for running a flange or edge bead for a car panel with a buddy...not much else.

So assuming you are talking power bead roller, here's what I would consider for artwork and maybe some panel work:
  • Make sure BOTH rollers are driven (some cheap ones drive only one roller)
  • 24" throat min., or 36" depending on your needs and space (they do take up space)
  • At least one roller should allow you to adjust the die spacing. This gives you the most flexibility to design your own bead patterns and either adjust the offset on the die(s) to create new patterns or even machine your own dies. Some machines you just use washers or spacers; others are threaded and you adjust the die(s) that way.
  • A table is a must for artwork to steady your hands and arms. A lot of guys build their own.
  • I think splined drives are unnecessary, but some guys like them. IMHO if you're driving your machine so hard that the dies are slipping, you're trying to do too much in one pass. Spline drives are necessary on a lot of rotary machines that routinely do thicker gauges, but for 16 gauge or less you don't need them.
  • Quick change drives are nice, but expensive and probably wasted unless you use the machine all day long.
  • A variable speed motor with a variable speed foot petal (like a TIG welder) is best for artwork. Some motors are VS, but the petal is only OFF/ON. That's fine and works pretty well, but just be aware whether this is a deal breaker for you personally.
  • Motor s/b reversible—especially for doing artwork.
  • Look for a machine that accepts dies from multiple companies if possible. Some companies, like Mittler Bros., even have licensing agreements with competitors like Lazze and cross-manufacture die patterns.
  • Give some thought to where you're going to put it and make or buy an adjustable stand. For artwork you'll want to sit at it; but for panel work you'll want to stand up. If you make your own and put it on casters, make sure at least two of them are lockable as there is some lateral force on the machine and you don't want it to move.
  • There are lots of great learning videos on YouTube including tips on which dies are essential for everyday use vs. artwork. I'm happy to share my playlist with you if you want. I spent months researching this stuff. Same is true if you want to talk brands.
Lastly, it took me months to figure out a way to transfer patterns I found on the internet to metal so I could bead roll them. You may know this stuff already, but if not I'm happy to save you time and share how I do this if you want.

Best of luck. Let me know if I can help :)
 
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