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Tips/Techniques Another way to make a surface grinder balancing ring

Tips/Techniques
Here are some close ups.

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View attachment 39662


But.........





You are absolutely right!

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I am learning not to like Carbide. They are constantly breaking on me.

I can't even see a broken edge when I'm staring at it. My eyes have divorced me.

I might have to hire you to keep an eye on my inserts for me......

Great catch Peter! I would never have known till it blew up on me!
This is where technology shines in my eyes, I often take a picture of things I can't see well, and blow it up until I can see it.....
 
My understanding is that screws need to be added to the 17 threaded holes. How do I know how much weight of screws to use in the hole?

I think the difficulty of adjusting the balance is that there are only 17 position points and you need to use different weights of screws. Therefore, it is difficult to quickly adjust the balance of the grinding wheel. In other words: It is very difficult to adjust the static balance very accurately!

Maybe there is something wrong with my understanding of the use method. I think the sliding steel ball is more convenient to use. I will make a steel ball version of the flange for test in the near future.

I can't wait to see the video of Daddy SUS's balance!
You only put one 3/8" set screw at a time.

To start, you put the wheel with the adapter on the balancing rig without the balancing ring. Determine where the heavy spot of the wheel is, which will be at the bottom once the wheel comes to a stop. Put a pencil mark at the heavy spot.

Now install the balancing ring, with the securing set screw to the opposite end of the heavy spot. Put it back on the balancing rig, and again determine the heavy spot, put a set screw in the opposite end. Continue until the wheel doesn't stop at the same position. You can fine tune it with shorter set screws if necessary.
 
A piece of lead under a short set screw may help with "difficult" to balance stones, just remember it may need to be removed one day.
 
Very nice work!! (Maybe a video of doing the static balancing? This might help @a smile out a bit...

I can't wait to see the video of Daddy SUS's balance!

Ok, you asked for a video. I dunno how @a smile can get a translation though. Lord only knows what the internet will do to my voice in Chinese....... :oops:

Making and publishing a YouTube Video was definitely one level worse for me than watching someone else's video.

A few introductory remarks:

I have never done a video myself before. I don't have anyway to record a video other than my phone, and I don't have a tripod mount for my phone.

I can't record video and make changes simultaneously.

The setup in the video is just two ground bars sitting on two blocks I made for another purpose that I will show everyone someday in the future. I don't have 4 small V-blocks to set them on so I just put the rods right on the blocks and used a 1/16 flat washer to hold the rod and stop it from rolling. With that, here you go. Sound up.

 
WOW - for a YouTube hater that was impressive that you contributed to the YouTube world. You are now a full fledged YouTuber.
Amazing that you did that and hung it out for everyone to see forever.

PS - the content was good too. I watched other videos to try and learn what in the H is a surface grinder balance ring. Your shot at it did it in short order.
So to be a really successful YouTube participant you’re gonna have to learn how to add tons of BS and useless stuff.
 
So to be a really successful YouTube participant you’re gonna have to learn how to add tons of BS and useless stuff.

A very long time ago I figured out that I'd never be good at anything if I tried to be good at everything. There are already way too many things on my plate that I want to be good at. So I have zero interest in being a good YouTuber. But I do want to be a better machinist. And I also want to help other people be better machinists too because I believe that helping each other makes all of us better than we could ever be on our own.
 
Ok, you asked for a video. I dunno how @a smile can get a translation though. Lord only knows what the internet will do to my voice in Chinese....... :oops:

Making and publishing a YouTube Video was definitely one level worse for me than watching someone else's video.

A few introductory remarks:

I have never done a video myself before. I don't have anyway to record a video other than my phone, and I don't have a tripod mount for my phone.

I can't record video and make changes simultaneously.

The setup in the video is just two ground bars sitting on two blocks I made for another purpose that I will show everyone someday in the future. I don't have 4 small V-blocks to set them on so I just put the rods right on the blocks and used a 1/16 flat washer to hold the rod and stop it from rolling. With that, here you go. Sound up.

I watched your video carefully and realized that it was not as difficult to balance as I thought. Because I had overlooked the point at which the missing weight was always vertically upward, I had made an elementary mistake.

Your voice is a little young. My voice should be older. I listen to your voice and then watch your video while watching subtitles translated into Chinese, with no obstacles at all. This is due to watching many Hollywood movies with Chinese subtitles in the early years. Let me watch the video with subtitles.

Thank you for your teaching!
 
@thestelster

I was thinking in my sleep last night and @a smile's comments made me realize that there is a little shortcut possible on the ring.

It's unlikely that the bottom half holes will ever be used. So they could be drilled to the pitch diameter of the thread so they have the same weight as a threaded hole and left untapped.

The other thing is that first spin change. I was a bit surprised by that. I confess that it took me off gaurd. I don't know if my surprise showed in the video. Anyway, I think it would be better to re-index the keeper screw after installing it half way between the empty location and the first resting position so that it really is at the low weight balance point, instead of starting clockwise a bit.

I also bought 4 small V-blocks on Kijiji. They were even cheaper than making them. They will also improve the balance functionality.

Next up is to try the epoxy counterbalance method. I won't be doing a video! LOL!
 
It's unlikely that the bottom half holes will ever be used. So they could be drilled to the pitch diameter of the thread so they have the same weight as a threaded hole and left untapped.
Possibly, but I think your wheel was very unbalanced. But in a more ballanced wheel, you might need, for example: 3 screws at 12 o'clock, 2 screws at 6 o'clock, and 1 screw at 2 o'clock.

Great video by the way!
 
wondering why not put all 18 holes on the outer diameter?
I'm with you on that notion, not that Susq build wont work, it just seems to me that your idea would be easier to balance accurately.
My theory of your outside edge holes is that longer screws could be set to change the center of gravity away from the center-line. This would allow for a changeable weight ratio the farther your screw protruded from the balance ring. basically the depth of screw engagement with the ring should allow for a much more accurate/easier balance using just one screw because it would have an infinite setting within its own length.
 
I'm with you on that notion, not that Susq build wont work, it just seems to me that your idea would be easier to balance accurately.
My theory of your outside edge holes is that longer screws could be set to change the center of gravity away from the center-line. This would allow for a changeable weight ratio the farther your screw protruded from the balance ring. basically the depth of screw engagement with the ring should allow for a much more accurate/easier balance using just one screw because it would have an infinite setting within its own length.

To be clear up front, I'm not saying this idea won't work.

But I do think it increases the odds of a screw coming loose and flying across the shop. As is, the retention screw needs some form of thread locker (prolly blue loctite) while the balance screws just need a bit of sealer or adhesive. Radial screws would need locker on all of them.

I agree that the big advantage is longer heavier screws.

A while back I had a wheel with much worse imbalance. The ring would be insufficient to balance it. But I think @thestelster correctly recommended against that. Any wheel that is that badly out of balance should probably be set aside and not used at all.
 
I think so. I'm not sure if there is room. They would also add weight - mostly a good thing I think.

Two more ways to deal with locking the screws: 1) self locking screws and 2) wicking Loctite.

If I recall 290 is made for pre-assembled fasteners and fasteners can be bought with a pre-applied patch of Loctite or an embedded strip of nylon. Yup, McMaster has them in small quantities and Spae-Naur also lists them.

For weight adjustment you could drop some lead shot in the hole too rather than a different length screw.

Pro tip: Some Loctite can be used without primer but some grades benefit from it. My favourite small fastener Loctite 222 works better with some Primer T.

Nice video BTW, funny how the voice is never what you expect. You didn’t use the synthesized voice feature did you? ;)

D :cool:
 
You didn’t use the synthesized voice feature did you? ;)
laugh.webp
 
To be clear up front, I'm not saying this idea won't work.

But I do think it increases the odds of a screw coming loose and flying across the shop. As is, the retention screw needs some form of thread locker (prolly blue loctite) while the balance screws just need a bit of sealer or adhesive. Radial screws would need locker on all of them.

I agree that the big advantage is longer heavier screws.

A while back I had a wheel with much worse imbalance. The ring would be insufficient to balance it. But I think @thestelster correctly recommended against that. Any wheel that is that badly out of balance should probably be set aside and not used at all.
Some very interesting conversation going on here. I am not sure you would need Loctite or sealer to hold them. As long as the screw is tight and the wheel is balanced it should not come loose. I can't remember the last time I had a set screw come loose on a pulley. On the other hand for peace of mind and safety it can't hurt. Besides how often would you need to change this? A wheel lasts me several years.
 
Some very interesting conversation going on here. I am not sure you would need Loctite or sealer to hold them. As long as the screw is tight and the wheel is balanced it should not come loose. I can't remember the last time I had a set screw come loose on a pulley. On the other hand for peace of mind and safety it can't hurt. Besides how often would you need to change this? A wheel lasts me several years.

Hmmmm - A very good point.

I was assuming that you would not seat the screws. You can't seat the screws in the axial design because they would push the ring off of the hub. So the only screw that gets seated is the keeper screw. In the radial design, that would not be applicable. Maybe they would interfere though.... If not, they would certainly improve retention of the ring!

Yup, a very good point.
 
Hmmmm - A very good point.

I was assuming that you would not seat the screws. You can't seat the screws in the axial design because they would push the ring off of the hub. So the only screw that gets seated is the keeper screw. In the radial design, that would not be applicable. Maybe they would interfere though.... If not, they would certainly improve retention of the ring!

Yup, a very good point.
I didn't realize that the holes were drilled all the way through. For some reason I thought they were blind holes. Why not use tapered machine screws?
 
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