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Tool Another DIY made shop tool

Tool
The solenoid looks to be 24 volts AC, 10 amps max. This solenoid is normally closed, power to it will open it. (If it works)
The motor can be wired 110 volts or 208-230 volts, by the sticker on the reservoir it is presently wired 240 volts(230).
 
Well, with that insight, using the solenoid is out. Next question is, is there a way to run this unit on a manual valve instead?
 
KeeponDragon said:
Well, with that insight, using the solenoid is out. Next question is, is there a way to run this unit on a manual valve instead?
Click to expand...

I got all caught up doing other things but more or less concluded that trying to save all that crap was hopeless.

Absolutely you can. Since your cylinder is double acting, as far as I know, it is all just a simple SCV setup to give you proportional control. If you don't have the parts, they are inexpensive at Princess Auto.

The hydraulics guys there will also give you advice on how to use their stuff.
 
I don't see the main solenoid valve A in the hydraulic schematic at the top of the page.
1699130309620724123905721974440-jpg.39712
 
It's in the hydraulic power unit block drawing, its called SV2, as per middle left discerption. The hydraulic power unit block is what is there, has the 3 gold colored 90 degree fittings on it, in the real pictures.
 
So if I'm understanding things at the base level.
1. Pull the SV2 valve and plug the hole
2. Run the pressure side to the valve from "lip extend port", or the "manifold port A" ?
3.the return from the valve would go through "Return Port" under the sequence valve.
4. Cap off the main and lip cylinder retract port.
5. Fill with oil
6. Offer sacrifice to diety of choice
7. Get clear of the thing and any line of sight of the hose connections
8. Flip the breaker
 
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