What is it Dave? A cheese slicer?
-
Scam Alert. Members are reminded to NOT send money to buy anything. Don't buy things remote and have it shipped - go get it yourself, pay in person, and take your equipment with you. Scammers have burned people on this forum. Urgency, secrecy, excuses, selling for friend, newish members, FUD, are RED FLAGS. A video conference call is not adequate assurance. Face to face interactions are required. Please report suspicions to the forum admins. Stay Safe - anyone can get scammed.
3D Printing Tips and Tricks
- Thread starter DavidR8
- Start date
What is it Dave? A cheese slicer?
It's for Pringle's, slide it in on the top side of the can, rotate it 180 degrees and all the chips are on their own little tray
How did you get to cheese slicer from Pringle's? 😛
Cheese slicer 😀
I see.
It didn't say Pringles and looked like cheese. What else can I say. It's obvious now that you say it.
Stumbled on this video on how to design parts so they don't lift as easily in the corners. Some good ideas.
good practice on multi color and surprising how easy the supports came off.
I can probably help you out if its still on your radar, my printer is improved and my skills are improving
Attachments
Sure! That would be great, if you want to try making one or two, please!
Bambu slicer slices models into sub-parts. The Prusa slicer does a better job by having an option for an automatically created dove tail on both sides of the cut. Both programs are based on...something else...Cura? Not sure off the top of my head. See my toolbox posts for the Vevor Mag Drill: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/vevor-mag-drill-1100w.18574/post-229513
and
Revs - used a lot of filament. Finally got it so it's ok. I'm printing the bottom tray now and then the lid.
I can't find the thread where we talked about text in the vertical part of a 3D print so I'll post it here:
The Font is Microsoft Sans Serif 3.5mm high. Extrude cut into the vertical surface 2mm.
After printing I painted shellac onto the surface. When that was dry I used oil based black paint and blobbed it over the letters. I let that set for a minute or so and then with a paper towel wiped it off. It left black smears around the letters. (Sorry. forgot to do a photo of that).
Once the pain was dry I used alcohol to remove the shellac and with that the black smears also came off. I think I should have let the black paint dry a bit more before wiping with the towel and it looks better in real life than in the photo.
The Font is Microsoft Sans Serif 3.5mm high. Extrude cut into the vertical surface 2mm.
After printing I painted shellac onto the surface. When that was dry I used oil based black paint and blobbed it over the letters. I let that set for a minute or so and then with a paper towel wiped it off. It left black smears around the letters. (Sorry. forgot to do a photo of that).
Once the pain was dry I used alcohol to remove the shellac and with that the black smears also came off. I think I should have let the black paint dry a bit more before wiping with the towel and it looks better in real life than in the photo.
Is it easier to modify existing files, like makerworld has, or just start from scratch?
How easy is it to "snip" part of a file and rotate it 180 degrees, or copy it to add a second one?
How easy or hard is it to change dimensions, is it click and drag to enlarge/tighten?
How easy is it to "snip" part of a file and rotate it 180 degrees, or copy it to add a second one?
How easy or hard is it to change dimensions, is it click and drag to enlarge/tighten?
For some reason, since in many sites there's no monetary reward for posting files, I don't understand why these 'makers' post stl files. 99% of the CAD programs can't import these to then make changes.
Now if they provide a STP or STEP file then you can import it and modify it.
To print more than one of the same it's up to your 3D printer slicer to load or duplicate copies.
Again a STEP file can be scaled. For example: I imported this stp file. Then measured the edge.
Then scaled it by 1.5 and now the edge is 90mm.
My software also let's me scale X or Y or Z or a combination so here it is twice as thick.
What I can't do is make the hole smaller. Not easily. Instead I first have to plug the hole and make a new hole.
That's really not that hard though. Create two circles and extrude that to essentially make an insert that is flush with the existing hole and has a smaller center.
Ahh. So stl is no edit, copy paste print.In stp, could you "snip" that piece and add a second one beside it?
Yes. You can build on what is there.
The file you would download ready to 3DP parts is typically a mesh file (STL, STEP). 3DP slicer programs typically can accept both but I've heard a number like 90% of 3DP download files from print sites are STL. STEP would be nice to have. Native CAD files (the original) would be considered a gift.
STL = Standard Tessellation Language = considered DIFFICULT to modify. Basically a gazillion faceted surfaces which has been 'converted' to this format FROM the native (lest call it smooth, water tight CAD model). This can be modified but anything substantial takes more work & specialized knowledge than the CAD language itself. Below (random image grab) is kind of a visualization of that. The more the curved surfaces, the more the 'approximation' of the real surface. You can do macro things like Scale or Slice or Squish depending on slicer or aftermarket tool, but you are a long ways off the original design like change this 10mm wrench to a 9mm version.
STEP = (Standard for the Exchange of Product) model data = BETTER. If you have a 3D CAD app & proficiency you stand a much better chance of modifying it for purpose. Its a "neutral" 3D format that preserves B-Rep (Boundary Representation) data. It understands the mathematical definition of the geometry.
The steel build sheets for my printers are quite scratched up. I see there are new stick on PEI 'sheets' you can get to replace the surface. Anybody tried this? I was hoping I could just put the new sheet on top of the existing surface and avoid any removal headaches.
And an article on restoring PEI surface so prints stick to them again. (although they say it's only for PLA and PETG is different)
https://layercraftlog.com/fdm-printing/pei-surface-reconditioning-protocol
And an article on restoring PEI surface so prints stick to them again. (although they say it's only for PLA and PETG is different)
https://layercraftlog.com/fdm-printing/pei-surface-reconditioning-protocol
Last edited:
Nope. I always assumed if the time came on my Bambu A1 I'd just chuck the plate, buy a factory replacement for 20-20$ so back to brand new conditions? It just has a magnet holdown IIR. The pre-print bed step (whatever that slicer step is called) maps the new plate topography. Is your plate that expensive or more difficult to replace? The cleaning procedure in the link (for the new aftermarkey sheet) is interesting because it touches on the same controversial issues that come up in general cleaning.
Tom O
Ultra Member
My old Makerbot used a stick on surface I could never get it to lie flat without a wrinkle or air bubbles in the enclosed area.