Hah, busted, there is something he hasn't wrapped up in a weekend
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Several Regions have held meetups already, but others are being planned or are evaluating the interest. The Calgary Area Meetup is set for Saturday July 12th at 10am. The signup thread is here! Arbutus has also explored interest in a Fraser Valley meetup but it seems members either missed his thread or had other plans. Let him know if you are interested in a meetup later in the year by posting here! Slowpoke is trying to pull together an Ottawa area meetup later this summer. No date has been selected yet, so let him know if you are interested here! We are not aware of any other meetups being planned this year. If you are interested in doing something in your area, let everyone know and make it happen! Meetups are a great way to make new machining friends and get hands on help in your area. Don’t be shy, sign up and come, or plan your own meetup!
2002 VW Golf refurb
- Thread starter David
- Start date
DPittman
Ultra Member
I think it must for the same reason people would do this.
Yeah I don't get it either and think it looks stupid.
140mower
Don
I figured a swift kick in the nuts should do the same for less money. 🙄
KeeponDragon
no problems... just challenges
I hope I have caught you in time...these hubs are in fact, a press fit into the bearing, which is pressed into the knuckle...Am I wrong in the assumption your goal is just to get the CV shaft out? You'd be better off to pop the lower ball joint out of the spindle, pull the spindle up and away, THEN whack the stub with a hammer.
Replacing hub bearings in VW's is a royal pain the arse...the spindles are an odd ball shape and hard to fixture in your standard issue PA shop press...
I got fed up fighting with them and purchased a clone of a tool kit called a Hub Shark. One of my best Amazon purchases to date.
The way that puller is pictured, I imagine the CV will bottom out in the flange at the gearbox, then the forces will be applied to the hub...resulting in it's unintended ejection...I think...
MK IV's are usually a bear to work on...so far you seem to be having pretty decent results given it's a coastal car...
Also noticed your one CV came apart suddenly, dribbling your balls everywhere, that may have led to the lack of forward motion when the clutch was released...these transmissions are peg-legged...if one CV breaks...the car is immobile...
Apologies in advance if you've already remedied the issues...It's been a minute since I got caught up on this discussion...
grease monkey
just another day!
Smyth kits says its a weekend job, with the right tools and a couple guys with decent car knowledge, kits come with everything but paint and a tailgate, as the gate they use is off a 2002 Ranger stepside, watched a few video's, I know I could pull it off.
grease monkey
just another day!
it all started in Nascar, those cars are all lowered for aerodynamics, and that morphed into average street cars getting that modification done, some for the same reason as Nascar cars, for handling and such, the rest? simply for the look! if done wrong they ALL ride like crap and hit all kinds of stuff on the road and under the car itself as the bump clearances are all catywompuss!! mostly for the look, I lowered my F150, to mimick what a stock 1995 F150 Lightning had, as these are lower from factory by 2", thats all I did, still road normal and handled as it was built, these guys dragging rockers on the ground, thats not for me, to each their own I guess! now jacked up trucks, that started with the Mexican Baja 100, everyone watching that saw those trucks raised for ground clearance and suspension travels while going 100mph, so again, that morphed into a trend for regular trucks to get the same mods done, of which I am also guilty, for the same reason, ground clearance, not to travel at 100mph or anything, but driving up rocky roads and such! but again just like everything, theres a fine line between a decent lift, and retarded lift, where you can see the bottom of the truck, that is just plain top heavy! again, to each their own.
Looks like they are going to stop producing the VW kits.
Thanks!
I'm hoping to just remove and replace the axle.
I will give the hydraulic press a go today I hope.
Kind of like they stopped making VW Beetles. But an end to Formula Vee. Anyone remember Formula Vee?
Formula Vee - Wikipedia
Success!
The press worked perfectly.
It's a bit of a bear to position because it's heavy and the arms want to fall out of position.
I put one arm at the 12 o'clock position and extended the ram enough so it was on the end of the axle. Then positioned the other arms.
Only took about four pumps and the axle was free.
Happy days!
The press worked perfectly.
It's a bit of a bear to position because it's heavy and the arms want to fall out of position.
I put one arm at the 12 o'clock position and extended the ram enough so it was on the end of the axle. Then positioned the other arms.
Only took about four pumps and the axle was free.
Happy days!
Always wanted to build a Formula Vee car.Kind of like they stopped making VW Beetles. But an end to Formula Vee. Anyone remember Formula Vee?
Formula Vee - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Tom O
Ultra Member
You could but the Judge would probably get a kick out of the paint way.
140mower
Don
..... he's probably already had his own thoughts on the matter........ might be quite sympathetic. 😛
DPittman
Ultra Member
I just did the rear axle bolt on my Rabbit and it had to go to 133 ft/lbs.(which wasn't bad) but then it had to go another 90 degrees past. I had a 2 foot breaker bar with a 4ft snipe on it and all my weight of it. I was afraid my breaker bar was going to snap or stay bent. It seemed excessive to me.
That's a lot of torque. I recall the rear axle nut on an air-cooled Type 1 is some insane amount as well, over 200 ft/lbs
