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1 1/2 8tpi 3 and 4 Jaw Threaded Chucks

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
Just bought a 40+ year old NIB Buck three jaw chuck from HH Roberts Machine in Ontario. He has the 3 Jaw Buck chuck and the 4 Jaw Atlas both brand new old stock at $190 each. A new Buck goes for around a grand. I bought the 4 jaw Atlas last summer and has worked out well. It took a bit of honing and a good cleaning but it's working out well.
The company bought a pallet load of each in the 1970s trying to corner the market on the hobby lathe chuck market. That worked out well,,,,,, anyway, he still has a few if anyone is interested.
Mike
 
Interesting place, thanks for the tip. I note he also has a four-man inflatable life raft for sale which, if it doesn’t stop raining here soon, is looking pretty tempting! ;)

-frank
 
Just bought a 40+ year old NIB Buck three jaw chuck from HH Roberts Machine in Ontario. He has the 3 Jaw Buck chuck and the 4 Jaw Atlas both brand new old stock at $190 each. A new Buck goes for around a grand. I bought the 4 jaw Atlas last summer and has worked out well. It took a bit of honing and a good cleaning but it's working out well.
The company bought a pallet load of each in the 1970s trying to corner the market on the hobby lathe chuck market. That worked out well,,,,,, anyway, he still has a few if anyone is interested.
Mike

Are they advertised somewhere on their site?


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I would have posted the link but being new the warnings have me a bit gun shy. For the price and the fact they are not cheap chinesium I think it's a pretty good deal.
Francist - let me see,,, we're in Victoria,, it's January and it's raining,,,,,, this would be my surprised look;)
 
First thing,, the 3 jaw is a Bison not a Buck. Mine showed up on Monday, it is dated 1979 and the old grease shows it. The grease inside was almost dust so they definitely need to be taken apart, cleaned and re-greased. The jaws needed some massaging to get them to move freely but now they move smooth. When I tried to mount the chuck in my SM9" it was only grabbing by a couple of threads so I had to knock about .300 off the register for it to mount comfortably. I thru a bar in and it came in at about .0025 for runout, which is pretty much at spec. So for $190 I don't think you can go wrong.
Mike
 

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Well done, if I didn't already have a decent 3-jaw I'd be all over one of those!
 
Ahhhhh hold on here. You have a 9" Utilathe correct? The spindle for that is stated to be 1.5" X 8 TPI.

Is the chuck you sourced 8 TPI or 10 TPI?

The title of your post states 10 TPI.
 
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Just bought a 40+ year old NIB Buck three jaw chuck from HH Roberts Machine in Ontario. He has the 3 Jaw Buck chuck and the 4 Jaw Atlas both brand new old stock at $190 each. A new Buck goes for around a grand. I bought the 4 jaw Atlas last summer and has worked out well. It took a bit of honing and a good cleaning but it's working out well.
The company bought a pallet load of each in the 1970s trying to corner the market on the hobby lathe chuck market. That worked out well,,,,,, anyway, he still has a few if anyone is interested.
Mike

Hey Mike what was the shipping cost like?
 
Um,,,er,, it was a test to see if anyone was paying attention,,,,ya ,, that's it....:oops: My mistake in the title, it is 1.5x8 TPI just like the paperwork says.
Hruul - Shipping to Sooke via UPS was,,,,, are you sitting down? $70 Worked out to $10 a kilo. It should be about 1/2 the cost to you.
I was going to be an fleabay cheapo but by the time you buy a backing plate for it, you've spent almost as much and still have a cheapo chuck.
 
Um,,,er,, it was a test to see if anyone was paying attention,,,,ya ,, that's it....:oops: My mistake in the title, it is 1.5x8 TPI just like the paperwork says.
Hruul - Shipping to Sooke via UPS was,,,,, are you sitting down? $70 Worked out to $10 a kilo. It should be about 1/2 the cost to you.
I was going to be an fleabay cheapo but by the time you buy a backing plate for it, you've spent almost as much and still have a cheapo chuck.
Thanks for the info Yota. Kind of what I was expecting. I have two three jaw chucks now but they are both smaller. Plus the removable top jaws are an interesting addition to what I have currently. Will have to think on this one. How did you vote out the register? Mill? Other lathe?

thanks,
Lee
 
Hruul - While I had the chuck apart for cleaning I mounted the backing plate onto the faceplate of the SM and turned down the register. I took off about .300, cleaned it all up pretty and then had to bore out a bit of thread cause .300 was a half a thread to much (you can all stop laughing now). I should have checked the runout before I took it apart but wasn't thinking that far ahead. I'm not doing rocket science so I'm happy with only being out a couple of thou.
 
Can you post an image indicating where and what you turned down? 0.3" sounds like a lot to me.

Thanks
 
Morning,
First thing was to mount the faceplate and take a skim off to zero it to the spindle Then I made sure the backing plate was clean and bolted it to the face plate, I used the dial micrometer to make sure it was concentric. The picture just gives you the idea of what was done, you don't need to go ape tightening the bolts, just enough to keep things in place. From there you can see the initial piece I removed and then faced the register. I ended up with clean part of the bore at approx .375 and that is the same as the face plate. Not to difficult and there is lots of thread so my having to deepen the bore a bit was not an issue. I kept the shop vac going as I was cutting just to minimize the cast dust that was flying around, made for an easier cleanup afterward. When the backing plate is remounted you need to remember to match the alignment mark to keep it mated to the chuck as per the factory.
Hope that helps.
 

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Thanks @YotaBota
At the risk of exposing my newbie status, is there a reason to not mount the backing plate backwards directly on the spindle?


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At least it is not indecent "newbie exposure" LOL

I would say David that if " that is what you need to do then that is what you need to do". If you thread it on that way will it sit flush up to the landing or do the threads run out and it just rides the threads?

You might need to put it on the right way and just skim back a thread to let it sit flush and also skin the surface so it is running true with your lathe. Flip it and size away!.

Seems like there is lots of "fitment" meat there

You could also machine a nice precision washer to take up the distance verses taking out a thread
 
The threads run right up to the face of the backing plate. As Brent said that would mean mounting it and facing off the front, then cutting back the threads far enough for the face to become the register. There is a lot of "meat" to play with but using the face plate is just the way I'm comfortable. Besides,,,,my lathe,,,,my rules,,:)
 
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