Recent content by phaxtris

Yes, I believe you just rehashed my post, other than missing the most important angle of the entire bit, the cutting edge support, a 118 bit will drill stainless or plastic, a 135 deg bit will drill stainless or plastic as well, not ideally, but it will work, screw up the support it may not...

This is the make or break angle, if you don't get this right it doesn't matter if the included angle is correct, to steep it dulls and or chips, to shallow it cuts like crap or not at all Hundreds of drill bits by hand, plenty of those with an angle grinder in a vise (your setup is not that...

I visited the cbsa office in Calgary 3 times last week to clear a package (not fault of cbsa, I was given some bad info) They definitely were lost on the tariff situation, they said so many changes it was hard to keep up UPS wanted 107$ on that package, cost me 17$ plus gas, I wasn't working...

The included angle of the tip is not really super critical, 110 deg, 118deg heck 140 degrees all will drill, what is really important is the support behind the cutting edge, to steep it will drill like a banshee for about 2 holes before chipping or dulling, to shallow and it either doesn't drill...

File or die grind (nom abrasive) would be easy enough You will cook anything within a few inches, I would take everything out of there. Brazing is a pretty simple and easy process, plus you are just building up to shape it, doesn't much matter what it looks like

Hey I don't mind if some of my tax dollars to towards good looking buildings and "beautification" items, I think that's one of the reasons people choose Calgary over Edmonton...what an ugly drab looking place that is

Seems reasonable to me as well Another alternative could be to build it up with braze and grind/file/die grind the channel profile But you would have to tear it down

Ahh I did think about making sections, and although it's fairly symmetrical to the eye I'm sure it's not perfect. If I were to do it with pourable foam I would have at least made some kind of cardboard sections/dams to keep it under control, using the spray foam wasn't difficult to build up...

it has been done for about a week now, just removed it from the mold today, here is an update a little bit every night, sand, drywall mud, add foam to the bottom....rinse and repeat...8 cans of spray foam an a whole bunch of drywall mud later.. getting the foam built up on the bottom has been...

ya you could scop it under load to see if it looks like a purely rectified ac signal without smoothing, it would still weld if it wasn't, im just not sure how nice the arc would be you could install a dinse in parallel if you wanted, if you have an alligator style stinger it may go large enough...

yes just like that, be aware that has a dinse connector, and the gas hose is probably not long enough to reach your bottle so for that probably need a longer gas hose, and depending on your setup you may be able to just clamp your stinger onto the dinse connector, or put a dinse connector on...

yes, just get yourself a torch with a gas valve, a power cable adapter (splits off the gas and gives you a lug for a power cable), and a bottle you hook it up straight polarity, and you will have to turn the gas on manually on the torch, then its just a scratch start tig, your amperage is...

so long as the machine you bought is dc you can tig with it, just no foot pedal

Honestly that's a bunch of junk a guy would never use, if he gets 200$ for that lot he's a better salesman than i

I just thought you liked to paint your nails ¯\_(ツ)_/¯