WTB Low Melt Solder

Susquatch

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There is a desoldering solder, that drops the temp range to reduce component damage, try DIGIKEY, Sayal has carried in the past.

Desoldering solder? That's a new one on me! Always ready and willing to learn new tricks!

How the heck does that work?
 
Desoldering solder? That's a new one on me! Always ready and willing to learn new tricks!

How the heck does that work?
Go to Digikey.ca search for product SMD1-ND pull up the datasheet and it explains it. Special Flux and really low temp solder 136F allows for SMD removal without burning up the board. Haven't used it personally, but have friends that have. Ain't cheap.
 

Susquatch

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Go to Digikey.ca search for product SMD1-ND pull up the datasheet and it explains it. Special Flux and really low temp solder 136F allows for SMD removal without burning up the board. Haven't used it personally, but have friends that have. Ain't cheap.

Ah, I see now.....

SMD means Surface Mounted Device which usually use SMT (Surface Mount Technology) wherein a soldering paste is applied to the surface of a circuit board and/or to the bottom of the mounting pads on the device and then they are heated to solidify the paste. Such devices can be removed using more paste and more heat.

That is an entirely different process from using printed circuit boards with through holes and pins. In this latter case, the desoldering solder won't work. The old solder must be melted and then either sucked out or wicked out - I much prefer wicking as it is cleaner and requires less hand eye coordination. Best of all, my shaky old hands can handle it way better than trying to use a sucker, an iron, and the board all at the same time.
 
Ah, I see now.....

SMD means Surface Mounted Device which usually use SMT (Surface Mount Technology) wherein a soldering paste is applied to the surface of a circuit board and/or to the bottom of the mounting pads on the device and then they are heated to solidify the paste. Such devices can be removed using more paste and more heat.

That is an entirely different process from using printed circuit boards with through holes and pins. In this latter case, the desoldering solder won't work. The old solder must be melted and then either sucked out or wicked out - I much prefer wicking as it is cleaner and requires less hand eye coordination. Best of all, my shaky old hands can handle it way better than trying to use a sucker, an iron, and the board all at the same time.
Yes thats true, but even for you for thru hole, this works as it means you don't overheat the traces. There are some older post on this in other groups (about 15 years ago) just when I started getting in to lead free. BTW I only use lead free know Nd have no issues.
 

Susquatch

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I'm not on that page. My own personal experience says that wire in with solder paste is fragile and messy. We totally abandoned that approach in the auto industry. But vehicle usage environments are hard on electronics due to vibration, temp cycling, and corrosion.

I guess if it works for you and you are happy, that's all that matters. I prefer the good old fashioned solder wire for my own uses.

For the record, I also dislike crimp on connectors for many of the same reasons, and I prefer 60% lead solder too.

Yes, I'm also old and stubborn. ;)
 
With lead free it really depends on the brand, in my opinion there is only one that really works and behaves like lead. KOKI. I go through about 3 to 5 lbs a year of wire solder and have been using it for years. The only draw back is you should use good digital temp controlled iron 710 to 735F

Other brands the biggest issue with other brands is tip detinning (tip stops wetting and you can't solder).
 
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