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Working on my South Bend 9C

Doesn't the ER arbor need to be sucked in with a draw bar? Does he have a hole through the existing spindle?
 
@DavidR8 I'd at least like to see if it fits! (Given the shape of the spindle interior, I don't want to damage it)

And I can probably get away without the bore, that was just a really nice addition so I don't have to pre-cut my blanks.

I've made a similar drawbar for my wood lathe in the past. Provided I can source the right all thread rod, not a big issue.
 
David wasn’t Golems spindle MT 3 inside taper galled & generally destroyed & unusable?
I must’ve missed it. My Bad?
This is my MT3 ER 32 chuck.
When it arrived i noticed it was 1/2-12, i wasn’t paying attention, thought it was normal 1/2-13.
I made a sleeve 1/2-12 od to 3/8-16 id so i could use it with my homade , 3/8-16 draw bar.assy.
 

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David wasn’t Golems spindle MT 3 inside taper galled & generally destroyed & unusable?
I must’ve missed it. My Bad?
This is my MT3 ER 32 chuck.
When it arrived i noticed it was 1/2-12, i wasn’t paying attention, thought it was normal 1/2-13.
I made a sleeve 1/2-12 od to 3/8-16 id so i could use it with my homade , 3/8-16 draw bar.assy.
The first 1/2" or so is a bit messed up but the rest felt good.
 
Man, the MT3 taper i saw looked WAY beyond a reamer.
But a small boring bar might work.
Trouble is it would need to be bored with the compound.
I have made OD MT3 & MT2 accurately, with a very careful offset.
However i have never bored a inside taper.
Give it a try, whatta ya got to lose?
 
@jorogi @PeterT @Golem Pens

You don't need to cut all new threads. You can pick up the existing threads and cut them a wee bit deeper just enough to true them for concentricity.

That might also require removing a scooch more on the OD, and obviously it would end up being a non-standard thread which I rarely recommend. But this seems like a worthy exception.
 
If it were me, I'd just single point thread a 1/2" bar. Or use a 1/2-13 die on the ends.
A 12" length of all-thread is ... $3.38 at the Home Despot at the end of the block, I'll take the lazy route for now! https://www.homedepot.ca/product/pa...threaded-steel-rod-zinc-plated-unc/1000797593

And yes, per David, it looks like the roughed up portion of then spindle interior doesn't contact the shank, and the majority of the shank is in fact engaged with clean taper.
 
You don't need to cut all new threads. You can pick up the existing threads and cut them a wee bit deeper
Up in #675 I commented that the existing ones looked skinny already but hard to judge by a pic & no followup. Maybe someone gave rethreading a go too?
Looks like other options are in play. Good luck!
 
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