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CA-BC What kind of steel in CV half-shaft axles

British Columbia
Type
Metal

Birkhoff

Well-Known Member
I had some junk half-shafts around and cut the axles out before scrapping the CV joints. Languished under the bench for a while but recently I had a fixture that I wanted to make from something other than HR mild steel. Whatever the axle part is made of does not like to be turned in my lathe! HSS tool struggles to bite. With enough pressure it will, but then the tool glows red pretty quick and it's game over. I had some negative rake holders with flat carbide inserts that I don't care about (no top relief, no chip breaker) and they will cut with enough pressure, but it pulls a bright red glowing ribbon of material off and eventually burns out the corner of the insert. Tried various feeds 'n speeds but always the same; if it cuts, it pulls a red hot chip.

I've kind of given up on the idea of using this material for my fixture (it needs a thread cut too) but I do wonder what kind of steel and heat treating those axles go through.

Now that I write this, I recall a similar experience trying to turn a piece of a big torsion bar way back -- something both tough and hard. I could see an argument that they need to have similar physical properties.
 
Probably induction hardened. Anneal at 1475F for an hour per inch of thickness and allow to cool to ambient slowly in air.
 
It could be one of many alloys, it will be some form of medium carbon steel in either case, I believe they are all induction hardened after machining

It all depends on the price point of the original Axle shaft, I had some custom half shafts made for a project several years ago, and there were at least 3 material options if I recall (300m being the one I went with)
 
A friend machines 9in. Ford axles, splines etc. Heats them up with a torch,lets them cool. Don't remember what temp. though. Uses an indicator pen to check temp. Reworked many for racers narrowing housings. He wanted a certain temp. as I don't remember them being reheated after machining, so most likely not fully annealed.
 
A friend machines 9in. Ford axles, splines etc. Heats them up with a torch,lets them cool. Don't remember what temp. though. Uses an indicator pen to check temp. Reworked many for racers narrowing housings. He wanted a certain temp. as I don't remember them being reheated after machining, so most likely not fully annealed.
I'm not up to speed on axle alloys, but I do know they vary a lot. The Ford axles from the 50's were noticeable weaker than the ones from the 60's. I broke more than my fair share of Ford 9" axles ( high RPM launches on slicks). When ordering custom aftermarket axles, one of the first things they want to know is how will these be used? Circle track, drag, street? Best alloy for drag strip s not ideal for street and visa-versa.

I had a guy shorten a set of 9" axles and they broke first time at the drag strip. He replaced them and sent the second set out for heat treating. They came back all wonky.

Started ordering from Moser after that and never had another failure. Strange use some kind of alloy they refer to as Hy-tuf that is also used for military landing gear. 240,000 psi tensile strength. No surprise your having a "tuf" time machining it.
 
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I had the torches out recently on a different job so I decided to try a low-rent annealing on the same axles. Heated to non-magnetic and wrapped in fibreglass blanket for half a day. Was still warm when I got back to it BUT, still hard as all get out. It may have softened slightly, or maybe not. It also seemed to have harder 'spots' in some areas. Still took massive tool pressure to get the negative rake carbide insert to cut at all.

This, and the general drift of comments above means I think I'm going to call this a failed attempt at recycling. Thanks for all your insights.
 
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