Tool Vevor Drill Bit Sharpener Improved

[TorontoBuilder]

I've worked out the mod for a duo grinder that combines the features of the Vevor 13A and 13B and I'd like to propose a group project for all members who are interested.

Below is the 13A innards (motor mount plate and the pivot) for the split point grinding.

Below are the 13B innards (motor mount plate and the pivot for web thinning.

I believed that the duo machines had to have their pivots moved to the middle of the motor mounting plate.

The motom appears to confirm that the web thinning pivot has been relocated to the mid point of the motor mount. It is hard to see how the split point jig portion is attached from this angle.

This angle isn't much help, but it does seem to confirm that the spring loaded depth adjustment is on the outbound side of the web thinning adapter.

This view suggests that the split point portion may be two sided spring loaded adjustment given the two holes.

There are many similar machines, set up for end mills, drills and such but with different methods of doing each bevel. Here is how one that I believe the duo grinder is based on... at least the pivot. Then the split point is affixed to a piece that it bolted on below and to the right of the pivot bolt.

So new motor mount plate, new split point plate and flange, new pivot mechanism and web thinning plate and brand new duo machine. I figure that the material will cost under $30. Maybe another $100 for a black oxide kit because I think I'm out of solution. About $50 for the ER25 collets to expand the grinding range up to 20mm

 

[johnbp]

I came across this thread when looking for info on how long the grinding wheels should last, since mine appears to have worn out.

But first, if Canadians can order from Lowe's in the US, or maybe you have Lowe's in Canada, they have a few of the MR-13A's available for $200 US. I'm in California, ordered one on Christmas day and it arrived on the 28th. I just searched their web site (www.lowes.com) for "MR-13A". I wanted to do 135*, split point so I went with that model.

Back to grinding wheel life - I've sharpened on the order of 100 drills and it was starting to take longer on the last ten or twenty. Then I tried sharpening one that seemed to take a really long time, although I wasn't paying a lot of attention at that point. When I realized something was up I pulled it out and found that it has a carbide tip. Now the sharpener doesn't want to cut HSS any more.

I see plenty of replacement CBN wheels on eBay, all from China, of course. They start at about $65 US and go up. Shars (www.shars.com) in the US has what looks to be the right one, for ~$74, I'll probably order that one.

Very few of my dull drills were already 135* split-point so I've done a LOT of grinding. My grinding wheel was slowing down, and I think I hastened its demise with that carbide tip, but it looks like these wheels don't last forever.

I feel the MR-13A has way more than paid for itself so I don't mind having to purchase a new wheel.

I also spent some time tweaking the split-point adjustment to fine tune it. Like someone above mentioned, the sharpener is pretty much a kit.

 

[6.5 Fan]

Took the plunge last night and ordered a Vevor 3B, the one with 2 grinding wheels. I learned many years ago how to sharpen drills by hand, but, a big but, arthritis is causing me a lot of problems, So what the hell it's tax deductible.

 

[140mower]

I came across this thread when looking for info on how long the grinding wheels should last, since mine appears to have worn out.

But first, if Canadians can order from Lowe's in the US, or maybe you have Lowe's in Canada, they have a few of the MR-13A's available for $200 US. I'm in California, ordered one on Christmas day and it arrived on the 28th. I just searched their web site (www.lowes.com) for "MR-13A". I wanted to do 135*, split point so I went with that model.

Back to grinding wheel life - I've sharpened on the order of 100 drills and it was starting to take longer on the last ten or twenty. Then I tried sharpening one that seemed to take a really long time, although I wasn't paying a lot of attention at that point. When I realized something was up I pulled it out and found that it has a carbide tip. Now the sharpener doesn't want to cut HSS any more.

I see plenty of replacement CBN wheels on eBay, all from China, of course. They start at about $65 US and go up. Shars (www.shars.com) in the US has what looks to be the right one, for ~$74, I'll probably order that one.

Very few of my dull drills were already 135* split-point so I've done a LOT of grinding. My grinding wheel was slowing down, and I think I hastened its demise with that carbide tip, but it looks like these wheels don't last forever.

I feel the MR-13A has way more than paid for itself so I don't mind having to purchase a new wheel.

I also spent some time tweaking the split-point adjustment to fine tune it. Like someone above mentioned, the sharpener is pretty much a kit.

I have to confess that I am a hand grinding hack and have little to offer.....
But, welcome to the forum from Lillooet BC. If you get a chance start a quick introduction thread telling us a little about yourself and your shop.

 

[Aarknoid]

Have you tried these yet in your 13B?

I test fit them in the same spot but haven't run any bits through it yet, they fit tight and looked identical make / quality as the original collet holders ( which are surprisingly solid)

 

[PeterT]

Lets see some closeup shots of your drill grinds

 

[Susquatch]

Lets see some closeup shots of your drill grinds

That's a great idea Peter! I'd like to see that too. It would be a great start for developing an improved Vevor 13xyz

I can't offer up any spectacular hand grinds, but I can post some drill doctor result photos. And I'd love to see a few closeups of handgrinds from those who can, as well as some from the Vevor 13a or b.

What size drill should we use for comparison? And how do we rule out drills with crappy webs?

 

[PeterT]

I'd say for now, just post them with any relevant details. 'Cline HSS drill on Vevor, 135-deg, split point'. Crappy tire drill on Darex. 4-facet grind on shop made sharpener. Action shot: note single swarf stream under smoke cloud & and drill walked 0.070" off center - I guess Grandpappy's hand grind wasn't so good LOL. That kind of thing. Maybe we don't want to sidetrack this Vevor 'machine' thread even though I would think the results would be relevant to people considering purchase. Maybe a new thread?

 

[Susquatch]

I agree on a new thread. This is your baby @TorontoBuilder - just tell me and I'll make it so.

 

[Downwindtracker2]

Just for relevance, the other day I picked up three drill bits at KBC , a couple of #29s and a 1/2", $3 each and $17 . Rather expensive for only mid-line quality.These were Cle-line (imported Cleveland) . They were made in Brazil which is where almost all non Chinese drill bits are made these days. It seems for hand drill bits there isn't much of market so one factory does all brands. Every once in a while you get these gems from someone who works in that industry.

I like the fact Vevor model will do split points and milling cutters. Then the economics make sense.

 

[Canadium]

J....

I like the fact Vevor model will do split points and milling cutters. Then the economics make sense.

Will the Vevor models do milling cutters??? According to Lyle , aka Tubalcain, they do not. I wish they did!

 

[Susquatch]

I like the fact Vevor model will do split points and milling cutters. Then the economics make sense.

The ability to do milling cutters is still an open question. It's in the description but there is zero other information on it. I'm not inclined to consider Tubalcaine's opinion as gospel. He may or may not be right.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

I came across this thread when looking for info on how long the grinding wheels should last, since mine appears to have worn out.

But first, if Canadians can order from Lowe's in the US, or maybe you have Lowe's in Canada, they have a few of the MR-13A's available for $200 US. I'm in California, ordered one on Christmas day and it arrived on the 28th. I just searched their web site (www.lowes.com) for "MR-13A". I wanted to do 135*, split point so I went with that model.

Back to grinding wheel life - I've sharpened on the order of 100 drills and it was starting to take longer on the last ten or twenty. Then I tried sharpening one that seemed to take a really long time, although I wasn't paying a lot of attention at that point. When I realized something was up I pulled it out and found that it has a carbide tip. Now the sharpener doesn't want to cut HSS any more.

I see plenty of replacement CBN wheels on eBay, all from China, of course. They start at about $65 US and go up. Shars (www.shars.com) in the US has what looks to be the right one, for ~$74, I'll probably order that one.

Very few of my dull drills were already 135* split-point so I've done a LOT of grinding. My grinding wheel was slowing down, and I think I hastened its demise with that carbide tip, but it looks like these wheels don't last forever.

I feel the MR-13A has way more than paid for itself so I don't mind having to purchase a new wheel.

I also spent some time tweaking the split-point adjustment to fine tune it. Like someone above mentioned, the sharpener is pretty much a kit.

Lowes went belly up in Canada and got bought out by the chain that lowes originally acquired parts of. Aliexpress is the cheapest option for canadians to buy wheels

You can load a cbn or diamond wheel and need to clean out the pores of the wheel, even electroplated wheels. That is likely your issue prior to the carbide incident.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

The ability to do milling cutters is still an open question. It's in the description but there is zero other information on it. I'm not inclined to consider Tubalcaine's opinion as gospel. He may or may not be right.

To grind milling cutters the tool seat is moved 90 degree to present the end mill to the face of the wheel at a 2 degree offset IIRC. The tool setter is different too.

Then the points are ground using a split point gauge that is angled to the top of the wheel. Only old style vevors had the ability to change the insert in the spilt point gauge.

Below is a dedicated end mill sharpener based on the same design. You can see blocks for what appears to be flute grinding and I believe relief grinding as well. Can easily make a stamped metal guard to cover the end but you could 3d print one. Interesting mods to be made to this machine...

Correction: The two gauges on the left hand side of the machine are the secondary relief angle cuts. The gauge closest to the body cuts secondary relief of 3/4 flute end mills, the one furthest away cuts secondary relief on 2 flute end mills. Flutes are cut using other side of the machine with different wheel and R8 collets to hold end mill.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

I agree on a new thread. This is your baby @TorontoBuilder - just tell me and I'll make it so.

In my best Jean Luke Picard voice "Make it so."

 

[DavidR8]

To grind milling cutters the tool seat is moved 90 degree to present the end mill to the face of the wheel at a 2 degree offset IIRC. The tool setter is different too.

View attachment 56916


Then the points are ground using a split point gauge that is angled to the top of the wheel. Only old style vevors had the ability to change the insert in the spilt point gauge.

View attachment 56915

Below is a dedicated end mill sharpener based on the same design. You can see blocks for what appears to be flute grinding and I believe relief grinding as well. Can easily make a stamped metal guard to cover the end but you could 3d print one. Interesting mods to be made to this machine...

View attachment 56914

Which Vevor model will do this? The A or the B?

 

[Dan Dubeau]

Seems like a well made machine, capable of decent results from the videos I've skimmed through so far. Shame about the size range though. I'm still pretty good at hand grinding in the range that the machine can do, so for me it's a waste of valuable bench space and money better spent elsewhere. If they made one that could do 1/8" and down, sign me up though. I usually do those purely by muscle memory, and it might take a touch or two to get right. The bigger ones I still have no problem with. I probably should invest in some magnification apparatus to better help me out.......

Curious about the endmill sharpeners of similar design though. I always figured they were purely a gimmick, but if they're capable of similar results as the drill grinders, maybe I should give a second look.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Which Vevor model will do this? The A or the B?

neither until modified.

 

[PeterT]

Just be aware, I've been going through this on replacement wheels for my TCG. On AliExpress they tend to use the words CBN (Cubic Born Nitride) & Diamond rather fast & loose - interchangeably and often incorrectly. When you see a specific form factor wheel for say a knife sharpener or possibly machine like this, you might stand half a chance CBN really means CBN.

The difference is not about hardness, diamond is actually a bit harder. The issue is diamond does not play nice with HSS, specifically carbon of which its comprised of. Now I've heard different stories like only an issue at grinding elevated temperatures. Others say nope, there's more to it than that. All I can say is diamond wheels are spit cheap. I had spares so ignored it & have been dressing M35 HSS drills, my expendable practice set. Its 'working, but I don't know for how long. Another subject is how to expose fresh diamond because the 'brown' wheel is diamond particles within a solid binder as opposed to electroplated on a metal wheel... but I'm getting off topic. If it were me buying the Vevor & happy with results, I'd get some spare CBN wheels to sleep better.

 

[TorontoBuilder]

Just be aware, I've been going through this on replacement wheels for my TCG. On AliExpress they tend to use the words CBN (Cubic Born Nitride) & Diamond rather fast & loose - interchangeably and often incorrectly. When you see a specific form factor wheel for say a knife sharpener or possibly machine like this, you might stand half a chance CBN really means CBN.

The difference is not about hardness, diamond is actually a bit harder. The issue is diamond does not play nice with HSS, specifically carbon of which its comprised of. Now I've heard different stories like only an issue at grinding elevated temperatures. Others say nope, there's more to it than that. All I can say is diamond wheels are spit cheap. I had spares so ignored it & have been dressing M35 HSS drills, my expendable practice set. Its 'working, but I don't know for how long. Another subject is how to expose fresh diamond because the 'brown' wheel is diamond particles within a solid binder as opposed to electroplated on a metal wheel... but I'm getting off topic. If it were me buying the Vevor & happy with results, I'd get some spare CBN wheels to sleep better.

View attachment 56921

as with anything from china do your due diligence.

I've found that the wheels I've bought were as advertised cbn or diamond on electroplated and resin bonded wheels and they've compared well to the premium wheels I have from NA manufacturers