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Tool Tubing Bender

Tool

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
BTW. The tool flaring kit is back on the way to Amazon with a printed label so return shipping by Canada Post was free. The help email from the user manual also replied and offered to refund without return. My position with them was quite simple. Tubing is measured by OD and I bought their metric set because it also had 1/4" and 1/2" capabilities. But all their measurements are for Pipe ID and a 10mm isn't close enough to create good doubled flares.
It didn't feel right to request money and not return it even if Amazon just chucks it.
 

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
Have you had the tube between the head and the tank off yet? I took mine off today to verify the fitting and the thing is using compression fittings. The one one the head is a normal brass compression but the one on the tank is a rubber seal/grommet instead of a brass or flare fitting.
I may change the head fitting to a flare so I can use a hose but I'm not sure what I'll do with the tank fitting as it also has the pressure control connection built in.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Have you had the tube between the head and the tank off yet? I took mine off today to verify the fitting and the thing is using compression fittings. The one one the head is a normal brass compression but the one on the tank is a rubber seal/grommet instead of a brass or flare fitting.
I may change the head fitting to a flare so I can use a hose but I'm not sure what I'll do with the tank fitting as it also has the pressure control connection built in.
See first photo in posting #22. Brake line like double flare fittings on both ends.
 

Larry_C9

Super User
Premium Member
Thinking about the tank side I should be able to just add a flare fitting to the existing and go from there.
I don't think you want to put a ridged fitting on both ends of that tube. The one you have now with the neoprene seal is probably there to allow for some vibration. Two ridged fittings my cause the tube to crack after a while. If you go with a hose make sure it will stand quit a bit of temperature. The outlet from the air compressor gets quit hot. Probably why they usually use a tube there when they build them.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Chris M. brought over his VEVOR hydraulic flare kit. OMG. Wow. Easy to use. Makes beautiful double flares.
Big thanks for the loan.
Can't wait until the package of 4 nuts arrives next week. Then I can finish the air compressor upgrade.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
I've decided I also want to know more with respect to the compressor so I've ordered a couple of these. I may also order a couple of thermisters to track the temperatures into and out of the cooler plus a photocell to determine if the shop lights are on. If off then don't allow the compressor to run.
1716792842622.png
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
If off then don't allow the compressor to run.

You are too invested in automation. You put WAAAAY too much smarts in your machines. AI is watching you know! One of these days you will go out to the shop and find your air compressor doing the tango with your mill..... Then the self replication algorithms kick in....
 

djberta

Active Member
Premium Member
I've decided I also want to know more with respect to the compressor so I've ordered a couple of these. I may also order a couple of thermisters to track the temperatures into and out of the cooler plus a photocell to determine if the shop lights are on. If off then don't allow the compressor to run.
View attachment 48284
That transducer may give you trouble. Compressors can spike pretty high when the mechanical switch shuts off the motor. I used to use 300psi ones From omega. What are you connecting to. Are you using a plc, rpi, esp32? You can use esphome to monitor, there is a couple examples of people doing this. If you use an ESP you can use a voltage divider to drop the 5v to 2v for the analog input. For temp I like the max6675 boards can get them with a stainless thermocouple.
Just an example. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/compressed-air-sensor/216470/8

Love the idea of monitoring the compressor.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
That transducer may give you trouble. Compressors can spike pretty high when the mechanical switch shuts off the motor. I used to use 300psi ones From omega. What are you connecting to. Are you using a plc, rpi, esp32? You can use esphome to monitor, there is a couple examples of people doing this. If you use an ESP you can use a voltage divider to drop the 5v to 2v for the analog input. For temp I like the max6675 boards can get them with a stainless thermocouple.
Just an example. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/compressed-air-sensor/216470/8

Love the idea of monitoring the compressor.
I want to measure the tank pressure, not the compressor. The volume in the tank should prevent the spikes. If not I'm hooped likely.
There are some original prototypes of these:
1716828510227.png
I'm using one for the Power Draw Bar controller.
They have two Thermister inputs so I can measure temperature on either side of the radiator. Analogue for the pressure transducer and a photo cell for ambient light. Some relay output drivers or dip relays to allow the compressor to run.

And best of all CAN bus with CANopen protocol to tie all this stuff together. I could program the LinuxCNC system to throw up a fault if the air compressor doesn't have air for the mist cooling.

What can I say? It's the type of stuff I do for work work.
 

djberta

Active Member
Premium Member
I want to measure the tank pressure, not the compressor. The volume in the tank should prevent the spikes. If not I'm hooped likely.
There are some original prototypes of these:
View attachment 48285
I'm using one for the Power Draw Bar controller.
They have two Thermister inputs so I can measure temperature on either side of the radiator. Analogue for the pressure transducer and a photo cell for ambient light. Some relay output drivers or dip relays to allow the compressor to run.

And best of all CAN bus with CANopen protocol to tie all this stuff together. I could program the LinuxCNC system to throw up a fault if the air compressor doesn't have air for the mist cooling.

What can I say? It's the type of stuff I do for work work.
Very cool, keep posting. We used similar housings at my one job with a Delphi 24 pin connector. rp2040 for wifi, custom board to control our heating units remotely. Like the idea having it go back to your linuxcnc System.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Very cool, keep posting. We used similar housings at my one job with a Delphi 24 pin connector. rp2040 for wifi, custom board to control our heating units remotely. Like the idea having it go back to your linuxcnc System.
I was involved in a different project that used the same housing with the single connector. Had a Raspberry PiZero with WiFi, a cell net module, GPS and a PIC32 that interfaced to the Hydrogen Powered car CAN bus. Logged data from power up and put it up into the cloud.

1716874001640.png

Great little box.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Chris M. brought over his VEVOR hydraulic flare kit. OMG. Wow. Easy to use. Makes beautiful double flares.
Big thanks for the loan.
Can't wait until the package of 4 nuts arrives next week. Then I can finish the air compressor upgrade.
Well. The tubing nuts have arrived right on schedule. And it looks like they will fit just great.
1716942538400.png
However the schedule has been mucked up because work-work is taking longer than I expected. And it has priority.

The last time a project got delegated to #42, because of work-work, I never restarted it because after the work-work was done I started a new one on line #42 of the project list.

It's rough being the only person who ever does this.
 

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
I'll find out next week when my stuff comes in if the hoses will work.
Update - Using hose off the head isn't going to work. To get a hose with a high enough temperature rating meant going to a hydraulic hose and what is available to me isn't very flexible so copper it is. I did use airhose from the bottom of the cooler to the filter because I had the fittings and hose but went with copper for the other two lines. I was in Duncan the other day so I stopped by @Larry_C9 and bought his pipe bender, worked good after the initial learning curve.

1717172941894.jpeg 1717172977860.jpeg
Once all is working I'll button up the cooler and get rid of the clamps.
Now I'm waiting for the replacement filter as the first one is hooped, the drain doesn't seal.
 

DavidR8

Scrap maker
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
Update - Using hose off the head isn't going to work. To get a hose with a high enough temperature rating meant going to a hydraulic hose and what is available to me isn't very flexible so copper it is. I did use airhose from the bottom of the cooler to the filter because I had the fittings and hose but went with copper for the other two lines. I was in Duncan the other day so I stopped by @Larry_C9 and bought his pipe bender, worked good after the initial learning curve.

View attachment 48371View attachment 48372
Once all is working I'll button up the cooler and get rid of the clamps.
Now I'm waiting for the replacement filter as the first one is hooped, the drain doesn't seal.
Nice work!
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Update - Using hose off the head isn't going to work. To get a hose with a high enough temperature rating meant going to a hydraulic hose and what is available to me isn't very flexible so copper it is. I did use airhose from the bottom of the cooler to the filter because I had the fittings and hose but went with copper for the other two lines. I was in Duncan the other day so I stopped by @Larry_C9 and bought his pipe bender, worked good after the initial learning curve.

View attachment 48371View attachment 48372
Once all is working I'll button up the cooler and get rid of the clamps.
Now I'm waiting for the replacement filter as the first one is hooped, the drain doesn't seal.
Wow! Nicely done. Question. What fittings went into your motor or did you replace them?
 

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
Thanks guys, the head and tank fittings are compression fittings so I just used new ones. I'll keep the original piping in case the cooler needs to be bypassed or removed.
 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
Thanks guys, the head and tank fittings are compression fittings so I just used new ones. I'll keep the original piping in case the cooler needs to be bypassed or removed.
The ones with the brass compression sleeve that slides onto the pipe? That would have made my life so much easier.
 
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