Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
Just stumbled on this this morning. Nice easy solution to polish these cheap import diamond wheels.
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Shop Truing up Diamond cup wheels
- Thread starter Dan Dubeau
- Start date
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Did you choose the word "polish" intentionally Dan, or did you mean "dress"?
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
"polish" the diamond.....Intentional word play, but yes, you are functionally redressing the wheel.
Thanks for checking. English is sometimes my second language......
Thanks for checking. English is sometimes my second language......
Re: The video on how to clean up (dress) the faces on your diamond grinding wheel.
You don't have to make any cover for the indicator stylus. You can use a piece of thin blue tempered spring steel set between (and taped to) the stylus of your indicator and the diamond wheel face when indicating the diamond wheel. This will prevent the wheel from grinding any flat on your indicator stylus.
You don't have to make any cover for the indicator stylus. You can use a piece of thin blue tempered spring steel set between (and taped to) the stylus of your indicator and the diamond wheel face when indicating the diamond wheel. This will prevent the wheel from grinding any flat on your indicator stylus.
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Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
This is what I do whenever I have to indicate off a rough/abrasive surface.
Just a couple dabs of super glue and a thin feeler shim stuck to the bottom dovetail. Works great.
Well, after watching that video I took a look at my collection of wobbly wheels. To my horror there were 8 that I had put aside for various reasons. The Quorn grinder doesn't like an out of balance wheel - so these had been tossed in the Tuit drawer.
About an hour later I had a perfectly (~0.0002") true arbor to mount the wheels onto. The cheapies have bores from 19.82mm to 20.3mm so there's another issue.
I used an old oilstone, probably 120 grit and flooded the job with soluble oil, spindle at 80RPM and moderate quill pressure.
After a few passes, the intermittent cutting noise became steady, showing that the wheel was cutting evenly. With the coolant flooding the work, there is a small meniscus between the wheel and the stone - if you watch that carefully, it stops panting as the wheel levels out. When its no longer moving, the job is finished.
I also touched up the edge which was off by a few thou.
The finish is excellent!
As a bonus the old oilstone is now perfectly flat, albeit a bit thinner.
About an hour later I had a perfectly (~0.0002") true arbor to mount the wheels onto. The cheapies have bores from 19.82mm to 20.3mm so there's another issue.
I used an old oilstone, probably 120 grit and flooded the job with soluble oil, spindle at 80RPM and moderate quill pressure.
After a few passes, the intermittent cutting noise became steady, showing that the wheel was cutting evenly. With the coolant flooding the work, there is a small meniscus between the wheel and the stone - if you watch that carefully, it stops panting as the wheel levels out. When its no longer moving, the job is finished.
I also touched up the edge which was off by a few thou.
The finish is excellent!
As a bonus the old oilstone is now perfectly flat, albeit a bit thinner.
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
Glad you gave it a try, and the results were positive.
