The basics

[kylemp]

I imagine most people already have an idea of what they need to complete a project but I thought I would post what I consider a basic set of tools in order to make "a part", although obviously "a part" is too vague..

The most important items you will end up having will be measuring equipment. Personally, I suggest the following for basic milling:

6" or 8" (or both) digital calipers - Mitutoyo or Starrett if at all possible. Once you try the good ones you will never go back.
Test indicator - Highest quality you can afford
Multiple dial indicators in your preferred units - Again, highest quality possible.
Micrometer set - 0 - 6" should do most work that you will need.
Machinist squares - Cheap is ok in this instance, until you really need the precision.
Machinist protractor and rules - Vital for angles
A machinist level - You have to start level to end level.

Setup:
A clamping set for your t-slots.
1-2-3 and 2-4-6 block sets
Parallel sets
V blocks for holding round parts
Transfer punches - A cheap set will do in most instances.
Sine plate or trunion table.
If you get a sine plate, gauges and machinist jacks.
A good milling vise, and a few tooling vises.
Edge finder
Full set of collets

Tooling, etc.
Decent drill index - These get expensive, but they're worth it..
Decent tap set - I have a few, my go to in the junk mastercraft set but it has most pieces and when I break a tap, I buy a good one. Keep in mind that nearly all sets are tapered taps, not bottoming taps. You need bottoming taps for blind holes.
Full endmill set
Boring head(s) and boring bars
Slitting saw and arbor.
Deburring tool
Emery cloth

Fluids:

Rapid-tap
Coolant
Machinist bluing


This is just suggestions, and not cheap.. it takes a lot of tools to make a "part" though. For more complex or precise parts you will need a lot more tooling.

 

[Jwest7788]

Great write up, I agree completely.

The above should be more than enough for a beginner to get rolling!

 

[Alexander]

Yeah this is a great article. I'll throw in my experience with dial indicators. About 9 years ago I bought a cheap STM dial indicator when I was a first year apprentice. I still use that one at home and it's brilliant. I bought a mitutoyo dial indicator for work because I wanted the best, but it is so dam delicate it is already trash two years later. They put a pathetic plastic bezel around the dial and once that is broken the whole unit really starts falling apart. The mitutoyo is not well designed at all. I have in the past dialled in 3200lb piece of tool steel with a cheap dial indicator from China. Because it is a comparative measuring tool if you use comon sense and check it using the machine movements from time to time it will work fine. My friends that machine for Halliburton oil company even swear by their Power Fist dial indicators. Admittedly every tool I own for work is Mitutoyo but It doesn't need to be. Because we are all hobby machinists machining from home is rewarding even with basic second hand meashuring tools.

 

[Rick Runciman]

When it comes to dials,, imho, the cheaper the better,, they get dropped, and fall in lathes, but I still have 2 nice tecloks in my tool box.

 

[Jwest7788]

When it comes to dials,, imho, the cheaper the better,, they get dropped, and fall in lathes, but I still have 2 nice tecloks in my tool box.

Has anyone ever compared cheap vs quality dials? I wonder how different they measure at first, vs years in?

 

[Rick Runciman]

They all break just as easy, your choice as to what you like.

 

[PeterT]

'Real' machinists have way more experience than me. I've had some el-cheapo dials which were perfectly fine from a measurement perspective & good bang for buck. The harder part is hitting that dimension on the machine But as I think back when I bought them, that was also the era for whatever reason an offshore tool was say 100$ and a big boy Starrett or Mitutoyo was $300. But it almost seems lately the entry level stuff has escalated to say $150-200 & brand-name stuff remained the same price or maybe even less. Maybe its currency, or middlemen, or I'm just wrong. Also, what used to be a USA Starrett could now be made in China anyway, maybe under quality control, maybe variable.

I bought an Asian knockoff bore gage for my engine build recently & that that taught me something. It was actually pretty crappy. Maybe bad luck. The plastic lens popped off & actually was slightly mis-sized to the body. The anvils were sloppy & variable fit. The plunger mechanism had a gritty, sticky feel to it even after a light alcohol swab & drop of instrument oil. The screws looked like cheesy hardware store stuff. Cosmetics I could deal with but bottom line is it wouldn't repeat to within 0.001" on exact same test pieces, despite being 0.0005" resolution. They can (and will) print any spec on a label. So I returned it & bought a Mitutoyo that came on sale, maybe paid 35% over the clone. The difference was night & day in every regard. Its a pleasure to use & hopefully the last one I'll buy. So if money were no object I'd be a brand name fan boy. But money is an object so I'd like to say I'm selective where it counts. It's a personal decision. My cheapo 60$ set of Asian parallels measure as accurately as my best mic reads, so I'm not looking at the USA 300$ set.

I'm convinced there are good deals on ebay for brand name stuff. The example 300$ USA set might come up for $75. Problem is, so hard to determine wear & tear looking at a picture & BS description, its a crap shoot. Some people buy & sell until they eventually derive what they want. I recently came across Asimeto line & it seemed not bad. If I understand correct, its kind of closely designed after Mitutoyo, but mid-level pricing (whatever that means) quality control & decent warranty policy. Mostly I try & wait for sales.

 

[BradH]

I have two Tetlock dials that I use a fair bit. They were used when I got them.

I bought a metric "Draper Professional" 25mm dial from the UK. Disappointed (and not surprised) when the plastic back broke. Mind you, there were extenuating circumstances.... but I shall say no more about that. The DTI that cam in the kit seems decent. The Draper still works - going to turn a back for it.

I have a nice English dial indicator that - I think - does 0.005" - don't use it much at present, but will do...

I also have a nice little "Fowler" metric with a short stroke. I love that little indicator.

I have a metric Mitutoyo, bought used, and as folks have mentioned - the lenses fall out. PIA.

I am going to buy two Craftex dials for $18 on sale this week... for a project. They will be dedicated.

Oh, and I just bought a wonderful FTC (Fowler Tool Company) 2" stroke dial. Now I need a 50mm one to match. And maybe a couple more...

Maybe I have an obsession with dials.

How about stands?? I have the typical uncomfortable two post ones, and a mighty mag knock off. Would like a gooseeneck or Noga.

B

 

[Alexander]

I took a picture of 2 dials to illustrate the deference between Japan and China. On the right is a relativley expensive mitutoyo on the left $20 STM el cheap O. Notice how wimpy the STM parts are compared to the Japanese dial.