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Tapping arm discussion

re taping with a hand held drill. As probably most know drill chucks don't do well because they rely on getting a bit of a bite into softer material and tap shanks are hard. It wouldn't take much to create a tap holder.....bore to fit the tap and then a set screw on the tap's square end. tap diameters afaik are in a few standard sizes so it wouldn't take a lot of them. I've only done so in electrical cabinets with a cordless drill - for that, its not going to work except for the smaller size (too much torque required for larger)

I also think unless it is fairly thin material you're going into, which is somewhat forgiving on alignment, its likely to break taps especially in the smaller sizes the drill is likely to have enough umph to drive. Maybe you can make it work, but seems to me its near impossible to for squareness in two planes will power taping
They make tap sockets, you could use a socket driver in the drill with one
 
The quality and type of tap will also play a big part. Spiral taps are great, generic mastercraft taps are garbage these days..
 
I think for a tapping arm to work well the tap needs to be held accurately straight to the hole. Some tap arms appear to me to perhaps have flex and would not be accurate. If the tap was at 91 or 89 degrees how bad would that be?
 
If you're using a 1" tap and the arm can flex, but take the torque reaction, it would probably be ok at 91...it would straigthen out. A 1/4-20 tap, not so much...
 
The little machine shop tapping chuck is adjustable for different sized taps. It does not seem to have any ability to 'float'. Other tap chucks on amazon for eg claim to have float but seem to require a different collet for each tap size - also the asian ones seem to only have metric sizes available. How important is 'floating'? I've done some tapping in my cnc mill - often busting taps. Usually the problem is the size of the hole required for the type of tap (cutting taps vs form/roll taps) I am using. if you get it wrong then I think a broken tap is inevitable. You can't feel the tap of course when it is in the machine. Perhaps I should try to tap the hole first manually with the same tap to gauge the force required to turn the tap? Would a 'floating' tap holder help prevent tap breakage?
 
The little machine shop tapping chuck is adjustable for different sized taps. It does not seem to have any ability to 'float'. Other tap chucks on amazon for eg claim to have float but seem to require a different collet for each tap size - also the asian ones seem to only have metric sizes available. How important is 'floating'? I've done some tapping in my cnc mill - often busting taps. Usually the problem is the size of the hole required for the type of tap (cutting taps vs form/roll taps) I am using. if you get it wrong then I think a broken tap is inevitable. You can't feel the tap of course when it is in the machine. Perhaps I should try to tap the hole first manually with the same tap to gauge the force required to turn the tap? Would a 'floating' tap holder help prevent tap breakage?
Years ago I was tapping a blind 6-32 hole (about 800 of the $&@#%*). Ended up buying and using a tapping head on the mill. The float is important as it ensures alignment. I ended up using forming taps as they produce very little scarf with a 50% thread depth (form taps produce a stronger thread), compared to about 70% for cut.

Learning curve was about $200.00 in broken taps till I got it consistant.

Now I avoid blind holes when ever possible specially in more than a few holes where manual application is time prohibitive.
 
Just copied some of these posts to a new thread on tapping arms. Tapping arms are interesting. I’d like to know more and see peoples ideas on building t..

That is nice but can you start those threads with a reference post ie "This thread will carry on from this thread "...." please?

I kept looking for page zero to figure why the thread was starting in the middle of a conversation. :rolleyes:.

A good segue....
 
I already asked that question earlier, to no response. The original (my) post (from the you tube thread) makes zero sense in the context of this thread. I'm not sure why a new discussion on tapping arms wasn't just started from scratch.
 
I guess it is not necessary for those that follow every thread but I don't. And when I did a search for "tapping" , I felt like I was missing pages. Eventually, a quote lead me to the other one. Not a big deal. Glad I am not the only one though.
 
Just so I have an on topic post in this thread....lol. Here's some tap holders I made quite a few years ago. I made them to be used in a 12v hitachi hex driver (not impact) that has gone to the big tool graveyard in the sky (actually it's on my workbench waiting for me to get the time to replace the burned out brushes in it if I can).

Top to bottom is 1/4-20 all the way down to 4-40 and it will hold a 2-56. The hitachi was amazingly nimble enough to power tap a 4-40 no problem (If I did my job). 1/4-20 was pushing it sometimes depending on material, and the freshness of the tap, but it was doable (probably what smoked it :) ). I usually use my 18v makita drill for that, and bigger taps.

CeqNgJzl.jpg

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I originally made a pile of these blank hex adapters from some 3/8" o1, for a right angle hex driver I had for things like drills and countersinks etc to get into tight places at work. I got the bright idea for these, then made a set. I pursued a patent idea back at the time, but deemed it really not worthwhile (I was broke and didn't have the money to do so....). The small round bit poking out the end was inserted after so they would fit better in my hitachi driver. I've used these also in the right angle driver, and along with 1/4" hex extensions to get into tricky spots (think pulley tap).

It's really just a hole with an intersecting slot the width of your square drive. As you can see on the 5mm on (2nd from top) I had to prick punch the bottom to provide a bit of snap fit on some of them. Otherwise the fit was great, and they don't fall out despite being easy to swap in and out for different taps.

I want to make another set along with a floating holder for my tormach, but just haven't got around to it yet. Same idea, just a different interface.

With the boom of 1/4" hex impact drivers maybe I should pursue selling these to a tap manufacturer. The could not only sell these, but would sell more taps due to people tapping with an impact driver lol.
 
Not sure why you chose my post from the other thread to start this one, instead of just starting a fresh thread. It contained zero info or context regarding tapping arms or questions about them, and if I had the option I'd edit it, or delete it altogether. Speaking of which, does this forum not allow one to edit posts?
I edited the first post so it makes a little more sense. If you become a premium member post editing is included. It's $5/month.
 
I edited the first post so it makes a little more sense. If you become a premium member post editing is included. It's $5/month.
That is better @Janger . Thank you. Would be awesome to actually paste the other thread in there, but beggars won't be whiners.....I will take what I can get.

As for the ability to edit....yea,...... Thanks to typos, grammar, and after thoughts, worth every penny....;)
 
Well, I didn't make plans, but TBH I don't think they really need any. The critical dimensions are the diameter of the hole to fit the taps (just drilled), and the cross slot. I guess the 1/4" hex is too. Those are easy to measure from a tap in your hand, and from there easy to sketch the placement of the cross slot. Nothing is really all that critical. As you can see from mine, they were just made from scrap pieces of random sizes. Trust me, they were not that hard to make, as I was a very green machinist when I made them lol.

IMO the hex would be the hardest part and would require a collet block, or other indexing device. Followed by the cross slot. I was cutting some hex gauge pins one day in the CNC, and just decided on a whim to cut a few extra hex adapters for yet to be named accessories back when I made mine. A few months went by before I got the idea to turn them into tap holders. I should probably make some more, as I wish I had them at home sometimes. The problem of being a machinist by day, and also having a home shop is you need 2 of everything lol.
 
I updated to premium membership but I can't edit a few posts I desperately need to edit.

Do I need to log out and then back in or do I misunderstand how the editing feature works?
I'm expecting that to work immediately... Log out and log back in? Please let me know? @Jwest7788 heads up here...

You should see edit button as below.
1643771897153.webp
 
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