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Swage blocks.

Maybe it's worth enquiring what a foundry would charge to pour your design? Maybe supply the mold rather than them having to make it.....
 
I have a steady rest i need to copy. I was thinking i'd see what Windy hill would charge to cast me one. Clarke does nice work.
 
I watched that video, in every video of blacksmithing a skillet the Smith uses a mold, a hollow stump or a swage block.
 
Chris Cramer said:
I watched that video, in every video of blacksmithing a skillet the Smith uses a mold, a hollow stump or a swage block.
Click to expand...
Could you forge a piece of 3/8" x 2" flat bar into an arc and then grind a bevel on the bottom of it and then weld the arc to the piece of 1/2" plate that you have. This would yield a form that would resemble the cross section of a skillet.
 
I did have in mind to cut the cross section out of my 14 inch by 1inch round plate creating a ring with a bevel on the inner corner the same angle as the skillet to give me something that would keep the outside uniform.
 
Richard Dehaas from MA steel foundry told Mr that there is too much detail in my design for him to cast it. He recommended that I contact metro machine works here in Calgary to machine it for me. He told me that they would be able to get the stock that is needed to machine it.

I asked for a quote and I'm not too confident that it would be very affordable, by how heavy it is. If I could find the stock some place, I would ask John for some help machining it.
 
Chris Cramer said:
What machines do you have?
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If you're asking me, I hace an Emco V13 lathe. I am copying a steady rest for it. I borrowed one to copy from my friend in Alabama, and he probably wants his back soon. I thought I would have it cast, but it seems like it would be too expensive. I was thinking he could make the mold from the steady. I'd have to build a wooden pattern to send him first. Might as well just carve it out on the mill.
 
Years ago I made some wooden patterns for casting aluminum, most places will cast if you provide the patterns.

For aluminum you need to allow about 2 - 5% oversized to allow for shinkage while cooling. Not sure what the shrinkage is for cast iron.

Some Important things to remember:

Is to index male and female patterns the same way and location.

As your forge what size boxes they use to ensure you to leave them a correct sized base.

Add slight tapers to the pattern to allow removal from sand.

Seal your pattern with varnish and polish as smooth as you can get it, give a better cast finish.

I got asked to become a professional pattern maker after my first pattern, I turned it down.
 
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