Stand Design for benchtop Mill version 2- looking for feedback

[StevSmar]

Why not just drill a hole and bolt through the top cross members, save yourself the weight, money, and work

I could, and that’s probably an easier way. But I think I’ll put the angles in because I’m not concerned about the work and cost, and I’d like the extra weight.

(I may regret that comment about wanting the extra weight when I try to move the stand into the basement… Something tells me it’s going to weigh far more than I anticipated)
(Hmmm, perhaps I should weigh all the parts before I weld them together…)

 

[phaxtris]

I could, and that’s probably an easier way. But I think I’ll put the angles in because I’m not concerned about the work and cost, and I’d like the extra weight.

(I may regret that comment about wanting the extra weight when I try to move the stand into the basement… Something tells me it’s going to weigh far more than I anticipated)
(Hmmm, perhaps I should weigh all the parts before I weld them together…)

ha, yea all that 1/4 tube is going to add up fast

 

[LenVW]

I’m hoping… that the rear panel will largely stop any twisting. Since I’m now going to weld it together (I remembered to check the widths of the door from the garage…), that should make it nice and rigid (fingers crossed).

If it has troubles, then I’ll put another cross brace at the front and some side braces (essentially making that drawer narrower due to the braces).

I think it’s almost time to start cutting steel! I’m hoping I can put the frame together over Christmas.

Thanks for the feedback @LenVW

I have used weldments in a lot of projects, but, I tried to incorporate bolted sections as well.
It leaves you with options to disassemble and reconfigure if the future bring add-on options.
Post some photos as you progress. Happy Holidays !!

 

[Proxule]

When I built my first mill stand for my RF45 about 15 years ago, I used 3x3 HSS tube and filled the vertical legs with cement.
Cost was nothing and added weight plus some dampening !
nice work and gluck!
I am jealous lol

 

[LenVW]

It is important to have a heavy, solid base for your machine.
If you don’t have a ‘boat anchor’ casting . . . You can simulate one by filling hollow frame elements with concrete. It will absorb a lot of vibration and make the mill more stable.

I once designed a machine frame with 10 x 6 x 3/8” wall HSS Beams. The guys I had cutting the beams thought I was crazy. Then I got them to weld a 5/8” x 8” Flat Bar to the top and bottom of the 4 main HSS Beams.
The frame had to support two 10,000 lb mould carriages and maintain a maximum deflection of 0.015” anywhere along the 12 ft length of the frame.

Heavy frame elements stabilize a machine, especially when taking a deep cut.
Watch those chips fly !!

 

[StevSmar]

Thank-you for all the feedback!!! It sure is nice being able to ask questions and get opinions!

I’m ready to start ordering steel:



(No, the above is auto generated, I’m not thinking of this many colours. Though I definitely am tempted…)

 

[phaxtris]

(No, the above is auto generated, I’m not thinking of this many colours. Though I definitely am tempted…)

It could be the national pride mill stand....maybe you could get a grant for the construction

 

[Tom O]

So your saying that its bi design made to stand up or lay down?

 

[StevSmar]

It’s my “stand of many colours”

(said with Dolly Partens “Coat of Many Colours” now going through my head…)

(Oh my god!, I just typed “Coat” into YouTube to check the spelling of her name and the first suggestion was Dolly Partons video… The walls are listening…LOL)

 

[StevSmar]

… its bi design made to stand up or lay down?

As long as it rigidly supports my mill, I’m Not fussy over it happening standing or laying down.

 

[Tom O]

Of course the walls are listening to prove it go on facebook and see what someone wants you see to in their post.