Oh I have a couple of those, as well as two air riveters. But I have to behave for a while, I smuggled this into the shop this week...
View attachment 7511
What is it?
Oh I have a couple of those, as well as two air riveters. But I have to behave for a while, I smuggled this into the shop this week...
View attachment 7511
It's a power bead roller. I had a older one I was borrowing for years but had to give it back. If you Google Bead Roller Art you'll see what it does. Lots of fun with sheet metal. Just making a stand now as the old one bolted to the workbench but this one is a lot bigger.What is it?
Ok-It's a power bead roller. I had a older one I was borrowing for years but had to give it back. If you Google Bead Roller Art you'll see what it does. Lots of fun with sheet metal. Just making a stand now as the old one bolted to the workbench but this one is a lot bigger.
Ok-
Does bead rolling really add that much strength or are you just better off starting with thicker material?
That’s really cool to learn about, thanks. I’ll check out the link to LazzeIt's the difference between night and day. Huge amounts of strength. There's actually a whole area of materials science devoted to bead rolling and strengthening materials by shrinking and stretching. It really took off with the air force and the need for long range bombers that could breach the Mid-Altantic Gap during WWII. As great a material as aluminum was, they still needed to reduce weight. Bomber design evolved and that's why you see an increase in the use of dimple dies and bead rolling on aircraft of the time. To reach the German wolf packs engineers needed to reduce weight of aircraft, but still have strong structures. If fact, if you look at 1940's bomber seats, you see how great they look, but it was actually due to design and the need to reduce weight.
Bead rolling, dimple dies, etc., all add strength and reduce weight when used properly. The artistic stuff came later. It you look at the work of Jamey Jordan (http://www.handmadeseatco.com/) who specializes in seats, you see the evolution of design and art in the metal. Modern truck beds or firewalls made of aluminum or ever thiner gauge steel are all possible because of bead rolling or engineered stamp/flange forming of materials. Using non-destructive testing you can now add a bead or bend, look at the material under stress and see how it is stronger. Really cool stuff for geeky engineering people. There a fellow name Lazze on the internet who teaches how to make panels stronger with bead rollers and other machine. It's like his brain is hard wired for this stuff, and he just "gets it." (https://www.youtube.com/user/lazzemetalshaping). Amazing man to listen to.
Depending how it is designed, a properly rolled 20 gauge panel will actually be stronger than an unrolled 18 or thicker gauge panel. In the case of something like floor pans, the interior beads put the panel under stress and form mini "reinforcing lines" within the panel. It's like having welded tiny I beams across the panel, but with no added weight.
I don't pretend to be as competent as any of these guys, but even with my old hand crank bead roller I could make some cool stuff. I think it's a little like playing the saxophone; anyone can learn a few cool songs, but it takes a lifetime of practice to get really good at it.
Darn Peter, you're in deep..... a fellow name Lazze on the internet who teaches how to make panels
Ball turner project number 697 in the que.
A Z bend is just one type bead you can make on a bead roller.That’s really cool to learn about, thanks. I’ll check out the link to Lazze
What’s the difference in strength between a bead roll and a “z” shape?
Holy mackerel, talk about a Pandora’s box...A Z bend is just one type bead you can make on a bead roller.
Typically it is made on a press for thicker metals (above 16 gauge). But it can be bead rolled usually up to 16 gauge. On a bead roller sometimes this is called a flange bend. Bead rollers have many, many different shapes of beads. You just change the dies to get a different profile, or do different things like put a hem on the edge of sheet metal. If you have a lathe, you can make your own dies—it's fun. I make Delrin soft dies sometimes as they don't scratch the metal like steel does and are good for artwork. Here's some examples of some bead roll die profiles: https://www.mittlerbros.com/mittler-bros/bead-rollers/standard-bead-rolls.html
Typically, making a flange (Z bend) involves a stepping die, These come in hard (90 degree) or soft (45 degree) steps or profiles. You can use them to fit two pieces of sheet together for a body panel, then weld and sand the seam so it is invisible. I prefer softer 45 degree step dies to make Z bends or flanges because the transition from one sheet to another when you weld is smoother. You get a wider seam too that you can apply patina on and make some nice artwork. As far as I know there is no strength difference between a Z bend done on a press and those done on a bead roller (or it's stubby length brother called a "Flange Roller").
Some companies even make custom dies with barbed wire or chain patterns: https://www.mittlerbros.com/mittler-bros/bead-rollers/gold-series.html
Z bends are commonly used on body panel work. The seams these days are typically spot welded at intervals and then Bondo-ed and sanded. A advantage of the bead roller for Z bends or flange bending is that it is infinite: you can do any length unlike a press. Best of all you can do any shape of curve—something you can't do on a press.
If you are into steampunk art, a cool thing a bead roller is used for is to make the flanges (Z bends) and then solid rivet the sheets together. It looks great: https://www.shutterstock.com/image-vector/riveted-steel-rivets-screws-metal-background-322266767
Holy mackerel, talk about a Pandora’s box...
Ok- picture a rectangular piece of steel. 16g if you want to get specific.
If I place a z bend on the bottom of it, that really only strengthens the bottom section, right?
Using your floorpan example, if I wanted to strengthen the whole rectangle I would want to put bead rolls around the rectangle, right?
I wish I could hire you to build me parts!
Yup, the custom dies certainly are. But depending on the machine dies can be interchangeable across brands and you can by 3rd party ones for 30 bucks or so. Some companies cross-license their profiles as well. A lot of small hot rod companies in the USA who want to stand out will commission custom dies and then run them on stock panels. They then jack the price through the roof and keep the profit. Pays for itself in one job I expect.https://www.mittlerbros.com/mittler-bros/bead-rollers/gold-series.html
Kind of spendy for a hobby gig!
Right. You got it.
In your example, a Z bead is an option, but I'd put it around the entire panel as you figured out. You'd use a step roll profile bead for that, exactly what Kyle Voss does here (super interesting when you consider he'd only had his machine for a short period of time when he made this:
But another option is to use an interior bead (such as a round or square profile, or even straight lines). Here's Jamey Jordan doing essentially that as he discusses the best dies for starting out:
When you get really good at it you know what direction to put the lines in to make the metal curve into a beautiful wheel well or something similar.
I think you have to marry the machine to understand it that well, but guys like Lazze can do it.
View attachment 7515
That needs to get fixed at some point. It was flat with just a z bend on the bottom. 16g stainless, and hinges at the top.
In this case would putting a vertical row of the round beads helpstop it from bending? Like in the Jamey Jordan vid.
There’s a good 6” of clearance. I really don’t understand why it’s getting bent, that’s why it’s hinged.
What are we looking at here? It all looks bent to me?
Yep. License plate holderOk.... Is this something for your rig and it just hangs down hinged like that?