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spring connectors

Good to know! I'm borderline clueless on sparky stuff.
I'm guessing the wings are to add easier finger torque or some other purpose?
I thought read somewhere they don't even necessarily have to be metal inside, that's just how they evolved. But it maybe that was for completely different purpose.
 
Marrs or Marettes. Kind of old school now. I've got tons if you need them.

These work better.
 

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Ah, another option! I've seen those before. Once the wires click in, is that considered permanent or is there some kind of release?

PT where do you buy your electrical stuff like that in Calgary? I used to frequent MRO & they had lots of goodies, but seems like I'm rarely available during business hours.
 
PeterT said:
Ah, another option! I've seen those before. Once the wires click in, is that considered permanent or is there some kind of release?

PT where do you buy your electrical stuff like that in Calgary? I used to frequent MRO & they had lots of goodies, but seems like I'm rarely available during business hours.
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No release. They work great. I like them because they are permanent. Sometimes Marr connectors feel tight and secure and then they suddenly just fall off. I hate that. I switched first to the blue tabbed ones @Brent H mentioned because they can be tightened easier, but once I found these push types a few years ago I never went back. I've never used them on stranded wire though—but they are supposed to work just as well. I especially like them in vibration prone areas, such as motor housings. No electrical tape to wrap around like Marrs.

In Calgary Home Depot sells them in every store I've been in, even our small Tuscany one: https://www.homedepot.ca/search?q=wire push connectors#!q=wire push connectors
 
I've never used the ones pictured by CalgaryPT; I use the old screw-in Marrs a lot. Why I stayed away was because of the early version of them that used to be in the back of regular switches and outlets, where you'd strip a 1/2 inch section and just insert. Fixed a lot of fried fixtures because those type didn't work well in the long term.

I'm pretty sure the ones in post 5 are much better and completely different construction. They are used in industrial wiring installations inside motor boxes, etc. I haven't seen one fail yet. (I've just never used one myself)

@CalgaryPT do yours have a lever that folds over to make the connection? The industrial motor controllers seem to have this lever.
 
Dabbler said:
I've never used the ones pictured by CalgaryPT; I use the old screw-in Marrs a lot. Why I stayed away was because of the early version of them that used to be in the back of regular switches and outlets, where you'd strip a 1/2 inch section and just insert. Fixed a lot of fried fixtures because those type didn't work well in the long term.
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+1

In household wiring, I always felt it was a sign of cheap workmanship to see switches and outlets connected with the push-in option. Wrapped around a screw terminal or under a clamp plate was superior.

I've never seen those push-in connectors ("In-Sure"?). Sometimes electrical boxes are pretty full. Do these style connectors take more space or less?

Craig
 
You're right, WRT to cheap workmanship and the old switches. Electricians never used them because they were prone to failure. A City inspector once told me it was because there was less surface area to contact. If I recall (1980s?), it used to be against code to use the ones on the back of switches. But that was also in the aluminium wire days, and in those days the push in terminals on switches probably had to cater to both worlds. The "In-sures" these days can only be used on copper, not AL.

They must be better now (although more expensive than Marr connectors) as I see them used more often. I especially see them used in recessed LED fixtures. This answers your question about space. I think they use them in these smaller fixtures because they take up less space. They certainly are neater.

And BTW, I was wrong about reusability. I just read the instructions more closely on a package of push in types. Apparently there is a way to reuse them by twisting the wire out—but only for solid wire.

No lever @Dabbler ...the wires just push in and (apparently) can be pulled out with a special movement.

The only drawback I can see from them (assuming they work as well as Marrs) is weatherproofing. I know guys who make rockclimber vehicles and they routinely put heat shrink around the connections to protect them. In that kind of vibration prone environment I'd use NASA splices ONLY, solder and weatherproof heat shrink. But no way I'm cool enough to be a rock climber anyways, so I guess it doesn't matter.

I think Marrs will be around for long time still. But the In-sures are pretty neat and seem to take up less space as the number of splices increases. They are both UL and CSA approved, and I don't see any restriction on where there can be used. I will ask an electrician friend next time I see him and then update this thread.

Choices are good :)
 
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If you want to go ballistic with wire connections, we use some of theses on the ship - especially for the large horsepower motors (50 hp 600 v 3 phase type things)

BURNDYE00016_A51_PM_001.jpg

They have a socket head set screw in the one port and wire goes in the other. Insulated so the wire cannot short out - like a mini buss bar.

For other applications I like setting up a terminal strip on a din rail in a cabinet for multiple low voltage connections - like if I was wiring up new lathe controls that had safety switches, relays etc you can even add low amp trip breakers etc

If we are using the Marrettes, typically ours are the set screw type verses the twist on and then wrapped with self vulcanizing electrical tape.
 
Brent H said:
If you want to go ballistic with wire connections, we use some of theses on the ship - especially for the large horsepower motors (50 hp 600 v 3 phase type things)

View attachment 7283
They have a socket head set screw in the one port and wire goes in the other. Insulated so the wire cannot short out - like a mini buss bar.

For other applications I like setting up a terminal strip on a din rail in a cabinet for multiple low voltage connections - like if I was wiring up new lathe controls that had safety switches, relays etc you can even add low amp trip breakers etc

If we are using the Marrettes, typically ours are the set screw type verses the twist on and then wrapped with self vulcanizing electrical tape.
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Yeah, I bet on a ship everything has to be this scale of "bulletproofness," right? I always wanted a ship tour—not a cruise ship but a working ship. That must be so interesting to have to design with life threatening failure in mind.

Self vulcanizing tape is great, but expensive compared to vinyl for home use. Apparently there's some company that sells split loom type heat shrink tubing that has a self-vulcanizing strip on in it. You wrap it on (can be over existing splice) and activate it with a heat gun. I saw a post on an RC forum where a guy used it. But I can't find it anywhere. I'm sure it is expensive, but might be fun to try.

Thanks for your post. I love learning about stuff like this.
 
There is the heat shrink tubing that has a waterproofing adhesive in the liner that activates as you heat gun it - great stuff and does water proof the joined cables. Princess auto has it and you can buy heavier industrial stuff for more "ballistic" applications LOL - the gas guys use it to seal up joints in the splices and I have seen it used over crimp splices etc They also make crimp connectors with the heat shrink goo ready to go - great for small boat stuff to avoid corrosion on the connections.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/12-6-AWG-Heavy-Wall-Heat-Shrink-Tubing-Black-2-Pack-HWT-0020/205881685

https://www.amazon.ca/HOODDEAL-Waterproof-Solder-Connectors-Soldering/dp/B00ESXX74G
 
I called Electrical Wholesalers on a different matter. They don't carry the In-sure (although they are a distributor for Ideal). They do carry Wago though. Looks like a lever clamp mechanism. I guess the upside is maybe you can remove clamped wires vs. snipping the wire although PT indicates there might be a way to safely remove wires with In-Sure's. Wago's are more expensive though.

https://www.amazon.ca/WAGO-221-412-...ocphy=9001292&hvtargid=pla-349155026286&psc=1
 
On a similar topic, does anyone know how car companies do this trick to terminate wires temporarily (see pic below)? I have a F250 and it has a series of pass-through wires that go from under the dash through the firewall and terminate under the hood. They are either connected to upfitter switches, or in some cases just orphaned so you can get juice back and forth as needed. (Or as @PeterT calls it, "sparky stuff." Love that.)

I like the way these are terminated. Seems cheap, effective and neat. I've been trying to replicate for years. Clearly it is heat shrink tubing with I think either hot melt glue or silicon shot in the tip. The hot glue would make sense as it immediately would shrink the tubing. However, it is impossible to replicate this method except on the largest of wires and tubing. Trying to squirt the glue in means the tip of the gun melts the tubing right away. How do they do this? Do they use a magic hot glue syringe thingy or something? Or is it a special fast setting and expanding glue? I asked the Ford mechanic on my street and he doesn't know either.

I love the technique and would like to use it for a bunch of stuff. As I get older I try to plan more ahead and always run extra wires for future purposes. I'd can't figure how they get the glue in there. And now it's a mystery I have to solve.

truck.jpg
 
CalgaryPT said:
On a similar topic, does anyone know how car companies do this trick to terminate wires temporarily (see pic below)? I have a F250 and it has a series of pass-through wires that go from under the dash through the firewall and terminate under the hood. They are either connected to upfitter switches, or in some cases just orphaned so you can get juice back and forth as needed. (Or as @PeterT calls it, "sparky stuff." Love that.)

I like the way these are terminated. Seems cheap, effective and neat. I've been trying to replicate for years. Clearly it is heat shrink tubing with I think either hot melt glue or silicon shot in the tip. The hot glue would make sense as it immediately would shrink the tubing. However, it is impossible to replicate this method except on the largest of wires and tubing. Trying to squirt the glue in means the tip of the gun melts the tubing right away. How do they do this? Do they use a magic hot glue syringe thingy or something? Or is it a special fast setting and expanding glue? I asked the Ford mechanic on my street and he doesn't know either.

I love the technique and would like to use it for a bunch of stuff. As I get older I try to plan more ahead and always run extra wires for future purposes. I'd can't figure how they get the glue in there. And now it's a mystery I have to solve.

View attachment 7289
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https://www.grote.com/sub-family/dual-wall-31-heat-shrink-tubing/

Usually the dual wall has the glue inside it already
 
Kind of hard to see here under the kapton tape but what I do is over extend the heat shrink from the (in this case) 2 wires, maybe 10mm, use the heat gun to shrink as normal, but before it cools squeeze the excess shrink with flat pliers. The shrink adhesive is already activated so it sticks pretty good to itself. The odd time (under very hot environment) I have re-sealed joints that may have opened up with a bit of CA glue (crazy glue) in the gap & just pinch them for a sec, it bonds instantly. I have also seen the odd 'industrial' example similar to your vehicle what looks like plastic or silicon plug of the same wire gauge. Just assumed they just heat shrunk over a dummy ended something-er-other so they could get access to the lead end if necessary?
 

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CalgaryPT said:
Yup, agreed. But if you zoom in on these (sorry my pic isn't very good), it's clear there is something other than the wall adhesive inside it. It's oozing out as a white/clear rubbery substance. Feels exactly like hot melt or silicon.
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That could be. I’m not gonna argue about it.
I just know when I use heat shrink it comes out as a hot melted glue that helps seal things, under the layer that’s been shrunk

I do know the upfitter switches wiring you’re referring to, I have used them on one of my trucks. Possibly ford has a special source?

I just don’t see a way to inject hot glue under a piece of heat shrink? Maybe it’s do able?
 
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