I bought a handy dandy crimp kit with various terminals. The heat shrink seems quite good, reasonably thick, has a adhesive that activates when shrunk. Supposedly weather proof or whatever the advertisement said. And I'm happy with the crimp aspect. Mostly I've been using ring terminals but I needed to do make a spade connection. You can see the open gap of exposed metal where the electrons will leak out on the floor. First I thought it was a dud or maybe I over-shrunk. But (lower picture) this is what they look like just engaged. I think the shrink on the male spade should extend further. I cant pull the shrink any further because they neck it down in the middle crimp zone. Is this just bad QC or are they generically like this?
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Spade connector question
- Thread starter PeterT
- Start date
You have the correct female spade but not the insulated male. The insulated male actually goes all the way around the female. So you have half of the correct set. It’s very common in the more cost effective sets to have that issue. You can see the correct ones in the stakon catalog. Page B38, https://tnb.ca/en/pdf-catalogues/wire-termination/termination-products/B-Terminals_Products.pdf
Make sure they are rated for the job. If you’re doing AC voltage 120 or above make sure they are rated. Most of the crimps online are generally not rated at all or are rated for automotive 12VDC.
Make sure they are rated for the job. If you’re doing AC voltage 120 or above make sure they are rated. Most of the crimps online are generally not rated at all or are rated for automotive 12VDC.
Electrical connections are the bane of all manufacturers. I prefer permanent connections whenever possible.
If I had to do what you are doing, I'd prolly cut the supplied shrink off, install a new one that would cover both sides, make the connection and then shrink the new tube onto the connected fitting. If I ever had to take it apart, I'd cut the shrink off, and replace it when I reconnected.
I'm not too worried about leaking electrons (that was funny), but I am always worried about getting water in there, subsequent corrosion, and causing bad connections. Hence my bad attitude.
Just to explain a bit further. My employer used to send me all across Canada to examine every vehicle fire that happened that we knew about. With very few exceptions, they were caused by poor connections done when installing aftermarket equipment (radios, infotainment, remote start, fancy lighting, trailer tow, etc etc). I developed a very bad attitude toward poor connections. I totally completely despise those crappy pinch connectors they sell in the automotive section of stores coast to coast. If I had my way, they would all be illegal.
If I had to do what you are doing, I'd prolly cut the supplied shrink off, install a new one that would cover both sides, make the connection and then shrink the new tube onto the connected fitting. If I ever had to take it apart, I'd cut the shrink off, and replace it when I reconnected.
I'm not too worried about leaking electrons (that was funny), but I am always worried about getting water in there, subsequent corrosion, and causing bad connections. Hence my bad attitude.
Just to explain a bit further. My employer used to send me all across Canada to examine every vehicle fire that happened that we knew about. With very few exceptions, they were caused by poor connections done when installing aftermarket equipment (radios, infotainment, remote start, fancy lighting, trailer tow, etc etc). I developed a very bad attitude toward poor connections. I totally completely despise those crappy pinch connectors they sell in the automotive section of stores coast to coast. If I had my way, they would all be illegal.
historicalarms
Ultra Member
You have what trucker have used for decades to demonstrate their "electrical engineer genius" . It is meat to be used as a couple-uncouple joint at the installers/users discretion.
The plastic covering isnt "heat shrink" it is just an insulation covering to prevent accidental shorting.
The plastic covering isnt "heat shrink" it is just an insulation covering to prevent accidental shorting.
pdentrem
Ultra Member
I bought a kit off Amazon a few years ago. The metal is so soft that even with a full crimp the wires will pull out. I ended up cutting off the shrink tubes, soldering the wires in and new tubes.
Nowadays I go to a not so local electronics store, Nutech in St Catherine’s, and buy my terminals there.
Pierre
Nowadays I go to a not so local electronics store, Nutech in St Catherine’s, and buy my terminals there.
Pierre
Not sure if you are replying to me but these particular ones are most definitely heat shrink. That aspect is actually remarkably good. The material is 3x the thickness of regular heat shrink tubing & have an adhesive that gets activated like you typically see on tougher duty heat shrink. But because the shrink segment is pre-installed for convenience & cant be slipped down to adjust position, it doesn't leave me any options specifically on the spade connector.
It might be a QC issue on my kit. When I look at others it shows more shrink overhang on the female. So maybe the intent is engage them, heat the shrink (on both as an assembly) & it would make a more permanent overlap seal? If that's the case I don't think that lends itself to unplugging/re-plugging down the road. The shrink would probably distort or rip on the adhesive. This isn't anything mission critical, more of a general question.
I'm also familiar with the 'hard' plastic type crimps like these. Don't really care for them for other reasons, but those are not not heat shrink. Those are crimp & pray LOL
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Test a pair, perhaps with reheating you could remove and reconnect a pair.
On the stakon ones only the wire insulation end is shrinkable. You can see the line where the heat shrink ends. The connection ends don't shrink unless you really hit them with the heat gun, which is not what you want. I switched over to using Deutsch style connectors and weather pack years ago. As they do not have the pull apart issues and they are weather and corrosion resistant. I still use lots of stakon style ones but rarely for inline connections. Most of the spades are used for connections directly to switches or relays. In a pinch for the RV I have the solder shrink style butt connectors that is more in the woods repair. Having said that I have solder shrink ones that have lasted more then a decade on my flat deck.
I prefer using a Weatherpac fitting. Plugs and unplugs, but both sides seals with o-rings
They are real cost effective these days. We had some issues with delphi during covid. Deutsch are nice as well. Seal good.
That's ideal. That's what I try to use even when it's not a vehicular application. I did my whole boat and boat trailer with them. I'm slowly converting my farm equipment to use them too.