Tool South Bend 9A screws?

[oldtymers.kingston@gmail.]

I purchase the 9A in Picton On that was on Kijiji found by one of our members. It is a beautiful machine and in exceptional condition. The accessories and tooling were in the same excellent condition. Thanks. The sale of my Chinese lathe and some other shop stuff took the sting out of the asking price.
It has however one oddity in that it is an inch machine with metric direct reading scales on the cross and compound. My question is; do I have to find inch scale and swap them out or do the screws and scale have to be switched? My present option is to start trying to work in metric...... something I have resisted since the late 60's. I'm presently using a machinist's calculator when I get down to the final passes.
Advice would be appreciated.

 

[Susquatch]

Advice would be appreciated.

This is not an anomoly. There are other machines like that.

Converting it will be costly and not worth the effort in my opinion. I'd just learn to use it the way it is.

If it drives you nuts, look into installing a DRO. A DRO is a MUCH MORE COST EFFECTIVE solution that adds value and functionality.

 

[DavidR8]

Have to agree with @Susquatch. Converting to imperial dials will be expensive and if the cross slide and compound screws are in good shape any replacements are likely to be more worn.

 

[oldtymers.kingston@gmail.]

Thanks Guys. Advice taken, just have to buy a metric micrometer and think a little differently.

 

[OliverTO]

I have to disagree, the conversion is not that difficult or expensive (depending on what is expensive to you). If I understand correctly, the leadscrew and gearbox are imperial but the compound and cross slide are metric. First I would measure the thread on the two screws to make sure they are metric and that someone has not just switched dials. The compound screw is relatively easy to machine, you already have dimensions, just grind an acme tool and go nuts. The cross is more difficult as it has the powerfeed gear machined in it, however it is doable or many people cut of the threaded portion and reattach an new piece (many videos on youtube showing this). Imperial dials can be purchased for around $50 each. New nuts can also be purchased for around $50 each (the compound nut is easy to make). All in depending on your time and skill, it could be done for material cost if you were to machine all parts yourself, or a couple hundred it you make some parts yourself and purchase the rest. Converting with new parts would also eliminate any wear and backlash issues you may have. Of note, this would be a good time to consider a large dial conversion.

 

[Megar arc 5040dd]

I have to disagree, the conversion is not that difficult or expensive (depending on what is expensive to you). If I understand correctly, the leadscrew and gearbox are imperial but the compound and cross slide are metric. First I would measure the thread on the two screws to make sure they are metric and that someone has not just switched dials. The compound screw is relatively easy to machine, you already have dimensions, just grind an acme tool and go nuts. The cross is more difficult as it has the powerfeed gear machined in it, however it is doable or many people cut of the threaded portion and reattach an new piece (many videos on youtube showing this). Imperial dials can be purchased for around $50 each. New nuts can also be purchased for around $50 each (the compound nut is easy to make). All in depending on your time and skill, it could be done for material cost if you were to machine all parts yourself, or a couple hundred it you make some parts yourself and purchase the rest. Converting with new parts would also eliminate any wear and backlash issues you may have. Of note, this would be a good time to consider a large dial conversion.

I agree. This is what I would do.

 

[Dabbler]

@OliverTO It just isn't the dial and lead screw. Of course you have to change out the nuts as well. Last time I looked the nuts were more than 100$ each, but lets round it down. dials 2X50, screws 2X100, nuts 2X 80 (for example) which is just south of 500$.

A decent DRO package costs just north of 300 CAD$ delivered. Gives you both metric and imperial, conversions, and are far more accurate than dials. Changing to a DRO is slightly more work, but well within any hobby machinist's capability, and a huge improvement in functionality.

Using it in metric mode requires conversion, but can be very smooth once he gets used to it.

 

[ducdon]

I purchase the 9A in Picton On that was on Kijiji found by one of our members. It is a beautiful machine and in exceptional condition. The accessories and tooling were in the same excellent condition. Thanks. The sale of my Chinese lathe and some other shop stuff took the sting out of the asking price.
It has however one oddity in that it is an inch machine with metric direct reading scales on the cross and compound. My question is; do I have to find inch scale and swap them out or do the screws and scale have to be switched? My present option is to start trying to work in metric...... something I have resisted since the late 60's. I'm presently using a machinist's calculator when I get down to the final passes.
Advice would be appreciated.

My experience is to go one way or the other when it comes to Metric or inch. I do much of my work in metric but with inch machines and inch measuring tools. I tried both for awhile but found it very error prone. I got rid of all my metric measurement tools and my machines are inch. If I'm doing metric work I sit down with a calculator and convert all the measurements and proceed from there. It's not because I don't understand the metric system or cant work with it. If I was starting all over again I would go all metric. It's a better system. Switching back and forth just didn't work well for me. Good luck.

 

[Megar arc 5040dd]

@OliverTO It just isn't the dial and lead screw. Of course you have to change out the nuts as well. Last time I looked the nuts were more than 100$ each, but lets round it down. dials 2X50, screws 2X100, nuts 2X 80 (for example) which is just south of 500$.

A decent DRO package costs just north of 300 CAD$ delivered. Gives you both metric and imperial, conversions, and are far more accurate than dials. Changing to a DRO is slightly more work, but well within any hobby machinist's capability, and a huge improvement in functionality.

Using it in metric mode requires conversion, but can be very smooth once he gets used to it.

All of these parts can be made on the lathe for the price of materials and that wouldn't be much at all. And if you are a complete beginner there are a ton of videos on youtube doing this exact job that will take you through the entire process. I believe this would be by far the cheapest option and the most fun.

 

[Johnwa]

I bought a x slide screw and nut quite a few years ago. IIRC the set was well under $100. Prices sure have increased! On ebay.COM you can still find nuts for under $50. I also found 36”of 1/2-10 LH acme rod for under $25. This is all US$ and without shipping.
The suggested way for machining the x slide screw is to keep the handle and gear portion of the old screw. Drill and bore a hole in the end and then turn down the end of the screw for a tight/slip fit. Then loctite and pin to hold in place. My screw ended up being ok so I just replaced the nut.

 

[Susquatch]

My screw ended up being ok so I just replaced the nut.

How did you handle the metric markings?

That's the issue that unglues me. I can't make a wheel with quality markings like that. So I'd rather just leave the metric wheel and add a DRO to get imperial. The DRO adds so many other features that it just seems like a no-brainer.

 

[Johnwa]

How did you handle the metric markings?

That's the issue that unglues me. I can't make a wheel with quality markings like that. So I'd rather just leave the metric wheel and add a DRO to get imperial. The DRO adds so many other features that it just seems like a no-brainer.

My problem was too much backlash, I didn’t have to convert to imperial. The new nut solved the backlash problem.

He may not have to change his dials. My dials go from 0 to 100 and measure in thousandth how much I’m taking off the radius. If it were 0 to 200 then it would indicate how much off the diameter. If his go 0 to 50 then he will need new dials.

PS. CNC is even better. ROTFLMAO!!

 

[140mower]

If the dials etc are metric, is the gear box not also metric. ie: only cuts metric threads except with transposing gears?

 

[Jswain]

Do you have pictures?

Don't forget if you do it properly and swap parts you have the old parts to resell(probably pretty easily since it's a southbend) on eBay, perhaps for the sameish money(or maybe more) then you pay for the replacement parts.

 

[Meteor64]

I have bought replacement parts for my South Bend from Australian Metalworking Hobbyist. They have parts for the Hercus lathe which is almost identical to the South Bend. The only downside is shipping is very high. Still, when you can't find parts...

I replaced the compound and cross slide screws as mine were very worn. No longer acme shape, just pointy teeth! The new setup eliminated almost all the backlash I had. The only slight glitch was the domed nut at the handle had to be replaced as the thread was different.