@ Darren, I too "collect" bearing races. Long ago I found they helped when installing a new replacement bearing in a recessed bore or a bearing over shaft, I cut the race with angle grinder, torch, etc. This allows the race to contract or expand slightly allowing easy removal from shaft or bore after pushing new bearing into place. Chamfer the edges of the cut you made before using. Using an old race allows pushing farther away from bearing seals and races, less trying to find the "perfect" piece to machine/make something to install a bearing.
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South Bend 10K Horizontal Drive Bushings Replacement
- Thread starter Elektrishun
- Start date
Elektrishun
Active Member
Job is done!
- cut the new bushings to size based on measurements from the old bushings
- cleaned up the cut sides and beveled the edges
- did a test fit on the drive axle with each new bushing
- put the new bushings in a plastic bag in the freezer for about 2 hours
- cleaned the drive's openings and touched up the edges with fine grit sandpaper
- made a simple tool for pressing the new bushings into the drive (see image below)
- brought the drive over to my work table and laid it on top of some ceramic tile (I was preparing to apply heat if needed)
- pulled the bushings out of the freezer into another bag with ice packs and brought them out to the garage
Took about 10-15 seconds to get each bushing into place. Real easy, no heat needed. The only minor hiccup was when I received a call the on cordless phone intercom. I only had one bushing left but decided to answer the phone because I thought it might be important. Nope. Just my wife calling to ask "how's it going?"
A 1/2" to 3/4" zinc coated steel fitting (Princess Auto $7.00) was used to press the bushings into place as seen in the image to the right on the threaded rod. The 1/2" threaded end fit inside the bushing and the flat machined shoulder squared the bushing up to the drive opening. Once again, I used JB Weld to attach a couple washers on the 3/4" side for the single nut to turn against. As well, the two nuts at the other end of the 1/2" threaded rod are frozen in place with blue thread lock. As you can see I used the cast fitting in the same manner as before - to brace against the opposite side. A 3/4" wrench at either end to make it all work with one of them being a ratchet wrench (or a socket) to really speed things up.
Bushings are replaced and I can begin to reassemble.
- cut the new bushings to size based on measurements from the old bushings
- cleaned up the cut sides and beveled the edges
- did a test fit on the drive axle with each new bushing
- put the new bushings in a plastic bag in the freezer for about 2 hours
- cleaned the drive's openings and touched up the edges with fine grit sandpaper
- made a simple tool for pressing the new bushings into the drive (see image below)
- brought the drive over to my work table and laid it on top of some ceramic tile (I was preparing to apply heat if needed)
- pulled the bushings out of the freezer into another bag with ice packs and brought them out to the garage
Took about 10-15 seconds to get each bushing into place. Real easy, no heat needed. The only minor hiccup was when I received a call the on cordless phone intercom. I only had one bushing left but decided to answer the phone because I thought it might be important. Nope. Just my wife calling to ask "how's it going?"
A 1/2" to 3/4" zinc coated steel fitting (Princess Auto $7.00) was used to press the bushings into place as seen in the image to the right on the threaded rod. The 1/2" threaded end fit inside the bushing and the flat machined shoulder squared the bushing up to the drive opening. Once again, I used JB Weld to attach a couple washers on the 3/4" side for the single nut to turn against. As well, the two nuts at the other end of the 1/2" threaded rod are frozen in place with blue thread lock. As you can see I used the cast fitting in the same manner as before - to brace against the opposite side. A 3/4" wrench at either end to make it all work with one of them being a ratchet wrench (or a socket) to really speed things up.
Bushings are replaced and I can begin to reassemble.
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