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Tool Some tools I made for my 10K Southbend Lathe

Tool
terry_g

terry_g

Ultra Member
Some tools I made for my 10K Southbend lathe. I bought a 10K Southbend lathe back in the mid 1990s
that came with no tooling and a three jaw chuck that came with only one set of jaws. The material for the
tools I made for it came out of the scrap steel bin at work.
Here are some of the tools I made for it:

A turret tool post made from 2"x2" mystery metal. I cut the slot with a 1/2" end mill held in the chuck.
turret.jpg

A rocker tool post which worked very well.
rocker.jpg

A follow rest.
follow.jpg

A steady rest.
steady.jpg

A carriage stop.
stop.jpg
 
More pics
A parting tool holder and carriage drill.
cut.jpg

A radius tool.
rad.jpg

I sold it ten years ago when I upgraded to a Chinese 12x36 lathe. I bet its still going strong.
lathe.jpg


A 12x2.5 tap I made to cut threads in a new cross feed nut for the 10K Southbend. Made from W1 drill rod and hardened
and tempered. It did the job but developed a bit of a twist from the torque required to cut the threads. I should have made
it longer.
tap.jpg
 
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I really like the carriage stop with a quick release lock handle @terry_g !

The radius tool is fairly high on my priority list of tools to make for my own lathe too.

I don't suppose you kept plans and/or better pictures?

How did you get the "tool" box on your subject line?

Screenshot_20220316-085201_Chrome.jpg
 
Excellent stuff - like the use what ya got lying around philosophy. Did you make any tools or mods for the Chinese lathe replacement?
 
terry_g said:
This is a radius tool I made that fits the boring bar holder for my Asian made QC tool post.
I still need to address all the sharp edges.
Click to expand...

Very Cool Terry!

I assume the cutting end is bolted solidly to the flats on the end of the shaft and that you adjust the handle position to minimize lateral play of the shaft in the boring bar holder.

What do mean by address all the sharp edges?
 
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terry_g said:
I need to take a file to it and take some of the sharp edges off.
Click to expand...

OK, I feared you might mean that using it creates sharp edges on the part.

Btw, that is a very clever design. I LOVE IT!

I have big hands. How big of a ball can you make with it?

Will it cut stainless with a sharp bit?
 
I have big hands too. The size of the radius it can cut is limited by the length of
the slotted part the cutter holder slides on.
You can make it as long as you want or make a few different lengths.
I have never tried to cut stainless with it.
I used it to finish the ends of the brass knobs I replaced the plastic ones with on my
lathe. We had an abundance of 1 x 1" brass round stock from failed shear pins.
IMG_2463.JPGIMG_2465.JPG
 
terry_g said:
I have big hands too. The size of the radius it can cut is limited by the length of
the slotted part the cutter holder slides on.
You can make it as long as you want or make a few different lengths.
I have never tried to cut stainless with it.
I used it to finish the ends of the brass knobs I replaced the plastic ones with on my
lathe. We had an abundance of 1 x 1" brass round stock from failed shear pins.
Click to expand...

Beautiful!

I especially like the tool post top handle. Most lathes don't have that and I'm pretty sure none of the craftex lathes do. I assume you made it special.
 
I made the tool post top handle. I disliked having to keep an extra wrench at the lathe.
The nut for the top handle has 3 holes to screw the handle into to change the angle if
its in the way. You can see one the slotted plugs in the picture. I have never needed to move it.
 
I needed to cut 5 more threads on a Savage 12FV .223 barrel, 1.050" x 20 threads per inch.
I made a cat head that threaded into the outboard end of the spindle with a hand crank that attached to it.
That way I could rotate the spindle five turns at a time to cut the threads. I replaced the bolts in the cat
head with brass setscrews I made for the job. I still need to make a proper handle for the crank.
handle.jpg
ch.jpg
parts.jpg
 
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terry_g said:
Another attachment I made was a block that clamps on the tailstock spindle for a dial indicator to measure the travel.
The tail stock is flat on top on my lathe.
Click to expand...

Mine is flat too and I did exactly the same thing! I lose the thickness of the collar on some jobs, but for most MT3 tooling you can't retract the quill all the way without ejecting the tooling anyway.

Nice!
 
terry_g said:
I needed to cut 5 more threads on a Savage 12FV .223 barrel, 1.050" x 20 threads per inch.
I made a cat head that threaded into the outboard end of the spindle with a hand crank that attached to it.
That way I could rotate the spindle five turns at a time to cut the threads. I replaced the bolts in the cat
head with brass setscrews I made for the job. I still need to make a proper handle for the crank.
View attachment 22095
View attachment 22096
View attachment 22097
Click to expand...

The end result is really nice. I love it! But I'm not clear on the process you used to get there.

If your lathe already had the rear spider, why did you need to add an extension?

And if it didn't have the spider why did you need to thread it on? Wouldn't a clamping collar like you made for your tailstock work just as well? Or perhaps even something with grub screws? I would have been nervous about threading the spindle.

Is the crank handle thingy a threading die holder, or a tool to tighten the spider, or both?
 
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