Repair a gib?

[Susquatch]

You've just given me an idea. I'm going to make a washer and see if that will work.

Just thinking about how my various gibb systems work. Could you make a washer type clip to capture the gibb but act like a washer under the screw? I'm thinking about those bridge clamps that hold down a carbide insert. If course, that shape wouldn't work, but it's easy for me to imagine a shape that would.

I'm even thinking about the gibb screw on my cross-slide. When I adjust it, it lifts the gibb just like another poster described a while back. A clip that fit the entire gibb cavity would push on the gibb but not rotate and lift it.

 

[David]

Just thinking about how my various gibb systems work. Could you make a washer type clip to capture the gibb but act like a washer under the screw? I'm thinking about those bridge clamps that hold down a carbide insert. If course, that shape wouldn't work, but it's easy for me to imagine a shape that would.

I'm even thinking about the gibb screw on my cross-slide. When I adjust it, it lifts the gibb just like another poster described a while back. A clip that fit the entire gibb cavity would push on the gibb but not rotate and lift it.

Something like this:

 

[Susquatch]

Something like this:

I was thinking more like this to fill the Gibb channel so the washer wouldn't be able to turn at all. That way it could never lift the Gibb. It could even have a cup on the backside to fit the Gibb edge.





@PeterT and I (and others) were helping another member who had a Gibb lifting problem a while back. I just couldn't find it.

 

[David]

I was thinking more like this to fill the Gibb channel so the washer wouldn't be able to turn at all. That way it could never lift the Gibb. It could even have a cup on the backside to fit the Gibb edge.

View attachment 62284



@PeterT and I (and others) were helping another member who had a Gibb lifting problem a while back. I just couldn't find it.

The is what the end of my compound looks like.
The adjustment screw goes in the round hole and slightly overlaps into where the gib lies.
The slot is maybe 4mm wide.

 

[Susquatch]

The is what the end of my compound looks like.
The adjustment screw goes in the round hole and slightly overlaps into where the gib lies.
The slot is maybe 4mm wide.

I note that you went to a lot of trouble to draw that out for me. I REALLY APPRECIATE that.

You are right about the cavity. That isn't what I saw in my mind.

In your case, I guess I would make the washer a bit thicker to make up for the strength loss of the smaller cross-section and stick through that opening enough to fill it to 98% and grab enough of the Gibb to reliably push it without any tendency to rotate. You might also need a slightly longer screw. The rotation is what causes a minor distortion in the Gibb to dovetail relationship - which I think is worth addressing. Which was a major focus of the previous discussion @PeterT and I were having a long while back.

In your case, it would also improve the Gibb and Screw Contact relationship.

 

[David]

I note that you went to a lot of trouble to draw that out for me. I REALLY APPRECIATE that.

You are right about the cavity. That isn't what I saw in my mind.

In your case, I guess I would make the washer a bit thicker to make up for the strength loss of the smaller cross-section and stick through that opening enough to fill it to 98% and grab enough of the Gibb to reliably push it without any tendency to rotate. The rotation is what causes a minor distortion in the Gibb to dovetail relationship - which I think is worth addressing. Which was a major focus of the previous discussion @PeterT and I were having a long while back.

In your case, it would also improve the Gibb and Screw Contact relationship.

No trouble at all... drawing that took about 1 minute.

Fortunately the end that is chowdered up is the stop screw which only needs to prevent the screw at the other end from pushing the gib past the screw head.

 

[PeterT]

That's kind of what I was getting at with a filler piece (red outline) that has a section shape matching the end of the gib strip. The existing screw now contacts that segment so its not bottoming out on the counterbore. Anyways the gib can go deeper (if I'm understanding the issue). You could 3DP some shape / thickness variations before committing to metal. And I would think JB-Weld bonding the filler segment to gib would be OK, its just seeing compression & a bit of torque shear from the screw head, but it shouldn't be much, these are not to be gronked.

 

[David]

That's kind of what I was getting at with a filler piece (red outline) that has a section shape matching the end of the gib strip. The existing screw now contacts that segment so its not bottoming out on the counterbore. Anyways the gib can go deeper (if I'm understanding the issue). You could 3DP some shape / thickness variations before committing to metal. And I would think JB-Weld bonding the filler segment to gib would be OK, its just seeing compression & a bit of torque shear from the screw head, but it shouldn't be much, these are not to be gronked.

OHHH now I understand what you meant Peter. I swear I looked at your previous post a dozen times time and it didn't click till now. Blame it on poor mental imagery on my part.