Ya I guess i was pretty vague there... I dont want it to break or bend.When you say without causing damage do you mean without changing the spring characteristics or temper?
That's not what I wanted to hear. I need to drill both ends of the spring and only straighten the one end a bit. Maybe I will have to anneal both ends and leave them in that state. I think the leaf is heavy enough material that it should not likely fail ( I hope and guess) .In my experience with main springs for antique firearms, if you bend without heating to the point that it retains a new form, there will be cracks in the spring that will almost immediately fail in use...in other words anneal then bend, then re-heat treat, then re-temper.
ohh ya...drill your hole in the annealed state.
Brownells sells flat spring stock (a local gunsmith may have a selection close by...Stel...) in its annealed state that you can make your own new spring from , comes with "how to torch heat treat" directions that most home shop gunsmiths will use because of equipment limitations.
I am making a modification to my little plane tailwheel. I am mounting a tailwheel to a leaf spring and the leaf spring to the back end of the plane...completely different set up from the original.What's it being used for?
A leaf spring shop, while probably not one close by, likely has a scrap bin you could poke through
I am making a modification to my little plane tailwheel. I am mounting a tailwheel to a leaf spring and the leaf spring to the back end of the plane...completely different set up from the original.
Will do when I get a chance.Post a pic of your plane pls.....
Ha ha very close and I was going to post the same damn thing! Ha you beat me t 😛 o it.
I'd be tempted to to support it in 2 places on each side of where you want it to flatten and apply hydraulic press between the two points with significant vigor? Cautiously a bit at a time. Many many moons ago I recurved a model A ford spring to the oposite curve so the spring eyes turned up instead of down. No press just a big sledge hammer.Any experts here on rebending leaf springs? I am wanting to straighten out a small end portion of a leaf with out causing damage. I just need to flaten out the curved and "machined" length (2.75")then drill a hole thru the stuff for a mounting bolt.
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Yes I've considered that as I have easy access to a hydraulic press. I may have to flaten out the curve on the other end also but I'm still figuring out things. Thanks for the input folks.I'd be tempted to to support it in 2 places on each side of where you want it to flatten and apply hydraulic press between the two points with significant vigor? Cautiously a bit at a time. Many many moons ago I recurved a model A ford spring to the oposite curve so the spring eyes turned up instead of down. No press just a big sledge hammer.
I'd be tempted to to support it in 2 places on each side of where you want it to flatten and apply hydraulic press between the two points with significant vigor? Cautiously a bit at a time. Many many moons ago I recurved a model A ford spring to the oposite curve so the spring eyes turned up instead of down. No press just a big sledge hammer.