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Rebending leaf springs

DPittman

Ultra Member
Any experts here on rebending leaf springs? I am wanting to straighten out a small end portion of a leaf with out causing damage. I just need to flaten out the curved and "machined" length (2.75")then drill a hole thru the stuff for a mounting bolt.
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In my experience with main springs for antique firearms, if you bend without heating to the point that it retains a new form, there will be cracks in the spring that will almost immediately fail in use...in other words anneal then bend, then re-heat treat, then re-temper.
ohh ya...drill your hole in the annealed state.
Brownells sells flat spring stock (a local gunsmith may have a selection close by...Stel...) in its annealed state that you can make your own new spring from , comes with "how to torch heat treat" directions that most home shop gunsmiths will use because of equipment limitations.
 
In my experience with main springs for antique firearms, if you bend without heating to the point that it retains a new form, there will be cracks in the spring that will almost immediately fail in use...in other words anneal then bend, then re-heat treat, then re-temper.
ohh ya...drill your hole in the annealed state.
Brownells sells flat spring stock (a local gunsmith may have a selection close by...Stel...) in its annealed state that you can make your own new spring from , comes with "how to torch heat treat" directions that most home shop gunsmiths will use because of equipment limitations.
That's not what I wanted to hear. I need to drill both ends of the spring and only straighten the one end a bit. Maybe I will have to anneal both ends and leave them in that state. I think the leaf is heavy enough material that it should not likely fail ( I hope and guess) .
 
Ya, id just drill the hole with carbide and shim the spring to the right geometry.

I haven't seen @Darren around in a while. But I recall that he played with big springs. Maybe reach out to him and tell him that his hobby metal working friends miss him.
 
Any experts here on rebending leaf springs? I am wanting to straighten out a small end portion of a leaf with out causing damage. I just need to flaten out the curved and "machined" length (2.75")then drill a hole thru the stuff for a mounting bolt.
View attachment 88929
I'd be tempted to to support it in 2 places on each side of where you want it to flatten and apply hydraulic press between the two points with significant vigor? Cautiously a bit at a time. Many many moons ago I recurved a model A ford spring to the oposite curve so the spring eyes turned up instead of down. No press just a big sledge hammer.
 
I'd be tempted to to support it in 2 places on each side of where you want it to flatten and apply hydraulic press between the two points with significant vigor? Cautiously a bit at a time. Many many moons ago I recurved a model A ford spring to the oposite curve so the spring eyes turned up instead of down. No press just a big sledge hammer.
Yes I've considered that as I have easy access to a hydraulic press. I may have to flaten out the curve on the other end also but I'm still figuring out things. Thanks for the input folks.
 
I'd be tempted to to support it in 2 places on each side of where you want it to flatten and apply hydraulic press between the two points with significant vigor? Cautiously a bit at a time. Many many moons ago I recurved a model A ford spring to the oposite curve so the spring eyes turned up instead of down. No press just a big sledge hammer.

You know, I’ve done that too many many moons ago as a young and green guy but I didn’t want to mention it because I thought it too shade tree/brute force.

The rest of the story: I was shown the trick by a very experienced mechanic to reduce the arch of the leaf springs of a race car. I said no way that would work and he proceeded to show me you could do it. Just set the leaf across a couple of bars welded to a chunk of channel and thump it with a 10 lb sledge. Keep moving along the spring until it looks about right. Careful with your hands while holding onto it!

At the time I didn’t believe that you could (permanently) bend a leaf without breaking it. I never had a problem with any of the leaves I re-arched.

That said, for something as critical as a tail spring on a plane I’m less inclined to do something like that.

With it bolted, does the spring bottom on the mount bracket or is there still a gap (arch) under it where it clamps to the mount? If there is I’d be tempted to make a curved shim that gives you the right angle of the spring and allows a length of it to be clamped between the bolt and the mount without a gap. Avoids trying to bend the spring on that end at least.

Maybe something similar at the other end too?

D 😎
 
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