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Re-align main shaft

#21
I have another question unrelated to the lathe, but about my drill press. It's a older Jet model 13R (manufacturers number 54130). I need to replace the chuck as it also has a slight wobble (I hope this wobble things isn't becoming a pattern) plus it appears to be worn severely for to tighten and loosen requires a good deal of effort. I'll send pictures from my phone.
 

RobinHood

Active Member
Premium Member
#23
Not sure about the Jet DP in particular, but some have a screw inside the chuck to secure it to the taper on the spindle or the threads (in case the spindle is threaded). Open it all the way, look inside. If there is a fastener, it needs to come out first. A lot of them are left hand threads! Once it is out (assuming you have one in the first place), use wedges between the chuck top and the spindle nut to force the chuck off the taper. Some force might be required. If it is threaded on, then unthread the chuck.
 
#24
Not sure about the Jet DP in particular, but some have a screw inside the chuck to secure it to the taper on the spindle or the threads (in case the spindle is threaded). Open it all the way, look inside. If there is a fastener, it needs to come out first. A lot of them are left hand threads! Once it is out (assuming you have one in the first place), use wedges between the chuck top and the spindle nut to force the chuck off the taper. Some force might be required. If it is threaded on, then unthread the chuck.
No threaded insert (like an allen screw) holding the chuck on from inside the chuck, like on a handheld drill. Will attempt the wedge technique. Thanks.
 

John Conroy

Well-Known Member
Premium Member
#25
Most drill preses use a Morse taper saft on the chuck and it is removed with a wedge through an access hole in the spindle as shown in this video.

 
#26
Thanks John for this helpful video. Success came last night when I was able to remove the chuck smoothly. I attempted to turn the nut counterclockwise after I'd chucked a LARGE allen wrench's short end into the chuck and slipped a similar inside diameter shaft over the long end of the allen wrench so it touched the vertical support shaft separating the drill press head from the base. I then used a 1" wrench (perfect fit) to turn the nut counterclockwise and it moved fairly easily. The nut got closer to the chuck finally touching it. I then kept turning the nut as it kept getting further away the from the head. By now I needed to apply a longer lever over the other end of the wrench and the nut kept turning with considerable force (base of the press clamped to my bench). Within a few more turns I could feel the force on the nut lessening and the distance from the chuck to the head of the press was increasing, and then finally as the nut loosely turned, I pulled down on the chuck and it slipped off. Wow did that ever feel good. It reminded me of the same procedure I use when removing the pedal crank from a bicycle with the Park Tool I own for that purpose as a pedal crank is tapered inside to match the taper on the crank shaft. Now off to find a new chuck at KMS, Busy Bee or a machine shop. Thanks again to ALL who chimed in to help me with this conundrum. This forum is a wonderful link to quite a brain trust. I will send pictures of the removed chuck, and the tapered shaft at the end of the quill. Before I put the new chuck back on I think I'll have to use some emery cloth to clean up the taper. I think the chuck was wobbling because there was a ton of crud (some appeared to be dried locktite or something like that) in the tapered hole and a corresponding amount of crud on the taper of the quill, but then that's just my theory - I'm sure there's a more solid technical reason why.