Tool Ratcheting Tap Handle

[Downwindtracker2]

Aw, CT strikes again. I don't see it on line. It wasn't cheap. I think I was surprised when I did find the second one for home. I have two so I'm good, but if I was desperate, I would try Amazon Germany. There are also tool stores that ship to NA . Handy if you want Stahwille wrenches.

 

[Susquatch]

Aw, CT strikes again. I don't see it on line. It wasn't cheap. I think I was surprised when I did find the second one for home. I have two so I'm good, but if I was desperate, I would try Amazon Germany. There are also tool stores that ship to NA . Handy if you want Stahwille wrenches.

You are full of cool ideas. I use Amazon U.S. all the time. Never crossed my mind to use Amazon Germany!

 

[Janger]

I was looking for tap sockets and came across a tap aligner. Interesting take on the problem. Does anyone have something like this? Care to comment?

Tap Aligner

www.msdiscounttool.com

I also discovered these fixed tap handles from mitutoyo at ITM Instruments canada. I ordered two. Shipping is $17.
https://www.itm.com/search?search=tap+wrench+mitutoyo

 

[Dan Dubeau]

Hey @Dan Dubeau what about this question? I'm curious too.

Post #19 John. Yes, the side slot intersects the round hole on the end forming the drive square for the tap on 3 sides.

 

[Susquatch]

Does anyone have something like this? Care to comment?

I have several sizes. They work with both drills and taps. Mine have replaceable bushings too. I almost never use them except when faced with unusual circumstances. They don't work that well but are sometimes better than nothing.

 

[PeterT]

I also discovered these fixed tap handles from mitutoyo at ITM Instruments canada. I ordered two. Shipping is $17.
https://www.itm.com/search?search=tap+wrench+mitutoyo

That's a good price considering Mitutoyo name. It looks to be the 'always locked' collet style. As opposed to the ones that have a forward/reverse/lock ratchet like att pic.
But if you want to use it in a mill or drill press, there are other models like Walton. For that kind of application I keep reverting to my homebrew arbors because I can make the body OD slimmer than the typical tap handles, provide more self alignment contact area to the tap body & the overall length is shorter. I can either grip it in collet or chuck & tap under power or leave it just a smidge loose & use the tommy bar for more control

 

[Janger]

I was looking for tap sockets and came across a tap aligner. Interesting take on the problem. Does anyone have something like this? Care to comment?

Tap Aligner

www.msdiscounttool.com

I also discovered these fixed tap handles from mitutoyo at ITM Instruments canada. I ordered two. Shipping is $17.
https://www.itm.com/search?search=tap+wrench+mitutoyo

I sketched up this. I'll try 3d printing it.

 

[Susquatch]

I sketched up this. I'll try 3d printing it.
View attachment 27652

Very similar to what I have except mine have a bigger base - which ought to help but in practice doesn't really do much.

I got them from Ali on one of their huge splash sales. Here is a web snatch.

 

[DPittman]

I was looking for tap sockets and came across a tap aligner. Interesting take on the problem. Does anyone have something like this? Care to comment?

Tap Aligner

www.msdiscounttool.com

I also discovered these fixed tap handles from mitutoyo at ITM Instruments canada. I ordered two. Shipping is $17.
https://www.itm.com/search?search=tap+wrench+mitutoyo

Yes I have one of those and mostly like it but have busted the jaws out of it before. I find it is best to just get the tap started straight with it and then use a regular tap handle once in and the going gets tough. I likely did not have the jaws secured tight enough when I broke them.

 

[DPittman]

I sketched up this. I'll try 3d printing it.
View attachment 27652

Consider putting in a v notch on the bottom for tapping into round stock. My commercial version that I have like the one you showed has v notches in it.

 

[Janger]

Consider putting in a v notch on the bottom for tapping into round stock. My commercial version that I have like the one you showed has v notches in it.

V-notches.... yes. forgot to put that in. So that will be print #3!

 

[Janger]

To tap a true straight hole you need two things.
#1 the tap needs be straight up and down
#2 the tap needs to be located directly over the center of the hole

The tap wrench aligner helps somewhat with #1 but #2 is still tricky. The first two of these tap aligners I've printed have too much slop and the tap wrench wobbles around so trying to get #1 is still judging by eye. To make that better I think It needs a slip fit. I think if you can achieve #1 then #2 may happen as the tap self aligns when pressing the tap into the hole?

I'm printing again but this is hitting the limits of the printer. I designed a hole of diameter 0.815" and got a hole 0.800 from the printer - I actually need 0.788 to 0.790
The printer does print a touch small - about 0.012" small on this part.

Adjusting and trying again.

 

[PeterT]

You probably know this but just in case. Lots of just guys use tapping blocks. The holes are sized to be just a bit lager than tap thread OD so the the thickness of the guide provides the perpendicular tap orientation. Your eye does the initial centering. Usually once the tap starts to engage in hole, it self centers because starting taps are bullet tapered & after a few turns relies less on the guide. The downside to blocks is dedicated hole required for each tap size. And flat bottom doesn't align to circular objects like your vee, but they could be modified. I guess that's why you see handy-dandy guides in progressive common thread sizes.

 

[DPittman]

With my commercial tap wrench aligner center over the hole is done much by feel as your vision is now somewhat blocked by the body of the tool.

 

[Janger]

You probably know this but just in case. Lots of just guys use tapping blocks. The holes are sized to be just a bit lager than tap thread OD so the the thickness of the guide provides the perpendicular tap orientation. Your eye does the initial centering. Usually once the tap starts to engage in hole, it self centers because starting taps are bullet tapered & after a few turns relies less on the guide. The downside to blocks is dedicated hole required for each tap size. And flat bottom doesn't align to circular objects like your vee, but they could be modified. I guess that's why you see handy-dandy guides in progressive common thread sizes.

Yup got one. It’s helpful but here you can see the bolt looks straight. It’s not. It’s out by a degree or so.

 

[PeterT]

Yup, that's the downside of any of the hand held blocks or alignment jigs. For accuracy, the absolute best time to tap a hole is immediately after you drilled the pilot hole on the exact same XY setting. Its also the slowest workflow because you are changing tools without repositioning. But with DRO its plenty accurate to drill-drill-drill, then tap-tap-tap. If one has many, many holes the tapping head starts to look more enticing.

 

[Janger]

Two more prints with a tighter fit. I’ll try them tomorrow.

 

[Janger]

Hand tap guide or tap aligner by JAnger | Download free STL model | Printables.com

A plastic version of a hand tap guide or aligner available in metal from various sources. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

I posted the models. They work pretty good.