we're real good at spending other people's cash...Just do it man. You aren't getting any younger. What do you even work for if you can't buy what you want? You're getting a good deal. Are you going to wait another year?
hope this helps
we're real good at spending other people's cash...Just do it man. You aren't getting any younger. What do you even work for if you can't buy what you want? You're getting a good deal. Are you going to wait another year?
hope this helps
I'm not on the board any more but... I always thought the rule should be you don't have to be Canadian but you better be damn Canadian in your attitudes. No assholes. I think we have generally accomplished that. We do have a locker room mentality at times, probably quite the turn off, I could never figure out how to change that.The very name of our forum would suggest that we are mostly Canadian and that was our founding target. But we have certainly grown to include many others from all around the world. There is no requirement to be Canadian.
I sincerely believe she would be welcome here. We embrace a wide range of skill sets - from newbies to wise old pros. She would fit right in from that perspective.
Our membership has very loppsided male representation. Some think it is self imposed. Who am I to say no. But I don't believe for one minute that it's deliberately exclusionary. It's just an outcome not a deliberate goal. In fact, I'd say there isn't even one member on here who wouldn't welcome her with open arms.
Prusa needs in country distribution to cut delivery times and drastically reduce shipping costs. The Core One is $140USD for shipping + whatever extras the courier squeezes. Call that $225CAD all in. And Bambu is free/included?Well, I bought a Bambu P1S 2 weeks ago (after my Ender threw a final hissy fit) and I have to say it is a very impressive piece of kit for $890 including taxes & delivery. I bought the plain jane version without the multi-filament feeder (called the AMS) since I have no interest in the extra hassles involved.
I would not. My wife wud kill me.In fact, I'd say there isn't even one member on here who wouldn't welcome her with open arms.
We're not recruiting per say. I've mentioned the group to Katie and I've posted links to some of the things she's doing. She's in the middle of building a new shop for her wood working tools and CNC router etc.I would not. My wife wud kill me.
But I'd welcome her with an open mind.
If we are recruiting scottish electrical engineers I'd suggest we also recruit Big Clive.
Oh crap John. Now I have major printer envy!We're not recruiting per say. I've mentioned the group to Katie and I've posted links to some of the things she's doing. She's in the middle of building a new shop for her wood working tools and CNC router etc.
She checked out the group and told me pity it's just for Canadians. Turns out not and I've told her that.
It's up to her to decide to join or participate and at whatever level. So far my interaction with her has been much the same as with everyone here. She knows stuff I don't know just like on this list. She seems like a nice person.
She's a big Bambu 3D printer fan and is churning out some innovative solutions. From the advice of the people here on this group and her I have an X1C ordered that now has a FedEx tracking # attached to it. Black Friday sale. Couldn't pass it up and my original 10 year old 3D printer has bed heater/sensor problems. Time to retire it. The SOVOL is doing well but it's not enclosed and I can't do ABS or some of the other more exotic plastics.
Mwwaaaaha ha ha ha....Oh crap John. Now I have major printer envy!
Meanwhile progress on the Herbus cabinet.
I have a bambu A1 mini. With bambu brand PLA it prints quickly and does a nice job - however, I find the prints are weak. This was printed in PLA with 100% infill, I broke it accidentally with my fingers. I'm not sure if this is just PLA, or the printer? I usually use PETG with my Prusa and find that material is much stronger. This same part on the Prusa with PETG is fine no brittleness or weakness. I should print this again with PETG on the A1 and see. Are members using PETG in their X1 P1 etc and how do you find the print strength? Or maybe how is the print strength with PLA in your experience?The barcode on the spool is a thing of beauty. You load it in and Bambu studio knows what it is and adjusts all the settings/imports the filament profile. It really works well, but of course, only if you buy the filament from them. I literally had prefect prints every time using Bambu filament. When I tried to save a few bucks, I had to mess around modifying settings and googlin till I got it to work. I wish Bambu had an Amazon store., but I've now got a few print profiles that work well with Elegoo Rapid PLA+ etc.
I don't know if this is specific to the heated chamber of the X1C, but the best thing I learned for me as a noob, is using hairspray on the plate instead of gluesticks. You can have the bestest/fastest printer but if your part comes loose 3 hours into a print, you're hooped. My failed prints went from like 2/20 to 1/200.
Plain ordinary PLA is brittle, yet quite stiff. PLA+ or PLA Professional is less brittle, and it will deform slightly before fracturing which seems to make it "stronger".I have a bambu A1 mini. With bambu brand PLA it prints quickly and does a nice job - however, I find the prints are weak. This was printed in PLA with 100% infill, I broke it accidentally with my fingers. I'm not sure if this is just PLA, or the printer? I usually use PETG with my Prusa and find that material is much stronger. This same part on the Prusa with PETG is fine no brittleness or weakness. I should print this again with PETG on the A1 and see. Are members using PETG in their X1 P1 etc and how do you find the print strength? Or maybe how is the print strength with PLA in your experience?
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It's a grow seedling green house growing chamber that Katie designed. Still at the revision 0.6 and I think I'm the first two build the entire thing which is why I'm finding little glitches.So you make birdhouses on the side eh!
temp towers....testing settings for your filament. sounds like a good idea. Got any more information on this?I print temp towers when I try new filament so that I can find the optimum temp.
My PLA prints are very strong. All the printed parts on my CNC router are PLA and they are holding up fine after 3 years.
Plain ordinary PLA is brittle, yet quite stiff. PLA+ or PLA Professional is less brittle, and it will deform slightly before fracturing which seems to make it "stronger".
For sections like the one you show there, the print orientation - i.e. the layer direction vs. the strain direction is probably the main factor contributing to this break. The cross section is only a few mm square so the inter-layer bonding is taking all the load. For this particular print, I would use the slicer to reorient the print so that the grain follows the outline contours.
Also, the design details matter. I always use fillets, never 90 degree corners. I also chamfer edges, use appropriate clearances, lubrication on jointed parts (vaseline).
Yes, PETG is stiffer and might survive, but careful design is the better solution in most cases.