Projects

[Janger]

Well I’m still printing the samples that came with my prusa printer. And working on a depth gauge in Fusion to print up. Here is the classic Nefertiti bust.

 

[Tom O]

That came out quite well.

 

[PeterT]

That's cool. How long did it take to print? Is it solid or some kind of matrix in the middle?

One day I'm going to draw up some better wipers for my lathe. One thing I'd be interested in if you ever feel like doing a test. Measure some scrap 3dP object with a mic, then immerse in typical machine/motor oil for a week & note any dimensional or visible change. Some people say they see swelling & degradation, others say not. Maybe it varies my material or type of oil.

 

[Janger]

It took 8 hours to print. Someone who really knew what they were doing built the model. It was 3D scanned and has all the defects present in the original artifact. It’s an amazing piece of art the original that is. The interior has a matrix similar to cardboard or honeycomb. https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...aw2WTUPrxNvltKqqasFKqMVZ&ust=1535334011814145

 

[Janger]

@PeterT that oil degradation test would be interesting to see what happens. I'll see what I can do. and yes I can probably print wipers no problem. I have two kinds of plastic filament. The printer will also do other plastic materials - I think ABS. Something will work.

 

[Colten Edwards]

ABS/PC+ or nylon. ABS might not be a good choice as it dissolves in acetone.

 

[PeterT]

@PeterT that oil degradation test would be interesting to see what happens. I'll see what I can do. and yes I can probably print wipers no problem.

Sorry, I should have separated those 2 items with a big space, they were actually unrelated. I wasn't trying to push work on you. But otoh, if I come up with something of benefit to you/group or can assist on the Cad front or some future collaboration, for sure don't hesitate to ask.

Actually a friend of mine was asking about 3dp parts for an oily engine application - similar to the carb part discussion recently posted, so that's more where that was coming from.

 

[Janger]

I had a bunch of trouble with the power supply on my prusa mk3. The manufacturer finally sent me a new one and the printer is now working again after a 2-3 week interruption! Anyway I'm printing with PETG - first time - and I'm trying the tuning settings. I set the 'Speed' from 100 to 200. I think that is increasing the speed from 100 to 200 %. So I suppose each of the individual speed settings is increased 200%. e.g. no extrusion move print move, edge parts, infill parts etc. The simple slicer software I'm using does not show you all those settings - for now that's probably ok. Do other people tune that setting? The manual suggests 200% is the maximum you should use.

 

[Colten Edwards]

use either slic3r or simplify3d. s3d you have to purchase, but it's pretty good. there is also repetier-host (do not install server) which has a version of slic3r and cura. Both slic3r and cura will allow you to modify ALOT of settings. So one at a time or you'll pay for your mistake.

 

[Janger]

More sample printing.

 

[Colten Edwards]

looking good. need to increase your retraction distance a little. it will help get rid of the stringing. Here is a 41 hour print of the moon. I’m going to stop after it hits 50% though. Need some method of removing the supports inside

 

[Tom O]

That’s where you need the duo head with dissolvable support.

 

[Janger]

Why are the internal supports a problem Colten?

 

[Colten Edwards]

Properly printed and then lit up this will show light and dark areas just like a full moon. With internal support it won’t happen

 

[Colten Edwards]

Here is a gear for my 14x40 lathe. When I bought it, I didn't realize that the metric change gears were not with the lathe. So, I printed them. These are in ABS and took awhile to get correct. I determined the diametrical pitch aprox and then refined it by measuring the diameter of the gear I did have and printing it out. Took some time to get it right.

 

[kevin.decelles]

cool! I too have been dabbling with some gears (thread-dial). I used an old version of TurboCad that let you key in your dimensions for gears including the d.pitch. My intent was lost PLA casting using aluminum but I haven't moved too far down that road yet.

 

[Colten Edwards]

I found a freecad script that makes these complete with keyway and text. two tier gears are also possible. with everything in-between configurable.

 

[Janger]

Would this be durable enough to use? Or does it need to be cast? With aluminum? With steel? Could this be milled on a Cnc mill with a suitably small end mill?

 

[Colten Edwards]

guys are using them on smaller lathes. mrpete222 uses a set. They can be made on a mill with a involute gear cutter of the proper size and a indexer. That I have not figured out yet however.

 

[Janger]

https://github.com/kickstarter/kickstarter-autodesk-3d/blob/master/README.md

3D printing test. This is what it looks like straight out of my Prusa MK3.