gerritv
Gerrit
Making a bunch at one time is a lot less effort than making one today and one next week. Assuming I remember how I did the first one of course
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Pregraph Tool and Cutter Grinder, Victoria, $457
- Thread starter mickeyf
- Start date
Dan Dubeau
Ultra Member
Ya, there's efficiency in small batch production. Sometimes is can also be funMaking a bunch at one time is a lot less effort than making one today and one next week. Assuming I remember how I did the first one of course
. I need to make a small batch of hubs for my surface grinder one of these days. I want about 5-6 of them, and don't want to pay $100+ each for them when I can easily make them for twice that. I always hated running production, but didn't mind the smaller batch stuff, 5-10's. Once I got over 20, or into multiday or month type stuff of doing the same thing I couldn't get away from it quick enough lol.
I stand corrected as I actually just pulled the wheel off the same way you did. I expect there is a tapered hub under there.
@gerritv I'm curious what size is the spindle nose on your machine and what is the hole size in the grinding disks your using? My Accusize the spindle nose diameter and the hole in the grinding wheels are the same size. No room for an adapter hub, or did I miss something? CHEERS@David, excellent buy. You will be able to grind all manner of single lip cutters for your cnc router, as well as spade drills and reamers. With imagination drills (4 facet) and the ends of end mills are very doable. (Flutes maybe not so easy). Slitting saws, gear cutters, shell mills all possible as well. The Deckel S0E manual is the most extensive for single lip cutter instructions.
I will send you a PM with an article from MEW that gives details of some very useful additions to your grinder. Including details of the platform that Petert made.
I buy wheels from AliExpress, and made my own arbors for the straight shank Alexander 2CGD that I have. Make a bunch, lets you swap wheels without rebalancing/refacing every time. (to be truthful I haven't bothered balancing any of my wheels
With some imagination these are very useful grinders. A reversible motor can can useful for small bits, they won't dig into the wheel that way.
Gerrit
Seems like a common size format for Asia manufactured diamond & CBN wheels in nominal 100mm OD is 20mm ID bore. And from my experience the actual diameters can vary +/- The AO type wheels can vary, some have a nylon insert with 20mm bore, some are just the aggregate & different dimension again. Collectively this is why hubs of some sort can bridge the gap & help the wheel run true-ish. Or at least once you have dressed & balanced, it has a hope of staying that way with a re-mount.
The good news is there is an increasingly wide array of reasonably priced & decent quality wheels out there in the 100mm OD range. Likely have nothing to do with D-bit cutters but just so happen to work. I was actually curious what industry they serve because they are so abundant - maybe lapidary trade? There are other common combinations 75mmOD/16mm ID, 125 & 150mm OD /32mm ID
What can be confusing is their grit terminology, whether sneaky sales intentional or just language barrier. Diamond is diamond although the binder material can vary. Sometimes they are brown or green or plated onto a metal substrate. This is a different topic but although perfectly matched to cut carbide & hard enough to cut HSS, not recommended for HSS. its not about the relative hardness, something about depleting the carbon & altering the hardness? I always assumed this must only occur at elevated grinding temperatures, so if the grind was cool, no problem. Others disagree. I have been dressing cobalt type HSS drills on my diamond wheel & all seems fine so I really don't know. Aluminum Oxide & similar is great for HSS as it always has been, been but a bit messier & requires dressing & less common in these size formats. You can also dress your own shape. I think CBN is supposed to work on both carbide & HSS but more expensive. But if you type 'CBN' into Ali & what comes up 80% of the time are 'diamond' wheels. Some sellers will go out of their way to specify 'not diamond, cubic boron nitride', but a lot of general sellers have not got the memo, its just a grinding wheel to them. When you see a CBN wheel at a machinist or dedicated supplier they are quite a bit more expensive. Although that could be middleman $ syndrome too.
The good news is there is an increasingly wide array of reasonably priced & decent quality wheels out there in the 100mm OD range. Likely have nothing to do with D-bit cutters but just so happen to work. I was actually curious what industry they serve because they are so abundant - maybe lapidary trade? There are other common combinations 75mmOD/16mm ID, 125 & 150mm OD /32mm ID
What can be confusing is their grit terminology, whether sneaky sales intentional or just language barrier. Diamond is diamond although the binder material can vary. Sometimes they are brown or green or plated onto a metal substrate. This is a different topic but although perfectly matched to cut carbide & hard enough to cut HSS, not recommended for HSS. its not about the relative hardness, something about depleting the carbon & altering the hardness? I always assumed this must only occur at elevated grinding temperatures, so if the grind was cool, no problem. Others disagree. I have been dressing cobalt type HSS drills on my diamond wheel & all seems fine so I really don't know. Aluminum Oxide & similar is great for HSS as it always has been, been but a bit messier & requires dressing & less common in these size formats. You can also dress your own shape. I think CBN is supposed to work on both carbide & HSS but more expensive. But if you type 'CBN' into Ali & what comes up 80% of the time are 'diamond' wheels. Some sellers will go out of their way to specify 'not diamond, cubic boron nitride', but a lot of general sellers have not got the memo, its just a grinding wheel to them. When you see a CBN wheel at a machinist or dedicated supplier they are quite a bit more expensive. Although that could be middleman $ syndrome too.
I agree with you Peter. There is nothing about a regular low temperature grinding process that would cause carbon atom migration that I know of.
This is either one of those accepted wives tales or perhaps some very aggressive grinding at highly elevated temperatures.
I'm not buying it without some solid science to back the story up.
Thanks for your insights into the Chinese wheel market.
gerritv
Gerrit
IMHO (as a hobbyist) the solution is to not get too deep in theory or folk lore. Just buy, use, if it works keep using it. If not try something else. At the prices from AliExpress it is not worth agonizing for days on the theory.
Most of my wheels are 100mm outside, 20mm inside, mounted on hubs. Haven't felt the need to balance the aluminum based ones. The oxide wheels do need balancing after mounting on arbors and dressing after some use. have a vacuum system nearby.
Most of my wheels are 100mm outside, 20mm inside, mounted on hubs. Haven't felt the need to balance the aluminum based ones. The oxide wheels do need balancing after mounting on arbors and dressing after some use. have a vacuum system nearby.
I wouldn't argue with that opinion. It prolly applies to most hobbiests.
But for me, the theory is half the fun. It isn't agony, it's pure bliss!
THANKS. My spindle nose is 0.750 so I would have to change out my stones ti 1 1/4 bore to make that work. In the meantime I'll save your drawing for future reference.
gerritv
Gerrit
@Don Sipes .75" is almost 20mm, which means that you are mounting your wheel on a hub/arbor. The Accusize U2 is mostly using a tapered spindle so my drawing won't work.
@Don Sipes I just had a dangerous thought. It might not be too far fetched based on what I've seen of my machine & heard of others. Is there any possibility your spindle that was pulled from Bin-A 'to be tapered' vs Bin-B 'finish tapered'? It would be worth a call to Accusize. If everything they have in stock or have seen in the past is tapered, that would be useful information. Then I wouldn't go on a mission making custom hubs for a straight shaft end even though as discussed some older Deckel's used it.
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Well, maybe yes, maybe no. The 0.55 equates to the big end of typical taper when its machined. But eyeballing the nominal OD like around pulley ID looks larger & possibly around this size.
But I agree, we are only guessing until it comes out. I still think a call to Accusize would be beneficial. If they say 'no taper' then he knows what he is facing. Maybe get a replacement shaft but I'd give that low success/timing odds especially compared to what he can make in his own shop.
But I agree, we are only guessing until it comes out. I still think a call to Accusize would be beneficial. If they say 'no taper' then he knows what he is facing. Maybe get a replacement shaft but I'd give that low success/timing odds especially compared to what he can make in his own shop.
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Picture of my Accusize. The flange you see in the picture is what the wheels fit against. It is part of the drive pulley.
Yup, definitely different than my Accusize (year 2017). Interesting.
@Don Sipes when did you get yours? I'm wondering if that this is their new 'standard'.
The idea I was mentioning could go something like this. (Its actually the propeller drive washer assembly for my radial engine). A tapered collar goes on the cylindrical shaft. It has a longitudinal slit so its always easy to remove. The hub (drive washer in my example) has a matching tapered bore. That accomplishes the self centering aspect. But what you are still missing is the thread that secures hub axially into the tapered assembly. I don't think the pulley wheel could be used for that purpose. Possibly drill/tap your existing shaft end for that purpose as the tapered nose shafts are. But now its already out of the machine, so....... Making a new shaft to your own design is certainly do-able but some more work: good OD surfaces for bearings, some threading for bearing backlash nuts, maybe a key slot...
@Don Sipes when did you get yours? I'm wondering if that this is their new 'standard'.
The idea I was mentioning could go something like this. (Its actually the propeller drive washer assembly for my radial engine). A tapered collar goes on the cylindrical shaft. It has a longitudinal slit so its always easy to remove. The hub (drive washer in my example) has a matching tapered bore. That accomplishes the self centering aspect. But what you are still missing is the thread that secures hub axially into the tapered assembly. I don't think the pulley wheel could be used for that purpose. Possibly drill/tap your existing shaft end for that purpose as the tapered nose shafts are. But now its already out of the machine, so....... Making a new shaft to your own design is certainly do-able but some more work: good OD surfaces for bearings, some threading for bearing backlash nuts, maybe a key slot...
2021