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Please school me on internal threading, tool holders, inserts, HSS etc.

ShawnR

Ultra Member
Premium Member
Thanks @RobinHood for the explanation. You addressed my hesitation issues well. I have ordered an ACME gauge but might do some internal threading today for practice until it gets here. I can shape some HSS bits as you suggest.

I will report back.

Thanks @6.5 Fan
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
I'm looking for someone to educate me on the finer points of internal threading. As a baseline, I've never internally thread anything.

I recently ordered some tool holders/carbide-inserts from Aliexpress, and the learning curve on the insert/holder naming conventions was pretty steep. When I looked at the inserts and holders that arrived, I'm still confused.

Some base questions I have are:

Left hand vs. Right Hand internal threading
  1. What side of the bore does the tool work? I've ready about inverting the cutter and running in reverse etc. but haven't put any of it into practice. My right-hand holder looks to cut on the left side of the bore, the left hand holder looks to cut on the right?
  2. Does your chuck always run in the normal (forward) rotation?
  3. Do you thread towards the headstock or away from it?
HSS vs. Carbide (laydown) insert
Pros/Cons?

ACME Threading
  1. Internally, assuming a larger bore (1.5" or bigger), single-point or tap?
  2. HSS vs. Carbide?

I know nothing -- all opinions welcome -- you can't hurt my feelings.

Bonus Question:

I know this response is late to the thread, and I know there are some excellent responses already posted. But I thought you might appreciate seeing a copy of my own notes written for myself about 15 years ago when I first wanted to try cutting threads from the backside of the lathe. I too found the LH/RH outside/inside tool thing confusing.

Cheers!

The only difference between Right and Left Hand Threading Tools is the angle that the trailing edge of the cutter makes so that it can follow the thread groove without scraping on the edge of the grooves.

1. For Right Hand Threads, the same RH tool geometry will cut both outside threads (front in forward and rear in reverse), and the opposite trailing edge angle tool (LH tool) will cut both inside threads (front inside in forward and rear inside in reverse).

2. Left hand threads are the opposite of #1 above. LH tool tips cut outside LH threads, and RH tool tips cut inside LH threads.

3. Within limits, thread pitch and size affect the clearance requirements of the cutting tool bit both in terms of the tip shape (which affects the cut quality and the root of each thread) and the angle of the edge trailing away from the tip (which is mostly determined by the thread diameter and the thread pitch).

4. Theoretically it is possible to cut threads with an upside down tool. But practically speaking, upside down tools don't work well. There is no rigidity in the tool holder because it is lifting away from the compound. To work best, they should push down to the compound in reaction to the force of the work spinning against them.

5. Preground hss or carbide inserts are only sold as RH and LH tips. But RH outside = LH inside, and LH outside = RH inside.

6. Care must be used when cutting inside threads in small diameter holes to ensure there is enough clearance to clear the trailing edge. Basically, the radius of the trailing edge must be less than the hole radius.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
@kevin.decelles thanks for posting this question. To everyone who contributed to this thread (@Brent H , @Tom Kitta ,@Tom O, @DPittman , @PeterT, @RobinHood , and many many others, I wish to extend a HUGE thank you! I wish I had been able to read all your posts back when I first started threading. I especially like the charts that @PeterT had provided. Every once in a while I have to hold my finger like a cutter and twist my other hand like a turning part. On bad days, when I have an extra bad brain fart, I have to grab a big nut or a bolt..... I wonder how many others can relate...... The info in this thread will "clear the air"!

@Janger - should this thread be a sticky?
 

Johnwa

Ultra Member
@Susquatch the lack of rigidity is one of the advantages of the upside tool. With it upside down the tool springs away from the work. With it right side up it springs towards the work and digs in. This is more noticeable on a lightly built lathe.
 

YotaBota

Mike
Premium Member
As mentioned before one of the biggest things (besides avoiding the crash) is to have the clearance from the bottom of the boring bar to the work so the you can cut the depth of thread required. That was one of my biggest hurdles, the thread got to the point where it would start curling over and then would not track the previous cut. The bottom of the bar was holding the cutting edge from making the thread any deeper.
Just a suggestion, instead of wasting steel and dulling cutters trying to get it right, I bought a bunch of cheap plastic pipe fittings for practice cuts. I can't remember what size the adapters were but eventually used them as a spindle protectors on the Logan and the SM9.
 

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Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
@Susquatch the lack of rigidity is one of the advantages of the upside tool. With it upside down the tool springs away from the work. With it right side up it springs towards the work and digs in. This is more noticeable on a lightly built lathe.

I agree with you. However, I don't ever thread that way.

Sometimes I do deliberately use a parting tool upside down and run the lathe in reverse. This stops the tool from grabbing and makes impossible parting possible.
 
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