Machine PDM30 table nut stripped

[Brian H]

Wow Brian......

Ya, I'd send it back along with an objective assessment. As hard as it might be, I'd try to avoid getting nasty.

I'm not in the camp that says to try and repair it. In my mind, that would only happen if I was backed into a tight corner by an angry CFO.

I might try to find an equivalent elsewhere though.

I did send an email and CC'd the vice president to let him know how disappointed I was. I did carefully word the email stating my observations and that this was a 6 month old piece of machinery in a hobby shop environment. They will be sending me new pieces, I'm just not sure how long it will take...

 

[Brian H]

Would it be possible to buy a length of the appropriate sized piece of acme threaded rod and machine the ends as required?

It certainly would. This is a 6 month old mill with a 2 year warranty. I am going to give King a chance to make it right before I go spending my money

 

[Brian H]

Couple of comments.

Very light nut on the mill. There is very little material there for wear.

The photo of the original lead screw shows rough outside edge but what condition is the bearing surface, smooth or rough? This is where it is important. Don't forget on this type of thread the outside doesn't (shouldn't) contact. If the outside is rough who cares.

Good luck with the repair.

The original lead screw had a few rough spots. The "new" part was a coarse as a rasp. Absolutely un-usable and the lead screw nut was piss-wobbly loose also. I stand to be corrected, but, I feel it should turn smoothly but not be able to teeter back and forth.

 

[Brian H]

@Brian H - Degen makes a VERY good point here. On this type of thread, and this kind of application, the part of the thread that really matters most is the bearing surface where the nut and the shaft bear against each other. If the outside diameter of the shaft bothers you, you can cut off a few thou or even sand it without seriously affecting its performance.

Could you please post a close-up photo of the thread so us back-benchers can see what you see?

I will try to get my camera to focus and get a good picture.

 

[Degen]

The original lead screw had a few rough spots. The "new" part was a coarse as a rasp. Absolutely un-usable and the lead screw nut was piss-wobbly loose also. I stand to be corrected, but, I feel it should turn smoothly but not be able to teeter back and forth.

Thats what the split is for expand or tighten it to remove the play, its lime having 2 loose nuts pushed apart by a spring to remove end play or act as a jamb nut (or in this case not to jamb but remove play).

 

[Proxule]

Thats what the split is for expand or tighten it to remove the play, its lime having 2 loose nuts pushed apart by a spring to remove end play or act as a jamb nut (or in this case not to jamb but remove play).

Probably should be tighter then piss wobbly even if its designed to be pushed or pulled into the split nut.

My lathe cross slide split nut is snug from factory in the neutral state. Prior to adjustment.

Tell king to smarten up. Send them some french fries

 

[Downwindtracker2]

It must be pretty disappointing , to buy new equipment and have to rebuild it to make it work.

 

[140mower]

It certainly would. This is a 6 month old mill with a 2 year warranty. I am going to give King a chance to make it right before I go spending my money

Well, hopefully the third time is the charm........ About now, I think I would be tempted to use it as a rectal thermometer for the king himself.....

 

[Brian H]

It must be pretty disappointing , to buy new equipment and have to rebuild it to make it work.

Yes it is. I have bought King woodworking equipment in the past and was extremely happy with it. My first experience with the metalworking, not so much...

 

[Proxule]

Well, hopefully the third time is the charm........ About now, I think I would be tempted to use it as a rectal thermometer for the king himself.....

With or with out lapping compound ???

 

[Proxule]

Any updates?

 

[Brian H]

Any updates?

Still waiting for the replacement parts. They had a technician inspect the new parts before shipping them. I expect to see it in the next week

 

[Brian H]

So the replacement lead screw has finally arrived from King. Its in good order but will need some holes milled in it for the handles and such. So if all goes well, I will be back up and running in short order. Not the fastest process in the world, but, I have the proper parts now.

Any suggestions on what I should be using for lubricant on the lead screw? Grease, heavier weight oil or lighter weight oil? i don't see any recommendations in the manual. Previously I was just using left over engine oil (10w300 if I recall correctly. That's just what I have in my oil can currently

 

[Proxule]

Oil will wash swarf away, Thats the logic, and 20 or 30 weight will do. Nothing special. AW 32 or 46 or 68. Anything is better then nothing!

Gluck