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parts for Black & Decker Router model 7610

T

Tom Fitzpatrick

Active Member
Hello everyone, my question is for two of my woodworking tools, both routers. They are both model 7610 and the rack and pinion adjustments have skipped teeth. This makes it very challenging to raise and lower the height of the bit. I've checked on Amazon and Ebay with no luck. Wondering if anyone out there in the Knowledge Wealth Trust would know where I might find these two parts. The routers run flawlessly except for this feature. Thanks very much.
 
Tom Fitzpatrick said:
Hello everyone, my question is for two of my woodworking tools, both routers. They are both model 7610 and the rack and pinion adjustments have skipped teeth. This makes it very challenging to raise and lower the height of the bit. I've checked on Amazon and Ebay with no luck. Wondering if anyone out there in the Knowledge Wealth Trust would know where I might find these two parts. The routers run flawlessly except for this feature. Thanks very much.
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Is it the rack or the pinion gear that is broke? They may be easy to 3d print.
 
Tom Fitzpatrick said:
Hello everyone, my question is for two of my woodworking tools, both routers. They are both model 7610 and the rack and pinion adjustments have skipped teeth. This makes it very challenging to raise and lower the height of the bit. I've checked on Amazon and Ebay with no luck. Wondering if anyone out there in the Knowledge Wealth Trust would know where I might find these two parts. The routers run flawlessly except for this feature. Thanks very much.
Click to expand...
Looks like you need a star trec replicater see thread on this page
 
Do you have a local Restore - they may have one. I see all kinds of older corded stuff at ours, usually goes pretty cheap. I sometimes see tools identical to ones I own, and toss around the idea of picking up one as a spare. Fortunately I always disavow myself of that notion.

If I am in the local store within the next week, I will have a look and see if one is sitting on the shelf.
 
I do believe Calgary has a Restore - will check - have seen them on Ebay in US, but price and shipping is ridiculous. Will also check some local auction houses. Thanks.
 
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1704949635800.jpeg
 
New to posting pictures from my email on the iPhone. Sorry that they took up so much space. There's probably a more efficient method for doing this. Anyway this is the B&D router (I have two exactly the same with the same malady - stripped gears/teeth on the rack & pinion). Makes it difficult to fine adjust with teeth missing. Great routers for small tasks.
 
Well after looking at some of your other posts, it seems you are into rebuilding wood working equipment, and reach out when you can't get the parts or identify a problem, so I'm going to get you to think of how to solve you problem with tools at hand and little expense.

Material, phenolic or plastic from Azamon (or other cheaper suppliers).

Solution

1. File/hacksaw/straight edge/scribe using existing track as a guide, go at it remove material you don't need. Done.

Expense increases but opens other future options.

2, Milling machine, see 1. Done.
3. Cheap CNC mill/router, go at it. Done.
4. Cheap 3D printer, go at it. Done. (Note this method is about adding and not removing so it is very dedicated, but once you have one, well you can fabricate lots of things).

The solutions and methods are endless. Prior to 3D printers, the question was always, material...source. Followed by how do I remove the excess material to get what I want? From cheapest but time consuming to the fastest/easiest (requires equipment and tooling investment).

So hopefully, this gets you thinking on solving your problem (and future ones) and who knows you may go down the rabbit hole like the rest of us.

This falls under give a man food he eats for one day, teach a man to fish he eats everyday.
 
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I have a similar dewalt router with the same style rack. I'm pretty sure mines brass (memory might be hazy). Looks like the pinion is fine, just the rack is striped.

Seem like an easy job for someone with a shaper, or a dbit grinder that could make a single lip tool, to cut that rack in a mill. It's not too big, so you should get through it with one sharpening. Maybe a rough then finish.

Of course, you could also take a mould off a good one, and cast duplicates in a suitable casting resin. IMO it's not a super high accuracy part, and one that could easily be replicated. It also sounds like it's a common problem, so I'd be very surprised if there isn't already a cottage industry solution floating out there on the net somewhere of a guy that's had the same issue, and is manufacturing replacements. If not, this might be an opportunity to have a run of them made, and hit up woodworking forums, with a replacement part solution. Not saying, or suggesting this will be a profitable venture though lol.

I tried the same with some remade delta bandsaw trunnion brackets a few years back. Turns out, lots of people have the problem, nobody wants to pay a reasonable price for a good solution though. Oh well, I got mine fixed :D/
 
Thanks very much you two and others for these solutions - I wondered about taking the existing rack (on both machines the damage is similar) and tig welding the clear space then with very thin files cleaning out the weld into teeth. The base metal for the rack doesn't appear to be cast - may turn it over and test that back side with my Diversion 180 tig welder to see about penetration using low settings. Could also (if I find the base metal is mild steel) cut a new one with files & hack saws. I think I'll try a similar sized piece of mild steel first, don't want to totally ruin the original. Thanks again for your assistance.
 
1. I would hard silver solder it or braze. Then form a HSS lathe cutter to the rack profile. Mount the lathe cutter onto a flycutter arbor and cut the rack on the milling machine.


or

2. For a quick patch up. Because there is two identical rack ,JB weld glue might work. Before gluing anything, try aligning the rack without any glue to see if the rack profile aligns properly and that you can shift them right and left to be able to fix bad areas with the good one.
You need to align a bad sector with a good one to from the new rack for this to work. This might take a few gluing session. Easy on the glue for minimal clean up, and less chances of glue both rack together.

Mix a small batch of JB weld. smear some glue on both rack, then put a strip of plumber teflon tape between the two and align them on top of each other so that the teeth mesh together, clamp and let it cure.

edit: just saw your post after I submitted mine, I am a very slow with the keyboard. The tig, saw, filling idea would definitely work better then the glue. I didn't think a woodworker would have a tig. Clickspring (youtube channel) has a really good video on using files for precision work.

 
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have you tried ereplacementparts.com? They list parts for your model but the rack is obsolete.
For anyone with a mill or lathe that is childs play to make, grind a tooth profile on a flycutter and .use the broken one to index the teeth you are cutting.
 
Thank you SO MUCH again to all responders. Wow, see I really mean it when I say the Knowledge Wealth Trust is alive and well on this site.

Been a member for a while now. Not just a woodworker, but also a very amateur metal worker (with a 70's vintage Craftsman 12" Metal Lathe and newly acquired 1976 Bridgeport Vertical Knee Mill this past year plus Miller welders - Millermatic 210 and Diversion 180 Tig, 50's vintage Jet 16" drill press, Wellsaw model 58B manual bandsaw and assorted supporting hand and electric tools) - Bridgeport hasn't yet been turned on as I'm in the process of building a robust dolly with collapsible wheels to move it about my garage when vehicles take their rightful place - no flycutter as yes only very minimal tooling came with it - will post pics when complete.
 
Tom Fitzpatrick said:
Thank you SO MUCH again to all responders. Wow, see I really mean it when I say the Knowledge Wealth Trust is alive and well on this site.

Been a member for a while now. Not just a woodworker, but also a very amateur metal worker (with a 70's vintage Craftsman 12" Metal Lathe and newly acquired 1976 Bridgeport Vertical Knee Mill this past year plus Miller welders - Millermatic 210 and Diversion 180 Tig, 50's vintage Jet 16" drill press, Wellsaw model 58B manual bandsaw and assorted supporting hand and electric tools) - Bridgeport hasn't yet been turned on as I'm in the process of building a robust dolly with collapsible wheels to move it about my garage when vehicles take their rightful place - no flycutter as yes only very minimal tooling came with it - will post pics when complete.
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You are in luck..... If you have the material, a fly cutter is a great learning project that ends with a useful tool at the end...... Pictures, we like pictures. ;)
 
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