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One Second Pendulum Clock

JohnP

Well-Known Member
I’ve had this one second pendulum clock with an electronic “Hipp” impulse running in my workshop now for just over 4 years. It is still a work in progress. It keeps reasonable time, in spite of the fact that it is in the un-heated workshop and that the pendulum rod is just a piece of 1/4' dia. 303 stainless. It losses or gains 3-5 minutes a month depending on the temperature fluctuations in the shop. I have a length of carbon fiber tube to replace the stainless one, should improve the time keeping. Just have to get around to making it, also have to improve the suspension unit.
The pendulum bob is a 2" brass tube filled with lead and weighs 4.123 Kg. The drive and timing circuitry are digital logic controlled by a series of 4 hall effect devices which sense the swing of the pendulum and are triggered by a small rare earth magnet on the bottom of the pendulum rod . When the swing decays below a set point the pendulum is given a push, so to speak, by a pulse being sent to the two coils just as the pendulum is approaching them on its swing, attracting the iron bar on the bottom of the pendulum rod, adding the energy back into the system that was lost due to atmospheric drag and friction in the suspension. Initially it was getting an impulse every 20 or so seconds. Today I tried an experiment and put a 15 ohm resistor in series with the coils to cut the coil current in half. It is now giving an impulse every two seconds and occasionally every second. Will have to see if it makes any difference in its time keeping.
The logic circuitry in on the small PC board on the wall to the left of the bob. The small board hanging below it is the driver for the coils. The hall effect devices are in a row directly behind the bottom of the pendulum bob. The whole is powered by a 5V wall wart.
A pulse is sent to the clock on the wall every second to activate the clock movement. The clock movement is just one of those cheap quartz movement that run on a single AA battery that has been modified by removing the battery and disconnecting the internal circuitry from the actuating coil, which is now connected to the pulse coming from the pendulum clock, incrementing the second hand on every swing of the pendulum.
John
clock2.JPG
clockdrive.JPG
 
Nice!

The electronic side of that is way outside my field of experience, but after a bunch of years studying watch and clock making and repair, I have a pretty solid idea of what is being accomplished, even without a compensating pendulum.
 
The way you drive the dial mechanism is very creative. I am building my dial mechanism(s) from scratch but might try it your way as well for an extra one.
I built a Synchronome from a 1960's casting done by a group at TSME. 14 lb lead pendulum.
 
gerritv
Using the cheap quartz movements has one drawback in that, due to the design of the stepper motor that drives the motion, the input pulses to it have to be of alternating polarity (ie +-+-+- etc), which requires a little extra circuitry.
John
 
Love it! Please show more detail on how the pendulum is suspended, how is friction minimized etc.?

What does the driver for the coils do more specifically? voltage, current, time on,? Did you make those coils too?

Temperature fluctuations are a source of error - is that because the stainless rod shrinks/lengthens due to temperature change?
 
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John
Here are a couple of pics of the suspension which is just a piece of 1/2" x .006" steel feeler gauge material. The suspension is not ideal as, with just the single strip of feeler, the pendulum can twist resulting in it tracing a figure 8 path. Apparently that is not good for accuracy. When I replace the rod I plan to re-make the suspension with two strips slightly thinner separated by about an inch which will prevent any tendency to twist.
Friction in the suspension is minimal. With the pendulum moved off to one side by 2 inches and let go to start it swinging and without the impulse circuit on it will continue swinging for just over 3 hours. The only thing slowing it down is the friction of bending the suspension spring and atmospheric drag.
The coils were wound on the lathe and each consist of 1200 turns of #25 wire which used 215 feet of wire. Each has a resistance of 7.8 ohms. They are connected in series such that the two poles are of opposite polarity, ie one N and the other S. They are driven by a 5V pulse which currently lasts about 250ms. The pulse is timed so that it turns on just before the pendulum reaches BDC in its swing and turns off just before the bar on the bottom of the pendulum rod reaches the centre of the coils ensuring that there is no retarding force on the pendulum.
Yes, currently the main source of error in my clock is the change in length or the stainless steel rod with variation in temperature in the shop. As I said I have a length of carbon fiber tube to replace it with. It has a coefficient of linear expansion that is an order of magnitude less than the steel. With it other things will probably become the dominating factor in its accuracy.
John
Suspention.JPG
Suspention1.JPG
 
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