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New to me Bridgeport Mill

YYCHM said:
But then the perfectly good (almost new) 2 HP 220v single phase motor with drum switch the mill came with wouldn't fit the pulley.

When I got my mill, I didn't have a 220V circuit and the motor was wired for 220V, but could be wired for 120V. After exploring wiring the motor for 120V it was concluded that putting a 220V circuit in was just plain easier. 220V single phase lead to.... hey I could go single phase 220V to 3 phase 220V with a VFD and have variable RPM for like $80...well that and a $50 used motor. Regrets... None. Haven't changed a belt since.

A single phase to single phase VFD was not an option when I was looking? Maybe @David_R8 can comment.
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OK, I understand now. I was thinking keep the motor original, you were thinking the same thing but your motor was gunna be on the shelf. I was also thinking about how much easier it would be to bore the pulley instead. I can only imagine what it would be like to turn the motor shaft! Kudos to you for taking that job on!
 
Dabbler said:
OK, Mr Susquatch, you got me off my butt... My motor shaft is .875 on both my First mill and my Hartford mill of the same vintage as yours... (I measured mine on the shaft instead of the ID of the pulley... )



-- Perhaps a little measurement error? I've seen 3/4 shafts and 7/8 shafts and 1" shafts, but not .988... - 25mm maybe?

Try to remeasure on the shaft between the pulley and the motor, and look out for the keyway!
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I did qualify that I couldn't get the Vernier perfectly square. It was very hard to get in there between the bottom of the motor and the pulley. And yes, 0.988 is an oddball size so I was suspicious.

I deliberately turned the pulley so the keyway slot wouldn't affect the measurement. But I never saw a keyway! Altogether I took five measurements and discarded two slightly bigger numbers that were not in the cluster. I couldn't get my fingers in there to tighten the caliper lock so I think it moved on me getting it out.

25mm (0.9843) seems like a totally reasonable size given a canted caliper. Who knows, maybe 0.988 is even correct if the shaft isn't finished where I measured it.

Based on your findings, I think I'll try to pull the motor this afternoon after my bride heads out to do some sewing on my son's boat cover. It doesn't look hard to pull the Hartford motor at all. Getting the motor out of the Bridgeport is a whole nuther matter!
 
Dabbler said:
OK, Mr Susquatch, you got me off my butt...
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Mr Susquatch eh!! Now that made me laugh right out loud! I've been called lots of things in my life, but never Mr Anything! Too big, too hairy, and too ugly for "Mr" Anything!
 
Dabbler said:
Yeah, pulling the motor on a Reeves drive is, well - there's a Joe Piecyzinski video for that..... :eek:
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Yeah...seen that video Joe Pie did. I'm sure half way through a tear down a mere mortal would be wish they had a mill with change belts and a VFD:confused:
 
Brent H said:
We will pull @architect ‘s mill head apart after we pick it up. He will do some filming. - Hopefully we can set a new time record. :p
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Hey Brent, I watched the Joe Pie video that @Dabbler referenced. It was enough to cause me to think "screw that, I'll keep the Hartford". But I found a total gem down in the comments on that video that changed my mind.

It went like this: "Extend Ram, Rotate Head 180 degrees, raise table to touch motor, remove motor mount bolts, lower table, motor is sitting upside down on table."

After having lifted the motor out of my Hartford the regular way, I LOVED THIS COMMENT. Solid gold - if it works. @Mcgyver would be jealous!



The obvious elephant in the room is: Will the BP Head Rotate 180?

Hope it helps you if you try it.

Edit - At 90 degrees, it might also improve access to other parts! Working on a stepladder sucks!
 
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Susquatch said:
The obvious elephant in the room is: Will the BP Head Rotate 180?
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Yes, it will.

Yours has a pin on the side that needs pulling out once the head swivels past a certain point, 25* or 30* I think. Just go slow and leave some drag on the rotation lock bolts so that you can control the movement.

Good luck.
 
The Bridgeport saga continues.

I took the cover off the speed control indicator housing as @Brent H suggested. I discovered that the bottom cover screws were too short and not even engaged in the threads. No idea how they managed to stay there!

I can't access the motor shaft, so I chucked a collet to fit the outside of a 1/2" socket and turned the system from the Spindle with a socket wrench. All that happens when I do this is the belt slips on the Spindle sheeve. Gunna have to fire up the motor to get this part working. But I confess that the screw error has me worried.
 
When you took off the face cover (2 slotted screws) there are 4 Allen head screws that hold the speed selector in place - you say the bottom 2 were not long enough - interesting- you probably have a couple screws somewhere that are too long perhaps?

when you pulled off the speed selection plate was the chain attached to the speed plate at the top and the chain attached to the selector spool at the bottom - such that moving the speed knob would wind up or pay out the chain- thereby pulling down on the speed plate or letting it lift?
 
Brent H said:
When you took off the face cover (2 slotted screws) there are 4 Allen head screws that hold the speed selector in place - you say the bottom 2 were not long enough - interesting- you probably have a couple screws somewhere that are too long perhaps?

when you pulled off the speed selection plate was the chain attached to the speed plate at the top and the chain attached to the selector spool at the bottom - such that moving the speed knob would wind up or pay out the chain- thereby pulling down on the speed plate or letting it lift?
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Sorry Brent. Somehow I missed your post.

It turned out that whoever had that plate off last simply reversed the screws. The two bottom and two top screws are different lengths. It was an easy fix. Amazing how dumb some people can be.

However, I remain concerned about why they were taken off in the first place.

The chain was attached correctly, but I don't know if it's working yet.

Soon. Very soon.
 
Guess what arrived today?

My VFD!

20210628_152217.jpg


I'll be wiring it up shortly and then we will see what we will see!

I've found a few other things in the meantime. I took the high/Low quill feed Lever off to see what is up with it and found out that the internal shifter fork is broken. Looks like somebody forced it rather than wait for the gears to align to slip it in. So I'll have to jury rig that somehow to make sure nothing more serious breaks when I fire it up.
 
Maybe I can install some short bushings to hold the shift fork in place at one end or the other or the middle.
 
YYCHM said:
I think we need a picture here.....
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OK, here is the inside of the feed speed selector gear box with a screwdriver bit holding it in the middle position.

20210629_112022.jpg


I was thinking I could put a sleeve on the right side shaft to hold it into position to solidly engage one of the feed speeds. The following photo shows it held in place at the top position using a screwdriver bit. Obviously, that's only for the photo.

20210629_112149.jpg


But the sleeve approach sucks cuz I'd have to take the head apart to install it.

However, I noticed that the follower pin for the fork is fully captured in the non-damaged portion of the follower slot when the forks are in the top or the bottom position. It is not retained in the center position.

20210629_112313.jpg


So I will make a small shouldered pin to hold the broken selector lever in place in the top or bottom position - prolly the top one so gravity is my friend.

20210629_112445.jpg
 
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