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New to me Ammco 6" Metal shaper
- Thread starter Susquatch
- Start date
140mower
Don
You wish. We're gonna ride ya like a rented mule now.
Yeh, apparently the old boys vision is just fineWell...... that is rather embarrassing.
Well...... that is rather embarrassing.
It's not so bad big fella!
Here it is guys!
Before threading the main body.
The two main pieces. I would replace the boring bar part with the square took bit that I described earlier for making the square hole.
And mounted in the clapper in place of the lantern tool post, the regular tool post is sitting on the table below the new one.
Using my new tool to put a keyway in the gear I made on the shaper using the gear cutting attachment.
This little project you have planned should give a broad set of lessons for the grandkids...
A great solution for slotting but perhaps the one I posted is more useful for general shaping? Or make both of course
Yes, of course!
My favorite pass-time is making tools for my tools! I've even been known to make tools for my tools for my tools!
Both tools have already been added to my project list.
Chicken lights
Forum Pony Express Driver
Is it usable? then quit whiningWell...... that is rather embarrassing.
Define usable.
That is a great diagram for a basic multi purpose shaper tool holder!
I would point out that I have seen many references that suggested that the tool holder be mounted, essentially, upside down, which puts the cutting edge in line with the pivot point of the clapper box.
Easy way to picture it in your mind, is that when you reverse the tool holder, placing the cutter at the back, on the forward stroke, when the cutter is loaded up and the whole system flexes, it flexes, more or less, away from the work, while if you place the cutter on the 'front', the cutter tends to dig in, as a result of the flexure resulting from the cutting forces, increasing the loads applied.
FWIW, i have a couple commercially made holders along this line, and they work very well! Broaches for 3/16", or 1/4" cutter blanks, are not free, but pretty affordable (sub-$100 range, last I shopped).
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Agree
Agree. You re not really going to notice the difference between a 1/3hp motor, and a 1/2hp one, in this case, until you start pushing the machine to do stuff it was never intended, ie: taking huge heavy cuts. If you want to see how hard you can push it, you 'might' be able to see a difference...
Scrounge up whatever rubber mounted furnace blower motor you can find, and have a lot of fun with the machine!
Agree. You re not really going to notice the difference between a 1/3hp motor, and a 1/2hp one, in this case, until you start pushing the machine to do stuff it was never intended, ie: taking huge heavy cuts. If you want to see how hard you can push it, you 'might' be able to see a difference...
Scrounge up whatever rubber mounted furnace blower motor you can find, and have a lot of fun with the machine!
Don't over push the machine. I can tell you that the 4 1/4-20 screws that hold the hub to the baklite gear can be torqued up without fear of stripping. So unless you crash the tool into the work, have the belts up snug to stall the motor, you should be okay not to strip a tooth off of the bull gear.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
TonyK.
Grimsby Ontario Canada.
grease monkey
if ain't broke, you're not trying hard enough!
you can cut internal splines! I may have a small job for you if you are willing, 1" 10 spline through cold rolled about an 1" to 1.15" deep. still need to prove out my cast welding first to see if I can or cant, that will dictate whether I need this done or not.It's not so bad big fella!
Here it is guys!
Before threading the main body.
The two main pieces. I would replace the boring bar part with the square took bit that I described earlier for making the square hole.
And mounted in the clapper in place of the lantern tool post, the regular tool post is sitting on the table below the new one.
Using my new tool to put a keyway in the gear I made on the shaper using the gear cutting attachment.
This little project you have planned should give a broad set of lessons for the grandkids...
Yes, but it will take time. At best, I am still weeks away from a running shaper. More realistically, I am months away.
I will also need to figure out how to index without the indexer that got accidentally sold separately.
Might also need to make a copy of @140mower's tool post.
I can make external splines on my mill, but not internal.
So, back to motors. I wasn't thinking I would notice 1/2 vs 1/3. I was more thinking about breaking something. My bull gear appears to be cast iron. The eccentric is brass. But the very last thing I ever want to do is break something.
Here is a close up of the back of the motor bracket and a photo of the proposed motor. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the bracket for some motor bolts. The alternative is bolts, nuts, and washers to spread the load.
Here is a close up of the back of the motor bracket and a photo of the proposed motor. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the bracket for some motor bolts. The alternative is bolts, nuts, and washers to spread the load.
You may need to put an intermediate plate between the base and the motor mounts, if you cannot move that pulley inwards on the motor shaft to get aligned with the driven pulley.
Or, at least, it looks in this picture like you would need to push the mount almost off the edge of the machine mount surface, as shown.
And, check the rotation direction before you mount it up, eh. BTDT! LOL!
Always a possibility. But one I'd like to avoid.
Good eye! I don't think I could have noticed that from a photo. But when you are looking at it in person, it's rather obvious. I noticed that when I first held it in place. To hit the 4 pads as much as possible, I have to pull the pulley inward. It looks like there is enough room on the shaft to hit the drive pulley. I have not looked yet, but I might also be able to push the drive pulley out a bit too. Last, but not least, the motor pulley can be reversed. Lots of ways to get there.
Since there are only 3 speeds, I am also thinking about a small 3 phase motor and a cheaper VFD. Or maybe a DC motor and speed control.
The motor I have is reversable.
I might also mount a drive crank so I can operate it manually.
I had earlier thought that the bull gear was cast iron. I was mistaken. The oil and slung powders just made it look that way. On very close examination, it is Bakelite after all.
mickeyf
Super User
Surely you are not suggesting that you don't have a way to operate your shaper manually? A shaper MUST have a way to run through a complete cycle manually (slowly and carefully) before you apply power whenever you do a new set up. Otherwise you at least may not have the tool travel and stroke length correctly set, and worse, may run the tool head back into the column, causing great weeping and gnashing of teeth. Reading backwards, I see someone suggested pulling on the belt. No, you need a proper crank handle. More often than not on a small shaper this will also fit the Ram clamp and stroke positioner.