New to me Ammco 6" Metal shaper

[Susquatch]

The sheet metal lower cabinets are really flimsy. And even with the low one, it would place your shaper arm pretty high.

Bottom Tool Cabinets are usually very sturdy to take the weight of middle and top cabinets. The one I bought for my optical divider is rated for the usual 150 pounds per drawer plus 600 for the middle and top chests. The tall ones are also the right height for sliding heavy tools onto the mill table. The one I just got will be used to hold my optical divider and my 10" rotary table. I think another tool box like it would work well for the shaper and also allow me to hide it when not in use.

I can't weld worth shit so NO welded stands in my shop!

1" diameter larger wheels ?

I almost always get bigger wheels. The bigger diameter makes them roll easier and the extra height works better with my height.

 

[Bandit]

A few more. Secondary drive side of shaper, belt guards. Name plate on primary drive side.

 

[Bandit]

And some more! Side cover, stroke setting adjuster, motor and mounting, has partial view of secondary belt guard.

 

[Bandit]

And yet some more. 3 of the 4 tool holders I have been using. So it appears I posted some pictures,(maybe) using late model I-pad and using thumbnail setting.
we’ll see, let me know if they can be seen.

 

[Susquatch]

Am going to “TRY” posting some pictures.

Looks like you succeeded!

Nice photos!

How hard is it to remove the belt gaurds?

 

[Susquatch]

And yet some more.

Interesting array of tools. What are they for?

I wonder if anyone ever considered replacing the clapper rocker post with a small aloris style tool post?

@140 mower posted a photo of what I'd call a plinth. It looked sturdy as hell!

 

[Bandit]

The tools are the ones that I am using in the tool post on the shaper, they allow the bit to be angled at various angles from the shank setting. AND allow use of smaller bits instead of a 1/2 bit in the tool post. Reach away from the clapper box can be increased also if needed.
The same holder with bit in various positions, and a picture of the 4th tool holder mounted in the shaper tool post

 

[Bandit]

Not real hard, give me a while, see what I can do.(remove guards)

 

[Downwindtracker2]

The millwrights at where I had worked at, put our tool boxes on carts to roll around the mill.Each millwright deigned his own and the company supplied 8" casters. My design had two low tool boxes back to back, and one on top. One was a sheet metal and the other was a plywood one I had made. They together weighted 1100# I almost always used a small 2T forklift to carry it around. I was on my third sheet metal one when I retired, and the corners had already split and repaired with pop riveted corner braces. I was there twenty years. My plywood one had shallow drawers with good Blum ball bearing slides. Don't believe the claims made for those Chinese slides. Mine failed regularly on the sheet metal tool boxes. Millwrights have big heavy tools.

If you can find an old round corner Beach, they are heavier guage and last. You just don't get ball bearing slides.

 

[Bandit]

Pictures without guards.
Primary drive side, motor pulley- 2in., drives 6in. on jack shaft. Other end of jack shaft, secondary, stepped pulley, 2in ,2.5in., 3.25in., 4in. This drives a mirror stepped pulley of same sizes. Hope this helps, will leave guards off for the moment.

 

[gerritv]

given what (little) I know of the history of the shaper, the gentleman's father loved line shafts.
Any holes on the side are for belt guards as indicated in the subsequent post. The motor mounts with 4 bolts flat to the casting. Any 1/3hp motor running in the correct direction will do. 1725rpm of course.

 

[Susquatch]

Pictures without guards.

Thank you!

The pictures help a great deal. It's hard to see how to get two belts tensioned with that system. It's also hard to see how you get motor support in more than one plane.

I don't have gaurds for mine. Which doesn't bother me at all. I tend to remove most gaurds anyway. So maybe I can use the gaurd brackets in some useful way.

given what (little) I know of the history of the shaper, the gentleman's father loved line shafts.

That makes sense - especially for his generation. If so, there is probably no hope of finding the motor and its brackets.

Any holes on the side are for belt guards as indicated in the subsequent post.

Yes, I can see that now.

The motor mounts with 4 bolts flat to the casting.

Four? Hmmmmm, my casting has no holes other than the side ones for the cover.

 

[Susquatch]

@gerritv - I added a bracket photo above.

@Bandit, @gerritv, @TonyK - Do any of you think a 1/2hp motor instead of a 1/3hp motor might damage anything? I'm thinking not but I won't have a VFD to control spin up.

 

[140mower]

I doubt it will hurt anything, as you are not likely to push it anywhere near its max and you always start off the work piece and work your way in. I always run a stroke cycle with the power off by pulling the belt to confirm that all is clear prior to hitting the go button.

 

[Bandit]

The wing nut just tensions the secondary belt for allowing speed changes. It appears the motor mount pads are faintly there, but not drilled in the last picture you posted. My motor slides on 4 bolts, motor mount on motor slotted.
It may not matter with a 1/2hp motor?? Keep in mind a larger motor may have more mass to the armature, so stops slower. I do not have my belts very tight, a belt is way cheaper than other parts, eg. that fibre gear! Yes, I have slipped the secondary belt on occasion, even after roll though stoke with the knurled hand wheel, (too big of cut).

 

[Bandit]

Motor mounting. Appears you maybe able to do the same.

 

[gerritv]

@gerritv - I added a bracket photo above.

@Bandit, @gerritv, @TonyK - Do any of you think a 1/2hp motor instead of a 1/3hp motor might damage anything? I'm thinking not but I won't have a VFD to control spin up.

just don't take advantage of the extra power. As in no deep cuts.

The motor mount bracket has the pads, but as you noted no holes. this would make sense for a line drive system. Just drill/tap appropriate holes in middle of pads to match your motor.

The belts tension tehemselves due to the raius of the mountings vs the various pulleys. The Atlas mill, lathe are the same. Due to this it is somewhat important to get the correct length belts. Overtightening will heat up the jack shaft mount and wear other areas since these things only run in CI or bushings. Best that the belts slip anyway when needed than stripping the bull gear.

 

[gerritv]

For tool holders, make one of these and you don't need all the others. And can use small bits which means less grinding.

 

[Susquatch]

For tool holders, make one of these and you don't need all the others.

Did you see @140mower's tool?

 

[Susquatch]

@YYCHM - I was wondering who would be first. You didn't disappoint!