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My first high quality lathe tool

Susquatch

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I have a decent selection of indexable tools, but they are all low/medium quality high volume tools purchased in a set or individually on Amazon, EBay, or Ali.

After reading all the input all over the place on our forum I've decided to pull the trigger on my first high quality carbide cutting tool. I'm thinking a simple RHand Trigon tool to face and RH Turn. The reason for this choice is the 3 cutting tips and solidity to face and turn as well as the frequency of use (number of times I would use it).

I confess that the insert I use the most among my existing inserts is Trigon, so I'm a bit biased by that experience. But the other obvious choice is a rhombus insert - more common but fewer cutting points.

I'm wondering about with or without an anvil. The anvil would give me double the working points and a bit better attack angle, but would also drive the initial and ongoing costs. Is an anvil worth the cost and complexity?

I'll also get a small quantity of inserts for Stainless, Aluminium, and regular steel with different sizes of points.

All in all, this purchase will probably cost me a kings ransom, so I'm very nervous about doing it. It's almost worse than deciding to buy a new lathe! Ya, 50 years of using a lathe and I'm nervous about buying a new tool. Go figure!

If it were not for all the very positive comments about the advantages of a quality tool elsewhere I would not even be thinking about it. I'd just keep on doing what I have always done before.

Any advice or other things to think about here before I spend a whackload of coin and regret it?
 

thestelster

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My #1 turning tool is CCMT (80* Rhombic). It's a positive insert, so only 2 cutting faces.

An anvil/shim will usually come with the tool unless the tool is small. They are made of carbide and gives the cutting insert extra support and is replaceable if damaged. (I don't understand what you mean by "double the working points")

Get the largest or second largest tool that will fit into your tool post. My tool post holder has a shelf 3/4" wide and 1" tall. So, I use 3/4" x 3/4" square shank tools.

You'll spend literally a fortune getting all those inserts of various geometries (fine, medium, roughing) and grades for the different materials. But Sandvik, and I am sure other companies, have a mixed production insert when you are machining different materials regularly (i.e. P (steel), M (stainless), K (cast Iron)) (Jack of all trades; master of none, but for me they work perfectly well)
 

Susquatch

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. (I don't understand what you mean by "double the working points")

Flip it upside down to double the working points.

You'll spend literally a fortune getting all those inserts of various geometries (fine, medium, roughing) and grades for the different materials. But Sandvik, and I am sure other companies, have a mixed production insert when you are machining different materials regularly (i.e. P (steel), M (stainless), K (cast Iron)) (Jack of all trades; master of none, but for me they work perfectly well)

Yes, I understand the inserts will cost me a fortune. I didn't know I could get a mixed production insert from Sandvik. I might do that given your advice and experience.

Right now I'm leaning toward Sandvik or Kennametal anyway.

My tool post holder has a shelf 3/4" wide and 1" tall. So, I use 3/4" x 3/4" square shank tools.

My tool holder as is, is BXA which means 5/8ths tools. I do have a few factory tall tool holders though that will fit 3/4" tools. I don't know what the shelf width is off hand though. I've also milled one of my holders to fit 1" tools, and I plan to make a 1" parting blade tool holder too so I don't have to use big blades with a cantilevered holder that reduces rigidity.

However, I'd prefer to stick with the standard 5/8 size for this particular experiment in order to avoid compromising any of the other performance criteria and maximize the chance of learning something. If there is a compelling reason to go 3/4", I could do that. But it would have to be compelling because it does push me out onto a limb. If 3/4 were that common on a BXA, then it would be standard.
 

thestelster

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I just did a quick check on the Sandvik site. Using a trigon WNMG 332 insert which has an iC (inscribed circle) of 3/8", the smallest tool is 3/4" x 3/4".
 

Susquatch

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I just did a quick check on the Sandvik site. Using a trigon WNMG 332 insert which has an iC (inscribed circle) of 3/8", the smallest tool is 3/4" x 3/4".

Let me look at my tall holders.
They are 3/4 high but I don't think they are 3/4 wide.
 

thestelster

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They do make a 16mm x 16mm (0.629"), tool but using CNMG (80° Rhombic inserts) at least you get 4 cutting edges per insert.
 

thestelster

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Sandvik DWLNR 1616H 06 tool $138.00

Sandvik WNMG 331 inserts, $15-18 each depending on the coating. (But you have to buy in packs of 10)
 

Susquatch

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Sandvik DWLNR 1616H 06 tool $138.00

Sandvik WNMG 331 inserts, $15-18 each depending on the coating. (But you have to buy in packs of 10)

Thanks @thestelster !

Ya, before I even read the cost of inserts I sat down. Makes me wonder if I am doing the right thing here. I am hoping my jobber can get this stuff for me. They have a store policy of quantity of 10, but I am a good customer and they have said they would break packages like that for me into smaller quantities as long as the insert is reasonably popular.
 

Dabbler

ersatz engineer
They do make a 16mm x 16mm (0.629"), tool but using CNMG (80° Rhombic inserts) at least you get 4 cutting edges per insert.

Hey, I just found that they do make a 16x16mm tool for WNMG
Flip it upside down to double the working points.
The second letter has to be a "N" to get double the cutting edges

WNMG would be a great choice....

I want to tool up for CNMG 400 series inserts *very soon now* or, as finances permit.
 
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