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Motor thermal switch

trlvn said:
Um, you really need to check the motor tag. The overload control exists to protect the motor from going up in smoke if it is...well...overloaded. I assume the "11" means that the overload control will pass up to 11 amps for an extended period of time. If your motor is rated for less than 11 amps, you risk overheating and destroying it. Even potentially causing a fire.

BTW, 11 amps at 230 volts is more than 1.5 horsepower for a typical AC induction motor. A motor could start pulling more than amps than it used to if, say, the motor bearings are shot. The extra draw would be because of increased friction. But there could be other problems, like poor connections* that were already pointed out, or even a combination of problems.

Craig
* The resulting arcing can also be a fire risk.
Click to expand...
Yes I do plan on doing that. I'd be very surprised if the motor amperage is as high as 11. The lathe label claims 1.5hp but the "manual" says 1hp.
 
I fully agree check all connections (including in the motor). I would also suggest that you look at getting the overload replaced as I've mentioned before these are a wear item and do de-rate themselves over time or under extreme use conditions or over current draw (ie not perfect voltage feeds or loose connections or frequent starts). The good issue I think your motor is likely fine but check for tightness (and what it is rated for).
 
trlvn said:
Um, you really need to check the motor tag. The overload control exists to protect the motor from going up in smoke if it is...well...overloaded. I assume the "11" means that the overload control will pass up to 11 amps for an extended period of time. If your motor is rated for less than 11 amps, you risk overheating and destroying it. Even potentially causing a fire.

BTW, 11 amps at 230 volts is more than 1.5 horsepower for a typical AC induction motor. A motor could start pulling more than amps than it used to if, say, the motor bearings are shot. The extra draw would be because of increased friction. But there could be other problems, like poor connections* that were already pointed out, or even a combination of problems.

Craig
* The resulting arcing can also be a fire risk.
Click to expand...
So the best I can read on the label is 1100 W and 7.2 A which I presume means 1100 watts and 7.2 amps, but that doesn't figure in any horsepower rating I see claimed on the lathe label or manual.
Other info on motor painted over hard to read label is:
220 volt
1720 rpm
Single Phase AC
 
Hate to say 1100w divided by 110v is 10amps not 7.2, now if its 1100w divided by 220v its 5amps. Allowing for some loses 12 and 7 respectively.

This explains why the you needed to up it.
 
Degen said:
Hate to say 1100w divided by 110v is 10amps not 7.2, now if its 1100w divided by 220v its 5amps. Allowing for some loses 12 and 7 respectively.

This explains why the you needed to up it.
Click to expand...
Yes I have no idea what the original setting was at but I've adjusted it about as low as I can to allow it to run freely with no kick off, I suspect I will have to up it a bit when I get it under a load, I just want to be safe.
 
I looked at the picture you initially posted. ;)

1653613722539.gif
 
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