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Modifying my truck cap for the in bed fuel tank

TonyK

Ultra Member
Premium Member
In another post in the welding form I made an aux fuel tank for my RAM 2500 pickup truck with 6.7 Cummins engine. The problem is how to access the fuel filler when the cap is on the truck? Crawling through the back and over stuff when I travel is a problem. The solution is to make the front glass window open for access when I am fueling the truck.

I had great ideas that well, were ideas and then complication set in and I had to settle for what you see. More explaining as the post continues.

For working access I placed my truck cap on my car trailer with a few 2x4's and backed it into the work bay of the shop.

IMG_6702.JPG

First step is to make a template from card board for the size of the window frame.
IMG_6701.JPG
Using the template I laid out the 2 ends of the frame. Holes were to allow for change in direction of my band saw.
IMG_6703.JPG
2" x 1/8" flat stock is TIG welded to the end sections.
IMG_6705.JPG
A stiffener is bent from 6061 1/2" x 1/8" flat stock. To do the bends the stock is heated with a propane torch. Without heating the stock will crack and break.
IMG_6706.JPG
Clamps are used to position the stock for welding.
IMG_6708.JPG

The back side is welded as well.
IMG_6710.JPG
With a bit of practice welds like these are obtainable.
IMG_6712.JPG
And here is where things started to go wrong. I wanted a flush hinge but the glass panel is larger than the opening. Not seeing this I bent up a hinge from 1/8" x 2" stainless steel. Here the 6" Record vise and the Lee Valley vise break are working to their maximums with cold forming.
IMG_6713.JPG
I had to look up how aircraft can swing a door out of the way. Well, they use 2 pivot hinges with rollers and trackways, Not going to happen so I cut the hinges and now made the exposed. Maybe some day someone with some engineering background will send me a sketch to contemplate. Here is how it is going to have to happen.
IMG_6715.JPG
Not sure on this form how many pictures I can post. Some other forms only allow 10 pictures, so I will add another post to this one.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
In another post in the welding form I made an aux fuel tank for my RAM 2500 pickup truck with 6.7 Cummins engine. The problem is how to access the fuel filler when the cap is on the truck? Crawling through the back and over stuff when I travel is a problem. The solution is to make the front glass window open for access when I am fueling the truck.

I had great ideas that well, were ideas and then complication set in and I had to settle for what you see. More explaining as the post continues.

For working access I placed my truck cap on my car trailer with a few 2x4's and backed it into the work bay of the shop.

View attachment 84605

First step is to make a template from card board for the size of the window frame.
View attachment 84608
Using the template I laid out the 2 ends of the frame. Holes were to allow for change in direction of my band saw.
View attachment 84610
2" x 1/8" flat stock is TIG welded to the end sections.
View attachment 84611
A stiffener is bent from 6061 1/2" x 1/8" flat stock. To do the bends the stock is heated with a propane torch. Without heating the stock will crack and break.
View attachment 84612
Clamps are used to position the stock for welding.
View attachment 84613

The back side is welded as well.
View attachment 84614
With a bit of practice welds like these are obtainable.
View attachment 84615
And here is where things started to go wrong. I wanted a flush hinge but the glass panel is larger than the opening. Not seeing this I bent up a hinge from 1/8" x 2" stainless steel. Here the 6" Record vise and the Lee Valley vise break are working to their maximums with cold forming.
View attachment 84616
I had to look up how aircraft can swing a door out of the way. Well, they use 2 pivot hinges with rollers and trackways, Not going to happen so I cut the hinges and now made the exposed. Maybe some day someone with some engineering background will send me a sketch to contemplate. Here is how it is going to have to happen.
View attachment 84617
Not sure on this form how many pictures I can post. Some other forms only allow 10 pictures, so I will add another post to this one.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
Carrying on.

Holes were drilled to mount the window with the same mounting system to the frame rather than the truck cap body.
IMG_6716.JPG

As you can see the glass is now proud from the OEM set up but it can open.
IMG_6717.JPG
I used a push on trim seal that can be purchased from Princess Auto, I had some left over from one of my Fiat X1/9 cars. I also installed a Stainless Steel latch that is operated by a pull to release cable and ring located at the back of the truck lift gate window.
IMG_6719.JPG
I purchased 2 Gas Lift Struts to hold the window open. I ordered 30 pound lift struts. The issue is that they are way to strong and when closing the window they need a lot of force and present significant twisting on the aluminum frame which in turn applies stress to the tempered glass window. I have on order 2 10 pound gas struts which should be better for this application.
IMG_6718.JPG

For now I will use these bolts for hinge pins with locking roll pins. Possibly I may make some stainless pins if these rust.

IMG_6720.JPG


When I get this all completed I will post pictures.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada
 
It has been awhile since I have posted. Have not purchased a 3D printer, still need the nudge that it is what I need.

For the most part of this warm part of the year it has been dealing with installing a new roof. I ordered 175 bundles, still have 58 sitting, but I think I will be short. Will look into this next year when the weather breaks.
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Back to the truck cap and I really wasn't happy on how it turned out. Functional, yes, but it bugged me. The glass protruded too far, the hinges were not correct and the glass pinched the body of the truck cap.
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Seeing that I normally do things by seat of the pants engineering and that no body on this form suggested a better way of making a hinge, I looked up how Aviation hinges on aircraft bodies work. With that thought in mind I made up a model and used it along with a section of wire rod to figure out what was required to make a hinge that allowed the glass side panel to move clear of the truck cap.
IMG_7018.JPG

I then proceeded to make hinges from 3/16" x 1.5" stainless flat stock. The forming was done in my No 6 Record vise with a Lee Valley vise break.
IMG_7020.JPG
Although this worked, I was at capacity for the vise and break.
The hinge barrels were made from 5/8" Stainless steel and TIG welded to flat stock to mount them.
IMG_7021.JPG
The vise Break could not bend the 90 degree bend in the hinge so I used my 22 ton hydraulic press. The pressure gauge showed 4 tons on the break to bend the 90 degree bend.
IMG_7022.JPG

The hinge pins were 8MM x 1.25 bolts with small hair pins to keep the bolts from walking.
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Installed the glass move clear of the truck cap.

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I forgot to take a finished picture, but the glass now sits closer to the cap body. The reality is for it to look flush as without the hinge for access to fill the diesel tank in the truck box, I would have to make a recessed flange around where the window is. Not beyond my ability, but for now I am good with it as it is better than it was before.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Are you concerned about the glass being proud of the body line of the cap?
I ask because our travel trailer has frameless windows which leave the glass about 1/2 inch proud of the side of the camper and as a result, I think, we have had one of the side windows shatter twice. I'm pretty sure it is from rocks being thrown up from either passing vehicles or, more likely, from the tow vehicle. I installed a full width flap on the back of the tow vehicle before towing the trailer but am still out 2 windows. I replaced the last one with plexiglass. We live on a gravel road and have to travel 10 km before we hit pavement. This summer my wife went only a mile before the window broke for the second time. Tempered glass doesn't like having stones thrown at it.
 
In my own thought, it just didn't look right so now it is about 1/2" closer to the cap body. Tempered glass, terrible. Years ago I was helping my son install porcilin title in his home. All finished for the day I was packing up the drill that had a mixing paddle on it on the back patio and flicked the cord of the drill. On the cord was the chuck key, it hit the sliding door glass 3/4"from the frame and shattered the glass on the door 36" x 96". $800CND for a new glass and frame. I never thought of a stone hitting the pane, but you bring home a very good point of concern. Thank you.

TonyK.

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
I have adhered clear vinyl tubing, split lengthwise, to the forward facing edges and bottoms of the remaining windows. The plexiglass replacement window, I just glued it directly to the weatherstripping so it will no longer open. The plexi isn't stiff enough to properly compress the weatherstripping and make a seal as the windows are hinged at the top. The whole setup of the windows is shockingly stupid, I think.
 
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