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Modern 9x49 mill, $1000, Belchin, ON
- Thread starter quitereal
- Start date
Chipper5783
Super User
Yes, that is true - the mill in question has a Reeves drive style head (variable on top of variable). The VFD conversion is a bit of a project (not a big deal - I’ve done it to a lathe and a drill press, nice to have but not a game changer) and doesn’t address the 575v supply - he still needs a motor or rewind.
The two mills I have on the 575v system have two motors each. You are correct that each motor could be converted to lower voltage, and run off separate VFDs - the attractive feature in my situation is a one time effort to connect the transformer, then just plug in the machine with no modifications and it works like the original manufacturer intended. The OP’s situation may be different, such that a motor rework might be the easiest approach?
Once upon a time, I looked it exactly the same way that you do. I see it very differently today.
If I happened to buy a 1ph 230V machine with a variable speed drive on it, I would still want to replace the motor with a 230V 3ph one that was VFD Rated.
That's because I DO view a VFD Rated motor and a VFD as a GAME CHANGER! Yes, the variable speed is nice. And if that's the only feature of a VFD that a fellow wants, then it isn't a game changer. BUT, if you value the full range variable speed, high torque, start stop smoothness, braking control, and liquid smooth motor control of SLV based VFD Control of a VFD Rated motor, then IT IS a different game altogether. It's a true game changer.
The silky smooth acceleration, braking, and especially the smooth steady state running with varying load alone has to be seen, felt, and heard to believe how amazing it is. Anyone who has not ever experienced that needs to try it at least once even if they have to use someone else's machine.
I dunno. Once a motor is setup on a VFD, it's a one time deal. Just turn it on and go. No wires to swap. Dirt simple. But ya, Setup isn't simple, and a new motor and VFD are not cheap. I don't think you can simply rewind 2ph to 3ph. But 3ph to 3ph is done all the time.
PatrickT
Active Member
Sorry, no pictures today, but I moved the Modern 9X49 to my storage unit, solo, with a u-haul 6X12 with ramp and U-haul pickup truck.
The mill had been moved to a quansa hut in the front yard of the seller's place, and the ground was super soft, so I had to limit trailer corrections to keep from chewing it up. It had beed stored well, with oil-soaked cloth on all surfaces, and a weather tight cover over it.
The head & ram was removed- 400lbs I suppose, and on a pallet. Used my 2-ton engine hoist to lift it, backed the trailer under it, built a wheeled cradle from moving dollies($19 Princess Auto), and some 2x4 lumber. Pushed that to the front of the trailer. Easy. Head sits upright, very easy to move around and pick up, by slinging forward of the motor, then using a ratchet strap from the hoist to the rams eye bolt to level it.
The base, with bed & knee was challenging. It was on 2x6's, which had sunk into the soft grass at varying levels. Lifted with the hoist at the 1.5T length, after laying down some scrap ply. Backed the ramp under it, braced the ramp, lowered it on to some more ply, then used two 2T come-alongs and some slings to drag it forward. Done. Amazing arm workout, but I sweat like a pig.
That was about two hours of solid work. Plus two hours of driving.
At the storage unit, I screwed a d-ring into the concrete(SHHHHH!!) at the back of the unit, then backet the trailer right ip to it's 6" lip. Dropped the gate and used the engine hoist as a dolly, this time lifting it just so it cleared at the 2Ton arm setting, and pulled it off with the come-alongs. Hoist wheels dug into the ply and needed some pursuading and steering on the ramp, but it went smoothly, and the hoist 's six wheeled configuration made the 1.5" transition off the ramp with no issues.
I jacked the tongue of the trailer up to induce some incline, and the head and ram rolled right off in a minute, without any rigging needed
I used, from my tool kit:
1-Engine hoist.
12 ratchet straps
2- 2T come-along hand winches
2-48" 3ton slings
4 24"X 1" climbing webbing slings(3600lb rated).
2X 24"x 72" pieces of ply.
2X 48X48" pieces of ply for uneven ground and protecting the trailer gate's steel mesh.
2X 2x4 cut for cribbing and trailer leveling, pry bar wedges.
1x 4x4x48" post section for leveling.
1-3/8 16 eyebolt
Hammer drill.
Uhaul was about $150, gas was $30 for a 170km round trip.
I'll post some pics when I start cleaning it up, but it's in great shape, like a showroom condition demo unit with a little storage dirt on it. Bed has some surface rust, ram ways have some surface rust, but there's lube everywhere else.
Thank you CMHW and members for posting this listing up, I was able to get an amazing mill for nothing, aside for a days hard work. Looking forward to sharing it's rehab and assembly.
P
****Edit:
Next time I have to move it, I'll be building a low profile carriage out of angle iron, with 6 1000lb casters. I think this is a good tool to have around the shop, but I haven't seen a good design that allows them to be mounted to a mill, then jacked up. I'm thinking butterfly bolts that could be inserted into the base, then spun up with an impact driver, might do the trick. I'd also consider making a decent portable electric winch that can run off some dewalt packs or similar, with at least a 5 ton capacity.
It's getting hard to find reliable machinery moving companies, I got quoted $2600 for this move.
The mill had been moved to a quansa hut in the front yard of the seller's place, and the ground was super soft, so I had to limit trailer corrections to keep from chewing it up. It had beed stored well, with oil-soaked cloth on all surfaces, and a weather tight cover over it.
The head & ram was removed- 400lbs I suppose, and on a pallet. Used my 2-ton engine hoist to lift it, backed the trailer under it, built a wheeled cradle from moving dollies($19 Princess Auto), and some 2x4 lumber. Pushed that to the front of the trailer. Easy. Head sits upright, very easy to move around and pick up, by slinging forward of the motor, then using a ratchet strap from the hoist to the rams eye bolt to level it.
The base, with bed & knee was challenging. It was on 2x6's, which had sunk into the soft grass at varying levels. Lifted with the hoist at the 1.5T length, after laying down some scrap ply. Backed the ramp under it, braced the ramp, lowered it on to some more ply, then used two 2T come-alongs and some slings to drag it forward. Done. Amazing arm workout, but I sweat like a pig.
That was about two hours of solid work. Plus two hours of driving.
At the storage unit, I screwed a d-ring into the concrete(SHHHHH!!) at the back of the unit, then backet the trailer right ip to it's 6" lip. Dropped the gate and used the engine hoist as a dolly, this time lifting it just so it cleared at the 2Ton arm setting, and pulled it off with the come-alongs. Hoist wheels dug into the ply and needed some pursuading and steering on the ramp, but it went smoothly, and the hoist 's six wheeled configuration made the 1.5" transition off the ramp with no issues.
I jacked the tongue of the trailer up to induce some incline, and the head and ram rolled right off in a minute, without any rigging needed
I used, from my tool kit:
1-Engine hoist.
12 ratchet straps
2- 2T come-along hand winches
2-48" 3ton slings
4 24"X 1" climbing webbing slings(3600lb rated).
2X 24"x 72" pieces of ply.
2X 48X48" pieces of ply for uneven ground and protecting the trailer gate's steel mesh.
2X 2x4 cut for cribbing and trailer leveling, pry bar wedges.
1x 4x4x48" post section for leveling.
1-3/8 16 eyebolt
Hammer drill.
Uhaul was about $150, gas was $30 for a 170km round trip.
I'll post some pics when I start cleaning it up, but it's in great shape, like a showroom condition demo unit with a little storage dirt on it. Bed has some surface rust, ram ways have some surface rust, but there's lube everywhere else.
Thank you CMHW and members for posting this listing up, I was able to get an amazing mill for nothing, aside for a days hard work. Looking forward to sharing it's rehab and assembly.
P
****Edit:
Next time I have to move it, I'll be building a low profile carriage out of angle iron, with 6 1000lb casters. I think this is a good tool to have around the shop, but I haven't seen a good design that allows them to be mounted to a mill, then jacked up. I'm thinking butterfly bolts that could be inserted into the base, then spun up with an impact driver, might do the trick. I'd also consider making a decent portable electric winch that can run off some dewalt packs or similar, with at least a 5 ton capacity.
It's getting hard to find reliable machinery moving companies, I got quoted $2600 for this move.
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Congrats on your scoop, looks like you did very well for yourself!
You are 100% correct, a dolly/carriage is a handy tool to have around the shop!
I don’t know if you’ve noticed the thread where I talked about picking up my First mill, it’s called “Tecnico’s First Mill” (I’d link it but I’m on my iPad right now). I built a bolt together, castered dolly for the move. There might be a few things in there that you could use on your dolly. Start around post #12, then updates at post #32.
Moderator Edit - here is the thread: https://canadianhobbymetalworkers.com/threads/tecnicos-first-mill.5119/post-82465
I built the dolly for the move and to position it in the shop. Bottom line, I assembled the dolly under the mill for the move and pulled it up onto the same U-Haul trailer you had with a come-along. Easy peasy except for a little arm workout!
All I needed to put it on the dolly was wrenches, a roller lever bar, some blocking and a floor jack so no messing around with hoists and cranes.
I eventually added a tow bar and steered casters for better control, ‘way better than herding swivel casters! My plan in the shop was to jack it up, take the casters off and let it sit on the floor or just dismantle the dolly and set the mill on the floor.
I used the same dolly when I picked up my SM1120 lathe so it’s definitely paid for itself!
Anyhow, maybe there’s something useful there for your carriage/dolly.
D
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Steered casters??? That sounds VERY INTERESTING! Would come in very handy for my farm equipment Dolly's! Please tell us more. Links?
In my thread quoted above, post 32, there are a couple of photos. Basically I bolted a steering arm on the caster using the axle bolt and tied both casters together on a pitman arm using toe links.
Not having to herd swiveling casters makes a huge difference in shuffling heavy things around the shop. “Game changer”
If you really want versatility, there are casters that have 4 position swivel locks so they can be either fixed or swivel. Good for that last bit to snuggle something up to a wall.
D
Not having to herd swiveling casters makes a huge difference in shuffling heavy things around the shop. “Game changer”
Great idea! I've always manually turned the casters with my hands if I can or with a big monkey wrench for the really heavy stuff.
I didn't know about lockable or steerable casters. I like your idea of steering arms, but I'm not sure if I have room for that on any of my existing dollies. I usually make my dollies low profile so the machine isn't too far off the floor. I am also fond of fixed wheels at the back and castors at the front so I have some primitive level of steerability. I'm not making new dollies but I might replace the caster itself. Anyway, it seems like I make one or two dollies a year, so another one is right around the corner. Thanks for the ideas!