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Milling machine working height?

I didn't notice until you pointed it out. Looks like a super simple fix if it did irk you? Or chip tray?

Oh yea it would be an easy fix, but it doesn't really bug me, half the time I don't close the drawer all the way anyhow, so chips would end up in there either way.
 
For the most part I hate my size. I get quite tired of being asked to change the light bulbs all the time, finding clothes that fit, and trying to tie my shoes. Then I read about you guys needing a stool to reach the draw bar. The grass is always greener.
Lol...... I've never understood this step stool thing either. I can change a light bulb on an eight foot ceiling, flat footed...... Only time I consider using a stool is if I need to do up my top shirt button, but since both daughters are now married, I reckon that will be the undertakers problem next time.....;)

Well, there! I've found a couple of guys I can see eye to eye with on the forum! :D

For a moment I thought about a small step stool but after trying it I can see the draw bar and reach it comfortably.
The rest of the story? My First (BP clone) has a 4" riser and it's on a dolly that raises it about 3-1/2" when it's on its wheels so it's up there a ways for the average bear. Means I don't have to bend over as far to wind the knee up too which is a good thing.

D:cool:
 
How high would you want the current stand raised? Perhaps set it on two 4X4 or two 6X4 would do the trick?

The current stand appears to have a power switch on it, which may be something you want to keep?
Thanks. I think you're right, and that might be a temporary solution as fencing, blackberry removal and ditching sucking up all my time.

I would like to build a stand though and think I can improve on the 17ga(?) unit it's sitting on now. Drawers would be nice, maybe place to hang some tools off, some kind of retractable wheel/adjustable leg height setup, back door access to a coolant pump/tank, wet bar, stereo... haha. Really just a chance to play with my toys and pretend I'm a fabricator I guess.

It's a poor picture, but that little chrome switch is a pull up latch to open the cabinet door. I do need on/off switch and emergency stop as they were removed when vfd installed(?)
Currently plug and play :rolleyes:
 
Is there a rule of thumb or something for best working height ergonomics while standing at mill? For example, sitting at desk forearms 90 degrees at desk height?

The model is Zay 7045FG.

Current stand/cupboard much to low as is and calling it 16 gauge would be generous. If I build something what height should I be shooting for?

Searched and found lots on tool height, not what I was after.

Thanks.
I have some bad disks in my back and any kind of stooping is painful. I raised both my mill and my lathe. The lathe about 3 inches and the mill about 6. With the knee raised almost to the top it places the vice at my shoulder level. I don't find it too high. My only regret is that I didn't do it 20 years ago when I first got the machines. I can just reach (on tippy toes) the draw bolt.

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More than a few tall guys on here. There is also @Chicken lights , @LenVW, @Six O Two, to name just a few. Pretty sure there are dozens of others just going by the comments I've noticed along the way.

I do vaguely recall making a height-related comment somewhere, but it was surely meant sarcastically (which admittedly is sometimes hard to get across online) -- I am the opposite of tall, wikipedia puts me a couple inches shy of average canadian male height.

I can *just* wrench the top of my drawbar with my mill on the floor... With a knee mill since table height moves about so much, I haven't really thought much of the working height as an ergonomic parameter. But I'm thinking of putting the mill on levelling feet which would raise it up some and might require me to use a step stool to change collets. Which has me planning a pneumatic drawbar contraption. My mill needs a good overhaul first though, so it's a bit down the line in terms of projects.
 
I'm 6'2 in my shoes. I do find my Bridgeport style knee mill too low in most cases. Most of the pertinent controls move up/down with the knee height, so there doesn't seem to be a good solution. I think I'd like to add maybe 2" to the base height.

My Emco 13x40 lathe is on 4" risers, and the SM 1660 is going to get a 3" lift kit soon.
 
I do vaguely recall making a height-related comment somewhere, but it was surely meant sarcastically (which admittedly is sometimes hard to get across online)

Ain't that the truth! I love sarcasm but it's really hard to do online. Sorry I put you in with the giraffes.

I've been thinking of putting my controls (speed, E-Stop, direction, etc) in a panel box on the motor flange - a good 6 inches above and behind the drawbar on my Hartford Bridgeport Clone. That's perfect for me, but after reading your post, it's prolly not a very wise choice for anyone else using my mill let alone for some future resale.
 
@ducdon Thanks, pics really help. Man that is a nice unit.

Measured mine and figured I needed to lift ~16" from current position. Thought that must have been wrong until I saw your #3. Great view of work, comfortable, all without stooping. Nice.

Realise now my lathe is to low. Such an easy fix and I just lived with it. Crazy.
 
@ducdon Thanks, pics really help. Man that is a nice unit.

Measured mine and figured I needed to lift ~16" from current position. Thought that must have been wrong until I saw your #3. Great view of work, comfortable, all without stooping. Nice.

Realise now my lathe is to low. Such an easy fix and I just lived with it. Crazy.
I had never thought about it before, but the advantage to a mill with a fixed table as opposed to a knee. You can put the table at a height that's comfortable and it's always at that height.
 
We stand at our mills and lathes a lot.
Make sure it’s comfortable for you !!

I built a drill press stand that has my Chuck Height at 62”.
My KING mill’s Vise Height is at 50”.
 

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My mini mill works for me, but I do miss the Knee Height Control as opposed to the watching the Spindle movement. The KING Mill has a .030” vertical slop to keep an eye on and control with the spindle locks.

I do miss the 602 Knee Mill that we used at Ex-Cell-O in the 1980s.
Depth control was easy with the Knee Crank and much more robust & stable at 3600 lbs.

I am looking to add more bracing to my column assembly down the road because my Carbide Inserted Flycutter can easily hog off 1/4” cuts of MS.

For now the Mini-Mill will suffice.
 
My mini mill works for me, but I do miss the Knee Height Control as opposed to the watching the Spindle movement. The KING Mill has a .030” vertical slop to keep an eye on and control with the spindle locks.

I do miss the 602 Knee Mill that we used at Ex-Cell-O in the 1980s.
Depth control was easy with the Knee Crank and much more robust & stable at 3600 lbs.

I am looking to add more bracing to my column assembly down the road because my Carbide Inserted Flycutter can easily hog off 1/4” cuts of MS.

For now the Mini-Mill will suffice.
Admitted noob, but never would have guessed 1/4" fly cutter cuts. Fascinating following the upgrades/capabilities over stock units. Grizzly 0602 comes to mind.

Not sure how I missed your stand. Just thought of a couple things I could use tripod for. Apparently my awareness matches my inability to think outside the box haha.
 
Admitted noob, but never would have guessed 1/4" fly cutter cuts. Fascinating following the upgrades/capabilities over stock units. Grizzly 0602 comes to mind.

Not sure how I missed your stand. Just thought of a couple things I could use tripod for. Apparently my awareness matches my inability to think outside the box haha.
Just to clarify . . .
I was talking about Ex-Cell-O ‘Knee Mills’ (Model #602)
Typically : 2hp and 9 x 36” table

I was an apprentice machinist at the Special Tools Division in the 1980s.
 
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