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Mill dro

Search on mill dro on the forum. Lots of members have done it. Lots of us are very happy.
 
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I have a KING 3/4hp Mill that I added an IGAGING EasyView DRO.
See the photos.
It does not have a round column, but you can get creative.
 
Here’s mine, RF30 round column with Amazon $300 DRO.

Y-axis is nice and solid, a few chunks of aluminum angle, drilled and tapped a couple of holes in the base. Notched angle bar to clear the x-axis lead screw.

X-axis attaches to the limit switch slot in the front of the table, with a couple of holes drilled and tapped for the reader head. PITA, it blocks the travel locks. New Years project is to pull it all apart and drill and tap the table to mount the scale and reader on the back of the table closer to the column. I’ll lose a bit of table travel but will then regain use of the travel locks.

Z-axis is inside the mill head, completely protected. Drilled a couple of holes to mount the read head, and Rube-Goldberged a bracket to connect the scale. Head is fixed, scale moves. Other New Years project is to fabricate a better scale mounting arrangement.

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I installed a new DRO on my round column a couple of months ago. Start at:


Craig
 
My mill/drill did not have a hole in the casting behind the spindle like the others so I searched out an alternate solution on the internet. Mine is not as nice as what I found, but it works. The X and Y are modelled after @DavidR8 install on his previous mill/drill.


Z axis 1.jpg
Z axis 2.jpg
Z axis 3.jpg
X axis 1.jpg
Y axis 1.jpg
Y axis 2.jpg
 
I would recommend making a small block for a drill and tapping guide so you get the holes and taps straight. That is what I did with a small (maybe 1.5" x 3" x0.5" thick) piece of aluminum. You can hold it in place by hand or a clamp when you need both hands. I used it start the drill and the tap. One hole for the drill size and one hole tapped so I could tap through from the block for the first few threads then remove the block. Just mark the holes so you don't drill the threaded one.
 
I think it did briefly, but not any longer for me. Sorry I didn't see that this post was older. Hope your installation went well.
 
Morning Gary
I’m a little late seeing this thread - but your last picture indicates you have not done the install yet. - so here’s how I installed the X scale (Y & Z have lots of room and thus a bit easier)

I have an X power feed limit switch at the front, so I put the X dro scale/reader at the back.
I don’t notice, until later, but the X scale was covering access to this gib oiler:
IMG_3183.jpeg
I should have installed it higher up. Also, the installation at the rear takes away about 1” of Y travel. Since I needed to relocate it (to get access to the oiler), I decided to move it to the front (and get back that Y travel)
Here a pic of the front of my RF45 clone
IMG_3190.jpeg
The blue bracket holds both the X dro reader and the X power feed limit switch as seen here:
IMG_3191.jpegIMG_3184.jpeg
Here the pencil is on the X magnetic scale
IMG_3185.jpeg
This shows access to the oiler:
IMG_3186.jpeg

While crouched down there taking those pictures - here’s a couple shots of the linkage for the Y gib lock
IMG_3187.jpegIMG_3189.jpeg
 
Morning Gary
I’m a little late seeing this thread - but your last picture indicates you have not done the install yet. - so here’s how I installed the X scale (Y & Z have lots of room and thus a bit easier)

I have an X power feed limit switch at the front, so I put the X dro scale/reader at the back.
I don’t notice, until later, but the X scale was covering access to this gib oiler:
View attachment 58134
I should have installed it higher up. Also, the installation at the rear takes away about 1” of Y travel. Since I needed to relocate it (to get access to the oiler), I decided to move it to the front (and get back that Y travel)
Here a pic of the front of my RF45 clone
View attachment 58135
The blue bracket holds both the X dro reader and the X power feed limit switch as seen here:
View attachment 58136View attachment 58137
Here the pencil is on the X magnetic scale
View attachment 58138
This shows access to the oiler:
View attachment 58139

While crouched down there taking those pictures - here’s a couple shots of the linkage for the Y gib lock
View attachment 58140View attachment 58141
I think I'm done just some clean up (isn't there always).
I covered the oiler on the back so not sure what I'm going to do about that. The scale on the back only cost me 2 or 3 mm so not too bad.
I have a few pictures and can post if anyone is interested.
 
Morning Gary
I’m a little late seeing this thread - but your last picture indicates you have not done the install yet. - so here’s how I installed the X scale (Y & Z have lots of room and thus a bit easier)

I have an X power feed limit switch at the front, so I put the X dro scale/reader at the back.
I don’t notice, until later, but the X scale was covering access to this gib oiler:
View attachment 58134
I should have installed it higher up. Also, the installation at the rear takes away about 1” of Y travel. Since I needed to relocate it (to get access to the oiler), I decided to move it to the front (and get back that Y travel)
Here a pic of the front of my RF45 clone
View attachment 58135
The blue bracket holds both the X dro reader and the X power feed limit switch as seen here:
View attachment 58136View attachment 58137
Here the pencil is on the X magnetic scale
View attachment 58138
This shows access to the oiler:
View attachment 58139

While crouched down there taking those pictures - here’s a couple shots of the linkage for the Y gib lock
View attachment 58140View attachment 58141
I like the y gib lock. Did you make that? I use it to get my hand dirty.
 
w pictures and can post if anyone is interested
On the Forum we love pictures - post away (also pics often get an interesting discussion started because of something in the background)
You will have to deal with the covered-up oiler!! The magnetic strip (tape) is the important part of the X magnetic scale. The aluminum housing is much wider than the tape. Take off one of the ends, slip out the SS cover, trim the aluminum housing (for an inch or so), and give yourself an access spot to the oiler. If the tape is not centered in the aluminum housing, you can flip it over and then trim some more. Flipping it will only just change whether left to right is +ve or -ve.
 
that Y lock I am totally going to borrow that!
You might also like my Z gib locks.
After installing the Z counter balance, moving the head up or down was much easier and I could then do it from the front of the machine (using a smaller and faster wheel instead of a large crank). I added a Z gib linkage so that I could reach both the Z wheel (on the left) and activate the gib locks at the same time.
View from front, note Z wheel on left and lever on right:IMG_3221.jpeg
View of counterbalance cables and Z gib locks linkage:
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and a couple of closer views of the linkage:
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