Magnetic contactor

[LRSbm146]

Having an electrical issue with my lathe and hopefully someone around here knows the answer. I haven’t had a chance to search the internet yet on this.
The lathe is a CT-1440G and has no manufacturer markings on it or the manual but it was available under a couple different brand names.
The problem.... the contactor for forward rotation is stuck in the on position and the only way to make the machine shop is to pull the plug. A quick search showed that this is a common problem and the original is discontinued. Wasn’t able to find a direct replacement part number.
Any information would be great.

 

[Tom Kitta]

Just get a similar on off aliexpress, should not be more then about $30 including shipping.

 

[DavidR8]

I'm always a bit leering about buying mission-critical electrical components from Aliexpress.

 

[LRSbm146]

@TorontoBuilder @David_R8 being that I’m a welder and not an electrician.... I wouldn’t be comfortable ordering that part from AliExpress.
I did stop at an electrical wholesaler on my way to work tonight. The guy wasn’t an electrician but took down the specs, so we’ll have to see where that goes. Also have our purchaser at work going to look into it tomorrow. Might try giving our overhead crane guy a call too.

 

[DavidR8]

@TorontoBuilder @David_R8 being that I’m a welder and not an electrician.... I wouldn’t be comfortable ordering that part from AliExpress.
I did stop at an electrical wholesaler on my way to work tonight. The guy wasn’t an electrician but took down the specs, so we’ll have to see where that goes. Also have our purchaser at work going to look into it tomorrow. Might try giving our overhead crane guy a call too.

That's a wise move.

 

[Tom Kitta]

I'm always a bit leering about buying mission-critical electrical components from Aliexpress.

Why, all mission critical stuff comes from there, for newer lathes you get exact replacement. Fast shipment as well for most stuff - as it is "industrial" not some houseware. I get almost all my stuff there unless I see something on auction. For things like Mag switches there are no quality issues - at least I never had any - work very well, direct OEM replacement.

 

[Tom Kitta]

I would never buy electrical components from Aliexpress they have too many fake and fraudulent parts

Now I realize that contactors and circuit breakers are two different animals, but the same people produce fake contactors with contact points and gaps that will fail under the "rated" loads at even the most modest duty cycles

Circuits breakers I never got off ali - they probably don't even have our type at all. Unless you mean whole magnetic switches assembly that includes heaters, got many of these, they are a bit pricey but work great. Or you can go to BB and pay 3x for exact same thing, in exact same box, its up to you.

 

[LRSbm146]

Thanks @Tom Kitta if I can find one that has the same specs I’ll give it a try.

 

[Darren]

Theres a local company in Thunder Bay called MRO Parts. He has tons of various contactors and every other industrial electric parts/supplies. He buys out inventories from closing businesses. His name is Derek. Tell him I sent you. He advertises on Kijiji and Ebay. He will have what you need.

https://www.ebay.ca/sch/mroparts/m.html?_trkparms=folent%3Amroparts%7Cfolenttp%3A1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l71970

 

[LRSbm146]

Thanks @dfloen going to try a couple local places in the AM before ordering anything. There has to be one on a shelf near by.... just have to find it.

 

[LRSbm146]

Had a better look at the panel last night and came to terms with the fact I can’t do this where the machine is sitting. Can barely get a picture let alone get a screw driver and a hand in there at the same time. Hopefully picking up a pallet jack this weekend. Here’s a couple more pictures of the contactor

 

[John Conroy]

Before you condem the contactor try disconnecting the forward reverse switch. I had the switch go bad in mine with the same symptom. It's under the black sheet metal box at the left end of the switch bar under the lead screw and feed rod. Bottom left in the pic

 

[Tom Kitta]

Why don't you do (a bit unsafe) maneuver and push the contactors in and out with a screw driver few times. You may loosen them up. Also when under power see whatever you can start the operation by pushing the contactor. Make sure you do so knowing its under power and not touching by accident anything else.

Also make sure there simply is not too much current flowing somewhere. For example, I have a radial drill press - its rated at 208V 3ph on the motors. My voltage is 240V 3ph and the wild leg is 270v. The spindle motor safety does not like that at all and sometimes when cold it will multiple times not start the machine.

I assume the code is C16-G do you have brand name as well? I can look tomorrow through some junk I have aka auction finds and maybe I can find something.

 

[PeterT]

Same lathe as mine. Assume you have already eliminated any mechanical issues with the actuator block & switches. What can happen is the detents on FWD/REV lever side can slightly mismatch the ideal setting position of the actuator block. You have a bit of wiggle room loosening the set screw & centering the block. If the screw loosened & block slipped maybe squashed contactor? My lever detents looks suspiciously hand drilled, I had to clean them up a bit with ball end Dremel. But if someone was in there before you or it's for sure electrically fried, then disregard. Watching along where you source. I should probably buy some spares to ward off bad juju.

 

[LRSbm146]

I’ll try my best to respond to everyone. And thanks for your suggestions.
What led me to the forum was googling info on the power lever on the apron and the switch mentioned by @John Conroy. Ended up finding @PeterT ’s thread on that switch repair. My issue there was much more simple. The set screw that keeps the hex shaft indexed to the switch had backed off.
I’m the second owner of this lathe, it was in a basement, used for light work and minimal maintenance was done to it. Most of the screws and wires have never been touched since they were installed in early 80s Taiwan.

@Tom Kitta

C-16G-AC110​

Manufactured by TAIAN​

That’s from radwell.ca website. Was cut off in the picture above.
I’m not really comfortable poking around the panel too much when its energized but I did do as mentioned and manually push the button on the contactor.
When the machine is in the “locked on” state none of the controls on the front have any effect and the only way to stop the motor is to unplug it.

I came home from work after posting this and in that 12hrs the contactor released but was “stuck” for the day and a half before. This gave me the chance to try poking at the contactor.
Basically tried to recreate the problem.
With the machine plugged in.
Power switch OFF
emergency stop ON
Lever switch OFF
You can push the button on the contactor and run the motor.
In my welder brain it’s the same scenario.
Was also able to just try cycling it on and off in both directions and the issue only happened with forward rotation. So now with the forward rotation, when switching to off I was getting a 20-30 second count before it would stop and you could hear the contactor release.
After talking with @TorontoBuilder who knows a lot more about this stuff than I do. The plan is to pull the contactor and bring it to the local wholesalers. He did however send a link to a replacement off of Amazon for around $25
Thanks again for everyone’s help and suggestions. Hopefully this makes some sense. I’ll update when I pick up a new part.