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Machine enamels?

Arbutus

Arbutus

Super User
Premium Member
Hi - I'm looking for product suggestions for a hard oilproof enamel for castings and fabricated parts.

Previously I have used Rust-oleum Hammered spray enamels which have a 'crackle" finish, and the brush-on Rust Coat enamels from Home Hardware.

The Hammered finish looks lovely and is oil proof, but quite brittle so it chips off quite easily and difficult to touch up properly. The Rust Coat product seems to stain very easily from machine oils. I usually use a zinc spray primer over Bondo if the surface is pitted, or paint directly over degreased metal.

I noticed at the Deere store some tractor enamels. Are those suitable? Not a fan of Deere Green though!

Don
 
I think it was Versatile in Winnipeg who had a lovely dark red paint. Are they still around?
 
There has been a lot written about paints for machines on the forum, but I'm getting strange results with search sometimes. Not sure if its been resolved.

<edit, seems to be functioning again. This is page 2 of keyword = enamel as example>
canadianhobbymetalworkers.com

Search results for query: enamel

canadianhobbymetalworkers.com canadianhobbymetalworkers.com
 
I
jcdammeyer said:
What about powder coat. Isn't that somewhat oil resistant?
Click to expand...
Powder coat would be good in many situations. The issue there is that the oven destroys the Bondo ! and its an expensive job whether outsourced or purchasing the powder coat kit. I almost pulled the trigger on one before hearing about the Bondo problem.
 
Doggggboy said:
Japaning maybe?
Click to expand...
I blue some parts which adds a nice colour and some light corrosion protection, but blueing does not add any thickness to the surface, so every scratch is visible and it rubs off over time too. But as I understand it Japanning is a lacquer based finish. I wonder if it is durable enough for use in a toolroom? This is a link to Japanning for tools: Japanning finish for metal
 
Arbutus said:
I

Powder coat would be good in many situations. The issue there is that the oven destroys the Bondo ! and its an expensive job whether outsourced or purchasing the powder coat kit. I almost pulled the trigger on one before hearing about the Bondo problem.
Click to expand...
I'd go epoxy finish then. But that's expensive.
 
Endura is really tough stuff & has years of service in harsh conditions. They offer so many products from sealers to primers to top coats, best to just call them. Wear a proper respirator for the 2K catalyzed stuff.
www.endurapaint.com

EX-2C Topcoat - Endura Paint

Endura EX-2C Topcoat is a two component highly cross-linked, high performance polyurethane coating for protecting a wide range of surfaces. High gloss, color retention and outstanding resistance to chemicals, abrasion, and impacts, provide maximum protection and an impressive surface finish...
www.endurapaint.com www.endurapaint.com

I noticed they offer spray bombs in 1K & 2K which eliminates the spray setup. I assume they can formulate to any color like most places.
www.endurapaint.com

1K and 2K Aerosol Spray Cans - Endura Paint

The 1K and 2K Aerosol Spray Cans are excellent for touch ups and repairs or for painting small projects. The Endura 1K and 2K systems provide over [...]
www.endurapaint.com www.endurapaint.com

2K has the catalyst in the can which you activate when about to spray (like many competitor products) so may not be conducive to smaller jobs without waste. But I just noticed this chart which compares these kinds of paints to hardware store spray bombs.
 
Dulux has a paint advisor in Calgary for industrial paints. they recently started making their machine enamel again (after the loss of the plant 3 years ago). I really like the paint, and we did John Nielsen's bandsaw in it.

Was my go-to enamel for a lot of years.
 
Cloverdale Paint has a two part epoxy paint that is very durable, used it a lot when I did ornamental iron work. And for those drooling after green paint...JD changed the green color, so when I restored my Model B They offered me original green at $50 a litre. So I took a litre in to Cloverdale and they matched it in their computer and mixed me a gallon for $60 for part A and B ...still have a little bit left over.
 
I don’t know if they are still doing this, but back in the 80’s Hershey standardized on just using primer on equipment: enamel, urethane and epoxy chips, which is bad in food processing; oil based primer doesn’t chip - it will wear off from abrasion, but not chip. IIRC, it was an custom color MAB alkyd primer.
 
PeterT said:
Endura is really tough stuff & has years of service in harsh conditions. They offer so many products from sealers to primers to top coats, best to just call them. Wear a proper respirator for the 2K catalyzed stuff.
www.endurapaint.com

EX-2C Topcoat - Endura Paint

Endura EX-2C Topcoat is a two component highly cross-linked, high performance polyurethane coating for protecting a wide range of surfaces. High gloss, color retention and outstanding resistance to chemicals, abrasion, and impacts, provide maximum protection and an impressive surface finish...
www.endurapaint.com www.endurapaint.com

I noticed they offer spray bombs in 1K & 2K which eliminates the spray setup. I assume they can formulate to any color like most places.
www.endurapaint.com

1K and 2K Aerosol Spray Cans - Endura Paint

The 1K and 2K Aerosol Spray Cans are excellent for touch ups and repairs or for painting small projects. The Endura 1K and 2K systems provide over [...]
www.endurapaint.com www.endurapaint.com

2K has the catalyst in the can which you activate when about to spray (like many competitor products) so may not be conducive to smaller jobs without waste. But I just noticed this chart which compares these kinds of paints to hardware store spray bombs.
Click to expand...
If you want a top quality durable finish the Endura paint is hard to beat. I've used it on a fabric covered airplane and it is supringly flexible without cracking.
 
DPittman said:
If you want a top quality durable finish the Endura paint is hard to beat. I've used it on a fabric covered airplane and it is supringly flexible without cracking.
Click to expand...
Me too. A biplane. Don't remember the model as it was the father of a friend who put two wings at a time in my single car garage. I still have some tools and stuff with a thin layer of silver overspray.
 
DPittman said:
If you want a top quality durable finish the Endura paint is hard to beat. I've used it on a fabric covered airplane and it is supringly flexible without cracking.
Click to expand...
thats probably a good option for all machine finishing. I'll take a look at that and the Cloverdale Paint epoxy.

Good suggestions folks! Much appreciated.
 
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