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If you have a gauge that hasn't been messed with (as in steel brushed) you should see how it was made. Deep drawn and spinning both leave different makrs. The bezel is very likely to have been spun. For certain the ones for speedometers etc. were.
Part of the problem is that these were often very highly polished. No marks to read on the outside. 'Maybe' marks available on the inside of the originals though!
Unless you are fussy about looking original, I would just go buy a piece of brass bar the right size and turn it on a lathe. It would look great regardless of the authenticity. Easy peasy job on a lathe.
I had to put my sunglasses on to look at material cost. ~43 $/in (USD sans shipping etc.)
You might find some discount offcuts here & there but generally people know what material is worth. Sadly, 90% of it would turn into swarf.
I Googled 3D printed brass(-ish) alloys just a bit. There are people on the forum with CAD skills & that would offer ability to capture original details that would necessitate even more machining steps from the solid depending on how close to replica you required. But I have no idea how the 3DP price would work out. Or the quality of material - tolerances, finish-ability etc. I was going to get some tubular 3D printed nickel / stainless parts made last year but I found another way around it. I'm finding there so much hype its hard to know what to believe. But most sites you can upload a CAD model & they will do a quick quote. Once of us could prepare a simple generic model to get you a ballpark figure. I think a lot of these were cast or forged back in the day, maybe some even sheet stock & brazed.
I would suggest to the OP, that having a realistic idea what Brass is actually worth, may be a perspective changing event!
Lots of the folks that look for quotes pretty much get their work done for the shop's ability to have the chips converted back to cash, when dealing with brass and bronze alloys. The price got for the 'scrap'. pays for the work, after the customer pays for the stock!
Unless you are fussy about looking original, I would just go buy a piece of brass bar the right size and turn it on a lathe. It would look great regardless of the authenticity. Easy peasy job on a lathe.
I'm not fussy about originality. And yup, turning brass bar for the bezel only then doing the body in something less expensive is a way forward. Still learning.
I'm not fussy about originality. And yup, turning brass bar for the bezel only then doing the body in something less expensive is a way forward. Still learning.
Try W&O Supply, they sell marine pipe fittings in 70/30 and 90/10 copper alloys. They might have a solder cap and couplings that would be close in size, and save you a ton of time. Sil-Braze might be just the ticket as well.
If you are not fussy about the grade of brass and live on the coast they sometimes have old brass propeller shafts for sale at a little more than scrap price. Where I live you can look around the 3 scrap yards all you want and everything is for sale.