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Lathe pecking order 8-12"

Mcgyver

Ultra Member
What differentiates a tool room lathe from something like a SM 2000 series UtiLathe?

There is a DIN standard irrc, but more I think its just part of the machining vernacular so is somewhat subjective. No expense spared, everything as solid as it can be, belt driven spindle, extended range of speeds, very heavy for the size, often a matched cast iron stand on three points (no possibility of twist), and so on. Examples would be a Monarch 10ee, Hardinge HLV, Schaublin 135, Smart Brown 1024, Rivett 1020, Smart Brown 1024, Hendy T&G and so forth

On my 10ee for example, its a 10x20" lathe, 3 HP, 3000 pounds, later models had 10-4000 rpm, belt driven spindle, saddle so massive parts of the bed never see daylight, massive cast iron stand matched to the bed, built in pump oiler for bed ways and cross slide and so on. When I redid the feed/thread gearbox and apron, I probably replaced 30 or 40 rolling element bearings, just everything was done to the max. All quite different from a comparable SM, which I emphasize is a great and capable lathe, but just a not in the category.
 

Susquatch

Ultra Member
Administrator
Moderator
Premium Member
There is a DIN standard irrc, but more I think its just part of the machining vernacular so is somewhat subjective. No expense spared, everything as solid as it can be, belt driven spindle, extended range of speeds, very heavy for the size, often a matched cast iron stand on three points (no possibility of twist), and so on.

I never heard of a standard myself. In my world, a toolroom lathe was something only the best machinists were allowed to use. The rest of us peons could only watch from a distance. Typically used for prototyping and tool making only - never in production.

Had to cost 10x normal, weigh 10x normal, be back ordered for 10 years, came with 10x the options all standard, automatically cut to 10x the precision, was 10x as rigid (you could drop it from 10ft up while in use with no effect on the work), had 10x the number of adjustments, had 10x less wear, etc. etc. In other words, an order of magnitude difference between them and mortal machines.

Seriously, that really was the impression I had. Obviously not true, but I was never allowed close enough to read the name plates let alone touch them so who knows!

Basically, it's a designation reserved for the very best machines used only by the very best machinists with no deadlines and an unlimited budget. If there is a standard, I'd love to see it!
 

Dabbler

ersatz engineer
Some production lathes are built to a price. One monarch I used was a production machine -- a flimsy war machine with limited capabilities. Very few screw threads, etc.

One indicator is machine weight. The more the better. Another is a wide bed. Again wider is better. Look for a wide range of threads available They don't waste good gear boxes on poor lathes.

A great compromise for a hobby shop is the Modern Tool c0636, a 14" X40 with a great gearbox. 1750 lbs. Not too big, just a foot longer than a South Bend 9A. they can be had in moderate condition for under 3k$, and in prefect condition for about 4500$ Many hobbyists will outgrow a 9A, however. A PM 1236 is a good budget option, especially used. 1250 lbs. A used Standard Modern lathe is a great choice in the used Canadian market. great value, hard to outgrow. the 1340 is a nice size, and comes up in the used market.

I hope this all helps!
 

slow-poke

Ultra Member
Thanks for the great responses, if something good comes along I might jump. This is too far from me but based on the weight criteria alone would be a huge step up from what I have.


 

jcdammeyer

John
Premium Member
For those who are worried about worn out lathes, this is a good read
I have a SB Heavy 10L with the single gearbox lever. The bedways are worn but even so I was able to turn a custom ACME lead screw for my Gingery Lathe with it. Just tweak the cross slide in/out as the carriage traversed the worn sections.

I added a face plate and a MT3 adaptor to it and it already has a taper attachment and full set of 5C collets. And of course my Electronic Lead screw now allows me to do metric threading and all the turning and boring to a given set point.

Back in 2006 I paid $2500 for it which was probably way too much. I also added adjustable rubber bottomed feet to it and changed from the leather belt to a stitched multi ribbed rubber belt.

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I also swapped out the 1HP single phase for a 3 phase with VFD. At the moment I wouldn't upgrade to anything else.
 
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