King KC1022 Rocketronics ELS Pro installation

[djberta]

THis one seems decent too!

GitHub - kachurovskiy/nanoels: Electronic Lead Screw for metal lathe

Electronic Lead Screw for metal lathe. Contribute to kachurovskiy/nanoels development by creating an account on GitHub.

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I have the boards for the H5 one. They continue to work on it. So it’s not there yet. It’s one pcb an esp32, 2 chips, the touch screen and headers. Then the steppers and drivers that you need for every Els. I partially built the h2. Which uses a simple Arduino nano and does work for a single lead screw. The H5 is pretty much as automatic as most lathes can go. Touch screen, but uses a ps2 keyboard for input, but this is being worked on and should be full touch at some point. Just have no time for hobby projects at this time. To many house projects to work on before the snow.

 

[Proxule]

I have the boards for the H5 one. They continue to work on it. So it’s not there yet. It’s one pcb an esp32, 2 chips, the touch screen and headers. Then the steppers and drivers that you need for every Els. I partially built the h2. Which uses a simple Arduino nano and does work for a single lead screw. The H5 is pretty much as automatic as most lathes can go. Touch screen, but uses a ps2 keyboard for input, but this is being worked on and should be full touch at some point. Just have no time for hobby projects at this time. To many house projects to work on before the snow.

Nice run down, Much appreciated.

 

[DPittman]

Ive recently had it in my head again that I "need" to do an ELS conversions my 10x22 lathe but need to learn much more about the options before going ahead. Thanks for the info!

 

[gerritv]

All the options (except Clough42) need stepper on X and Z plus an encoder on the spindle. For the 1022 that has been solved by Wadeo, who did the entire lathe in CAD and also provided the modifications.
For X axis I would simplify his design a bit unless you have a CNC, it is a complex part. It can be simplified considerably.
I replaced my lead screw with a ball screw last year for better accuracy. Simple enough which only minor machining on the carriage apron although even that is avoidable if you take the risk of flipping the ball nut.

 

[jcdammeyer]

Mine is $150 now. Uses a standard PC type parallel port DB-25 to run to a Break Out Board. You can run with just the carriage like I do on my South Bend because I have a mechanical taper attachment on the South Bend.

On my Gingery Lathe I have both X and Z with motors and can do tapers. The menu has a preset set for say R8 or MT1..5.

Uses 1 Pulse Per Rev sensor which means you have to have a stable spindle speed which 99% of the lathes do. This limits minimum speed to about 50 RPM or so. OTOH, can handle spindle speeds above 3000 RPM. Also means it's not an electronic gearing system like most of the units out there that claim to be an ELS but really aren't by the original definition from when the first ELS projects started showing up.

Another drawback because of the 1 PPR and not electronic gearing is my ELS doesn't allow you to change the spindle speed between passes when threading because of the way acceleration up to threading speed is done. However you can do multi-start threads.

Really the nicest thing I like about mine is the numeric keypad for entering parameters, the 4 function keys that change for each menu and some of the direct motion or command keys. No scrolling through a list of options to select something. Had to do that on my first 3D printer. Hated it.

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