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KC-VS20-2 Rebuild/Assembly

darrin1200

Darrin
Well my new project from @PatrickT is in the shop. I cleared a location for it on a heavy wooden bench.

All the parts are bagged up by area, so it should be reasonably easy to re assemble from the ground up.

I have an appointment this morning, but I am going to start this after noon. One question about mounting.
I have a deep plastic tray (see picture) to put under it, for holding and catching coolant. I think it may be to deep though, about 2.5-3”. Can I just set it on the bench? Will that be stable enough? If I drill through the tray and bench to bolt it down, how do I stop the leaking and still keep it solid. A rubber gasket, would remove some stability would it it?

Get ready. I will be asking lots of questions.

IMG_0200.jpegIMG_0199.jpeg
 
The factory stand puts the mill at 32" above the floor. I find that too low, so I ended up sitting on a 1960's drafting stool while using the machine. It looks as if yours is even lower, your back will not be pleased.

The 2.5" tray will be fine, except at the front where the Y axis wheel is. Your left and right Y axis hand wheels will likely interfere as well, even it is just your hand on the handle. And, the cabinet to left of mill will interfere with rh end travel limits. Put a ring of sealant down as suggested before bolting it to the work bench.

To make your life easier, download https://grabcad.com/library/optimum-bf20-1, it is a very very detailed model of the BF20, which is the grand-daddy of the King KC-20VS. the step file imports just fine into Fusion. I have found it to be invaluable when I was adding DRO/scales, X axis power feed (stepper/belt driven) and 52lb (Princess Auto) strut lift to the Z axis. All of the dimensions and casting angles match closely.
 
Got a bit of a startIMG_0201.jpeg

Instead of the wooden blocks (temporary). I plan to make 4 standoffs, using 2” diameter steel rod. Make them 4” long, and tap both ends 3/4’to1” deep to take 1/2” threaded rod. The bottom will get a long 4-5 inch piece, to get through the table top, with a bit of silicone sealant to keep it from leaking. The top wil get a 2” piece to bolt the mill to.
Any thoughts?

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Sounds sturdy enough, can always change/improve it later if needed. Try to get them all the same length of course to avoid twisting the base casting. When I got mine, I ended up adding a 1/2" MDF layer between the metal pan and the cabinet for noise/vibration dampening. I think your setup will avoid that.
 
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