K o D's Korner

[KeeponDragon]

Noticed a few members just keep one thread going.I think that's a smart way to manage ones posts. And it keeps side convo's to one area lol

So I'll start with this...saw a youtuber testing out an impact anvil in a 1/4" driver gun.
I found a used impact driver on MP, and then sourced out the anvil.
Followed along with what they did, modifying the nose of the gun, and then taking down the thickness of the of the base of the anvil to match that of the original.
This sintered/forged material is cheeky to work with. But a few careful passes got er dealt with.
The gun will easily undo the lugnuts on the better 3/4's dodge dart.
It is loud though, from what I can assume is a higher rate of blows per minute.
I tried but wasn't able to keep the LED's working. The wires were damaged.
For 50 bux and an afternoon, I'm happy with the results.

 

[Tom O]

Noticed a few members just keep one thread going.I think that's a smart way to manage ones posts. And it keeps side convo's to one area lol

The only problem with that is looking back for information you don’t have a clue where it’s posted.

 

[KeeponDragon]

Guess that'll depend on how insightful the search function is on the board...
No way of doing things will be good enough for everyone.
Some wipe from front to back, some back to front...

 

[KeeponDragon]

How I got Crankenstein to do "the twist"

Distractions occur...I had started by just opening the shop door, and loading some scrap metal into the truck.
then I got to looking, and realized Tonka could be a tractor...
As the saying goes, it's not stupid if it works...right?
the shittiest part was relocating the insulating matt underneath...

 

[KeeponDragon]

This was after moving the power hammer...
I needed to get under Tonka to do some exhaust work. Even with a lift kit, it's too low to work under.
Two Kenworth frame crops as ramps for the win...

Got him up part way, then positioned the front ramps to get that end up.


I'll admit to be being a little insane, but I'm by no means stupid. The park brake was set, the pump sleeves under the ramps were chocked, and then I made sure to "anchor" him to the power hammer.


This was a little fun to set up the phone to capture the roll off...


Coming Down...
Off the ramps...bit of a stretch to get up into the cab lol

About an hour later, all the seams were welded up. No more exhaust leaks
A little bit of brainstorming, a lot of setup time, and some patience paid off.

 

[Janger]

Guess that'll depend on how insightful the search function is on the board...
No way of doing things will be good enough for everyone.
Some wipe from front to back, some back to front...

The search function seems pretty broken to me. We’ve got other stuff to fix first (email omg ). I like topic based posts as then we have a thread on a subject.

 

[KeeponDragon]

So this came back for warranty ... customer left it behind when he was told they're only covered for a year...
Now I have the beginnings of my "DIY break in alarm"

These horns generally are of decent quality. Where they fail is in the diaphragm...guys dump methyl hydrate in their systems, which then accelerates the dry out of the rubber parts.
I tell every driver in winter time, don't use methyl hydrate...
But why listen to us right, customer always knows what's better...

 

[Susquatch]

Now I have the beginnings of my "DIY break in alarm"

Might need to provide toilet paper at all break-in points.

 

[KeeponDragon]

the brown trail will make it easier to find anyone stupid enough to try breaking into my shop lol

 

[historicalarms]

That is precisely what I use in my shop a locomotive horn hooked to a trip rope & 120 psi of air....aint nobody staying in that building when the rope is pulled not even with ear plugs/muffs.

 

[KeeponDragon]

nice to know I'm not the only demented soul here lol

 

[DPittman]

nice to know I'm not the only demented soul here lol

Birds of a feather flock together